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Memoirs

OF AN

Arabian/ '
Princess.

HOOVE*? ;a'3TITUTION

on Wftf devolution, and Peace

^*.

MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

MEMOIRS OF

AN ARABIAN PRINCESS

An Autobiography

BY ,
EMILY RUETE

Nee Princess of Oman and Zanzibar

NEW YORK
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY

1888

» * *

*■ • .«. .». •

. . «v •.• * ■ :.. ,

\Af y

¥"\ 4-vf

233703

This version of " The Memoirs of an Arabian
^ Princess " is rendered from the German y in which
language the work originally appeared.

PEEFACE.

-M-

Nine years ago I made up my mind to write down
some sketches of my life for my children, who at
that time knew little more about my origin than that
I was an Arabian and a native of Zanzibar. Tired
out in body and in mind, I did not then expecj; to
live to be able to tell them, when they had grown up,
of the many changes in my life, and of the recollec-
tions of my youth. I therefore resolved to write my
memoirs for them, and this I have done for love and
devotion to my children, whose affection has been my
only solace for many long and anxious years, and
whose tender sympathy has kept me from despair in
my heaviest troubles.

Originally, therefore, my memoirs were not intended
for the general public, but for my dear children alone,
to whom I desired to bequeath the same, in token of
a fond mother's love, and I only yielded to the re-
peatedly expressed wishes of many friends in having
them published now.

VI PREFACE.

These pages were concluded years ago — with the
exception of the last chapter, which was added re-
cently, after a voyage I was permitted to undertake,
with my children, to my old home, Zanzibar, in the
course of last year.

May this book, then, go out into the world and gain
as many friends as it has always been my good fortune
to make for myself I

CONTENTS.

-♦»•-

chap. r A0B

I. BET IL MTONI ..••••!

II. BET IL WATOBO • • 15

III. A DAT AT BET IL SAHEL . . • .26

IV. OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATORO AND AT BET IL SAHKL 37

V. REMOVAL TO BET IL TANI , . . .43

VI. DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE . 48

VIL OUR MEALS ...... 57

VI1L BIRTH AND FIRST YEARS OF THE LIFE OF A PRINCE

AND PRINCESS . . . . .01

IX. SCHOOLING IN THE EAST .... 72

X. YEARLY OUTFIT. TOILET AND FASHION IN OUR HOUSE-
HOLD ...... 81

XI. A PLANTATION . . . . . .87

XII. MY father's VOYAGE .... 95

XIII. DEATH -NEWS ...... 104

XIV. OUR MOURNING . . . . . 110

XV. ABOUT SOME OF MTf BROTHERS AND SISTERS . .117

XVL WOMAN'S POSITION IN THE EAST . . . \*&

Vlll CONTENTS,

CHAP. PAGB

XVIL ARAB MATCHMAKING • • 1(33

XVin. AN ARAB LADY'S CALL • • . 171

XIX. THE AUDIENCE. INTERCOURSE BETWEEN GENTLEMEN 178

XX. THE LONG FAST . • . . . 183

XXI. THE LITTLE FESTIVAL .... 189

XXIL THE GREAT FESTIVAL . . ... 197

XXm. AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCBEMSCHEM • 202

XXIV. DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. POSSESSED

PEOPLE ...... 208

XXV. SLAVERY . 218

XXVI. MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION . 227

XXVII. KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU . . . 255

XXVIII. MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR . . . 2G4

XXIX. GREAT CHANGES . . . . . 270

XXX. SEJID BARGASCH IN LONDON . . • 274

XXXI. RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS * 282

CHAPTER I.

BET IL MTONI.

In Bet il Mtoni, the oldest of our palaces in the
island of Zanzibar, I was born, and there I lived until
the age of seven.

Bet il Mtoni, distant about five miles from the city
of Zanzibar, lies on the sea coast, surrounded by most
beautiful scenery, and quite hidden in a grove of palm
and mango trees, and other gigantic specimens of
tropical vegetation. The house of my birth is called
"Mtoni house," after the little river Mtoni, which
rises only a few miles inland, runs through the whole
palace into numerous fountains, and flows directly
behind the palace walls into the splendid and ani-
mated inlet which severs the island from the African
continent.

Only one large-sized courtyard divides the numerous
buildings of Bet il Mtoni, which, on account of their
heterogeneous styles, invented as occasion required,
with their numberless and puzzling passages, must
be called, on the whole, ugly rather than beautiful.

I do not distinctly remember now the arrangement
of the vast number of rooms these buildings contained,
but I can well recall to my mind the large bathing

4 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Our chief amusement in these family houses con-
sisted in taking long rides, as we had neither theatri-
cals nor concerts to entertain us. We frequently had
races in the country, which as frequently ended in an
accident. Once I nearly lost my life in such a race.
Afraid of being overtaken by my brother Hamdam, I
had paid no attention to a very large crooked cocoa
tree right in my way, and my forehead had almost
come in contact with its stem before I had even
noticed it. Quick as thought I threw myself
back, and in this way mercifully escaped a horrid
death.

The numerous flights of stairs were one of the pecu-
liarities of Bet il Mtoni, which were unusually steep,
and had huge steps, apparently made for a race of
giants. Straight up they went, without a turning or
a landing place ; one's only assistance a very primitive
kind of railing, which, being in constant use, needed
as constant repair. I remember even now how all
the people living in our wing of the house were
frightened one morning when both railings of our
stone staircase were found to be missing, and I am
yet surprised that of the many persons passing up
and down no one came to grief.

Statistics being a thing quite unknown in Zanzibar,
nobody of course could tell how many people actually
lived in our house. I think I do not exaggerate, how-
ever, in estimating the total number of inhabitants at
Bet il Mtoni at one thousand. To understand this it
must be remembered that great numbers of servants
are employed in the East by all people of quality aud
by those who want to appear rich. At least an equal

BET IL MTONI. 8

Each bath-room was allotted to a special set of
occupants ; woe to the person who did not keep within
her proper bounds ! A very rigorous spirit of caste
ruled at Bet il Mtoni, which was observed by high
and low alike.

Tall orange trees, as high as the largest cherry trees
in these parts, throve in dense rows in front of the
bath-houses ; their branches often sheltered us while
young, when we were afraid of punishment from our
excessively strict teacher.

Man and beast lived amicably together in the large
courtyard, without being in the least inconvenienced
by each other's presence — peacocks, gazelles, guinea-
fowls, flamingoes, geese, ducks, and ostriches roamed
about in perfect liberty, and were petted and fed by
old and young. We children vastly enjoyed hunting
out the many eggs that lay about here and there,
especially the large ostrich eggs, and to hand them
over to the head cook, who would reward us with
presents of sweetmeats.

Twice a day, early in the morning and in the even-
ing, all children above five years of age had riding
lessons in this court from one of the eunuchs, during
which the members of our little zoological garden
roamed about as freely as ever. When we had made
sufficient progress in this art, we were each mounted
by our father. The boys got permission to choose a
horse from the royal stud, while we girls received
large white donkeys from Mesket, which are often
much more expensive than horses. Of course we
were provided with a complete harness for these
handsome beasts at the same time.

4 iiEiiuina of an .vnvniAS mix cess.

Our chief amusement in these family houses con-
listed in taking long rides, as we hud ueither theatri-
cals nor concerts to ^murrain us. We frequently had
races in the country, which as frequently ended in an
accident. Once I uearlv lost mv life in such a race.
Afraid of being overtaken by my brother Hamdam, I
had paid no attention to a yerv lar^o erookud cocoa
tree rkrht in mv wav, and mv forehead had almost
come in conraet with it3 stem before I had even
noticed it. Quick as thought I threw myself
back, and in this way mercifully escaped a horrid
death.

The numerous dights of stairs were one of tue pecu-
liarities of Bet ii Mtoni, which were unusuaiiv steer,
and had huge steps, apparently made for a race of
giants. Straight up they went, without a turning or
a landing place ; one's only assistance a very primitive
kind of railing, which, being in constant use, needed
as constant repair. I remember even now how all
the people living in our wing of the house were
frightened one morning when both raiiings of our
stone staircase were found to be missing, and I am
yet surprised that of the many persons passing up
and down no one came to grief.

Statistics being a thing quite unknown in Zanzibar,
nobody of course could tell how many people actually
lived in our house. I think I do not exaggerate, how-
ever, in estimating the total number of inhabitants at
Bet il Mtoni at one thousand. To understand this it
must be remembered that great numbers of servants
are employed in the East by all people of quality and
by those who want to appear rich. At least an equal

BET IL MTONI. O

~ *

number of persons were lodged in my father's city
palace, Bet il Sahel, or " Strandhouse."

In the wing nearest to the sea at Bet il Mtoni were
the apartments of my father, Sejid Said, Imam of
Mesket and Sultan of Zanzibar, and those of his prin-
cipal wife, who was a distant relation of his. He
resided, however, only four days a week in the country
with us, and the remainder he spent in his city palace,
Bet il Sahel. The title " Imam" is a religious dignity,
which is but rarely conferred on a sovereign. Origi-
nally we owe this distinction to our great-grandfather
" Ahmed" ; the title has since that time been hereditary
in our family, and every member of it is authorized
to append it to his signature.

Being one of his younger children I only remember
my father with his venerable, snow-white beard. He
was above middle height, his features had a very
fascinating and engaging expression, and his whole
appearance commanded respect. In spite of his war-
like propensities and his delight in conquest, he was
a model father and sovereign. Justice he valued as
the highest of all things, and in this respect he knew
no difference of person, not even between one of his
own sons and the lowest slave. He humbled himself
before God ; nor was he self-conceited and proud like
so many high-born people. It happened, and' not
rarely either, that he would ride over by himself to
the wedding of a simple slave, who had gained his
regard by many years of loyal service, to offer his
congratulations to the young couple in person. He
always used to call me, " Old woman," as I was very
fond of cold milk soup (Arab, " farni "), which is

233703

This version of " The Memoirs of an Arabian
Princess " is rendered from the German, in which
language the work originally appeared.

* « ^

m *.

PEEFACE.

-M-

VI PREFACE.

May this book, then, go out into the world and gain
as many friends as it has always been my good fortune
to make for myself I

. »

CONTENTS.

-•"•-

CHAP. TAOK

I. BET IL MTONI ...... 1

II. BET IL WATORO . . • 15

in. A DAY AT BET IL SAHEL . . • .26

IV. OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATORO AND AT BET IL SAHKL 37

V. REMOVAL TO BET IL TANI . . . .43

VI. DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE ... 48

VIL OUR MEALS ...... 57

VIIL BIRTH AND FIRST YEARS OF THE LIFE OF A PRINCE

AND PRINCESS . . . . Gl

IX. SCHOOLING IN THE EAST .... 72

X. YEARLY OUTFIT. TOILET AND FASHION IN OUR HOUSE-
HOLD ...... 81

XI. A PLANTATION . . . . . .87

XIL MY FATHER'S VOYAGE , 95

XIII. DEATH -NEWS ...... 104

XIV. OUR MOURNING . . . . . 110

XV. ABOUT SOME OF MY. BROTHERS AND SISTERS . .117

XVL WOMAN'S POSITION IN THE EAST . . . 1A&

Vlll CONTENTS,

CHAP. PAGE

XVH. ARAB MATCHMAKING • • 103

XVIII. AN ARAB LADY'S CALL • . 171

XIX. THE AUDIENCE. INTERCOURSE BETWEEN GENTLEMEN 178

XX. THE LONG FAST . . . ♦ . 183

XXI. THE LITTLE FESTIVAL .... 189

XXII. THE GREAT FESTIVAL . . ... 197

XXm. AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCBEMSCHEM • 202

XXIV. DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. POSSESSED

PEOPLE ...... 208

XXV. SLAVERY . . . 218

XXVI. MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION . 227

XXVII. KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU . . . 255

XXVm. MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR . . . 2G4

XXIX. GREAT CHANGES ..... 270

XXX. SEJID BARGASCH IN LONDON • . • 274

XXXI. RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS * 282

CHAPTER I.

BET IL MTONI.

In Bet il Mtoni, the oldest of our palaces in the
island of Zanzibar, I was born, and there I lived until
the age of seven.

I do not distinctly remember now the arrangement
of the vast number of rooms these buildings contained,
but I can well recall to my mind the large bathing

2 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

accommodation at Bet il Mtoni. There were a dozen
baths in one row at the extreme end of the courtyard,
and in rainy weather these popular resorts could only
be reached under the shelter of an umbrella. Apart
from them lay what was called the " Persian " bath,
a Turkish steam bath, whose ingenious and tasteful
architecture was unequalled in Zanzibar.

Each bathing house contained two baths, five yards
long by four yards wide, and just deep enough to let
the water come up to the breast of a grown-up person.

These refreshing baths were a favourite resort with
all people in the house ; most of them stayed in them
for many hours every day, to pray, sleep, work, and
read there, even to take their meals ; and from four
o'clock in the morning till midnight they were never
once empty.

On entering these bath-houses, which are all alike,
two raised resting-places may be observed to the right
and left for prayer and repose, which are covered with
the finest coloured mats. Every other article of
luxury, such as carpets, was banished from these
rooms. Every Muslim (Mahometan) requires a
separate and perfectly clean dress for prayers, in-
tended only for this purpose, and which ought to be
qjiite white. Of course this rather inconvenient re-
ligious precept is only followed by extremely devout
persons.

The places of repose are separated by narrow
arcades from the bath-rooms, which are all in the
open flir; two arched bridges of stone, with steps
gradually rising, lead again to other rooms lying
apart.

BET IL MTONI. 3

Tall orange trees, as high as the largest cherry trees
in these parts, throve in dense rows in front of the
bath-houses ; their branches often sheltered us while
young, when we \yere afraid of punishment from our
excessively strict teacher.

4 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Our chief amusement in these family houses con-
sisted in taking long rides, as we had neither theatri-
cals nor concerts to entertain us. We frequently had
races in the country, which as frequently ended in an
accident. Once I nearly lost my life in such a race.
Afraid of heing overtaken by my brother Hamdam, I
had paid no attention to a very largo crooked cocoa
tree right in my way, and my forehead had almost
come in contact with its stem before I had even
noticed it. Quick as thought I threw myself
back, and in this way mercifully escaped a horrid
death.

Statistics being a thing quite unknown in Zanzibar,
nobody of course could tell how many people actually
lived in our house. I think I do not exaggerate, how-
ever, in estimating the total number of inhabitants at
Bet il Mtoni at one thousand. To understand this it
must bo remembered that great numbers of servants
are employed in the East by all people of quality and
by those who want to appear rich. At least an equal

BET IL MTONI. 5

number of persons were lodged in my father's city
palace, Bet il Sahel, or " Strandhouse."

Being one of his younger children I only remember
my father with his venerable, snow-white beard. He
was above middle height, his features had a very
fascinating and engaging expression, and his whole
appearance commanded respect. In spite of his war-
like propensities and his delight in conquest, he was
a model father and sovereign. Justice ho valued as
the highest of all things, and in this respect he knew
no difference of person, not even between one of his
own sons and the lowest slave. He humbled himself
before God ; nor was he self-conceited and proud like
so many high-born people. It happened, and not
rarely either, that he would ride over by himself to
the wedding of a simple slave, who had gained his
regard by many years of loyal service, to offer his
congratulations to the young couple in person. He
always used to call me, " Old woman," as I was very
fond of cold milk soup (Arab, " farni "), which is

6 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

the favourite meal of all our old and toothless
people.

My mother was a Circassian by birth, who in early
youth had been toru away from her home. Her father
had been a farmer, and she had always lived peace-
fully with her parents and her little brother and
sister. War broke out suddenly, and the country was
overrun by marauding bands ; on their approach the
family fled into an underground place, as my mother
called it — she probably meant a cellar, which is not
known in Zanzibar. Their place of refuge was, how-
ever, invaded by a merciless horde, the parents were
slain, and the children carried off by three mounted
Arnauts. One of these, with her elder brother, soon
disappeared out of sight; the other two, with my
mother and her little sister, three years old, crying
bitterly for her mother, kept together until evening,
when they too parted, and my mother never heard
any more of the lost ones ap long as she lived.

She came into my father's possession when quite a
child, probably at the tender age of seven or eight
years, as she cast her first tooth in our house. She
was at once adopted as playmate by two of my sisters,
her own age, with whom she was educated and brought
up. Together with them she learnt to read, which
raised her a good deal above her equals, who, as a
rule, became members of our family at the age of six-
teen or eighteen years, or older still, when they had
outgrown whatever taste they might once have had
for schooling. She could scarcely be called pretty,
but she was tall and shapely, had black eyes, and
hair down to her knees. Of a very gentle disposition,

BET IL MTONI. 7

her greatest pleasure consisted in assisting other
people, in looking after and nursing any sick per-
son in the house ; and I well remember her going
. about with her books from one patient to another,
reading prayers to them.

She was in great favour with my father, who never
refused her anything, though she interceded mostly
for others, and, when she came to see him, he always
rose to meet her half-way — a distinction he conferred
but very rarely. She was as kind and pious as she
was modest, and in all her dealings frank and open.
She had had another daughter besides myself, who
had died quite young. Her mental powers were not
great, but she was very clever at needlework. She
has always been a tender and loving mother to me,
but this did not hinder her from punishing me
severely when she deemed it necessary.

She had many friends at Bet il Mtoni, which is
rarely to be met with in an Arab harem. She had
the most unshaken and firmest trust in God. When I
was about five years old I remember a fire breaking
out in the stables close by, one night while my father
was at his city residence. A false alarm spread over
the house that we, too, were in imminent danger ; upon
which the good woman hastened to take me on one
arm, and her big Ktiran (we pronounce the word thus)
on the other, and hurried into the open air. On the
rest of her possessions she set no value in this hour
of danger.

My father had only one Horme (plural Harino), or
legitimate wife, at my time, as far as I recollect ; his
other wives, or Sarari (singular Surie), numbering

18 ' MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

times to shake hands with all our friends, of whom,
however, we met but few in their rooms. My mother
resolved, therefore, to say good-bye to them after
prayers, which all had to attend.

The cutter lay off the Bendjle ready to receive us
at 7 p.m. ; it was a fine big boat with a crew of
fourteen oarsmen, with an awning over the stern,
carrying our standard — a plain, blood-red flag. The
^ passenger seats were covered with pretty silk cushions
for ten to twelve persons.

Old Djohar, a trusty eunuch, came to report every-
thing ready to my father, who was watching our
departure from the Bendjle, and took the helm ; he
was to convey us to our new destination in company
with another eunuch. All our friends in tears accom-
panied us as far as the house door, and their cries,
" Weda, weda " (farewell, farewell), ring in my ears to
this very day.

There was no landing pier on the flat shore, and we
had to get into the boat either by being carried in a
chair or by walking through the dry sand and over a
plank ; my mother got into the cutter in this manner,
attended on both sides by some eunuchs, while another
carried me in his arms and placed me in the stern
sheets. The light of the coloured hanging-lanterns in
. the boat, together with the glittering stars above, cast
a magic brightness over the sea, and the oarsmen
pulled away, keeping time by the tune of a melan-
choly Arab song.

We kept close in shore, and I was soon fast asleep
in my mother's lap. I was suddenly and rather
roughly roused up by a number of persons calling out

BET IL MTONI. 9

all, it had not sufficient power to deprive the residents
at Bet il Mtoni of all charms of life. My brokers
and sisters, of all ages, were supposed to go every day
and wish her good morning; but rarely were her
vanity and pride gratified by more than one visitor
at the appointed time — before her breakfast hour — so
greatly was she disliked by us all.

My older brothers and sisters lived at Bet il
Mtoni ; some of them, Schecha and Zuene, for
instance, were old enough to have Been my grand-
mothers. The latter had a son, Ali bin Suut, whose
beard had turned grey already when I knew him first ;
she was a widow, and had found a shelter in her
paternal home after the death of her husband.

It is generally believed by Europeans that with us
the sons are greatly preferred to the daughters ; but
such w&s not the case in our 'family. I know not a
single instance in which the son was more liked by
father or mother, merely because he happened to be
a son. Though the law ib some cases favours sons
more than daughters, and grants them larger privi-
leges — as, for instance, in the division of inheritances —
yet the children are everywhere loved and treated
alike. It is, of course, but natural, and only human,
that in the South, as well as all over the world,
one child, whether boy or girl, is secretly more beloved
by his parents than the other, but this is never shown
openly. It was thus with our father also; for the
two of his children he loved best were not sons, but
daughters, Scharife and Chole. When I was nine
years old I was once wounded in the side by an

arrow, by my wild brother Hamdam, who was about
2

10 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

my own age ; fortunately the hurt was not a severe
one. As soon as my father heard of this affair, he
said to me : "Salme, go and call Hamdam." And the
boy was so terribly scolded for his misbehaviour, that
he remembered it for a long time after. This in-
stance proves how greatly people are often mis-
informed on foreign matters. It stands to reason
that a good deal depends everywhere upon the children
themselves, and it would wrong good children to treat
them in the same way as bad ones.

The Bendjle was the prettiest spot at Bet il Mtoni.
It was an immense round tower in front of the main
building, and close to the sea, large enough for a
ball, had such a thing been known in our country.
It looked very much like a gigantic merry-go-round,
with a vaulted ceiling in the same style as the building.
The entire framework, the floor, railing, and the tent-
like ceiling were constructed of painted wood. My
dear father used to walk up and down in this place
for hours and hours together, plunged in deep
thought, and with head bent down. A bullet which
he received in battle, and had settled in the hip,
caused him frequent pain, and made him limp a little.

Some dozens of cane chairs were placed all about
this lofty balcony, and a large telescope was put up
for general use. The view from this raised " Bendjle "
was surpassingly beautiful. Several times during
the day my father, Azze bint Sef, and all his grown-
up children would take their coffee here. Any one
wishing to speak to my father privately would be
sure of finding him here alone for several hours in
the day.

BET IL MTONI. 11

11 Rahmdni, a man-of-war, was anchored off the
Bendjle all the year round, whence they fired the signals
in the fasting season; the crews required for the
many rowing boats had their quarters there. A tall
flagstaff was erected on the shore to signal whenever
these boats and crews were wanted.

Both at Bet il Mtoni and at Bet il Sahel the meals
were cooked in the Arab as well as in the Persian and
Turkish manner. People of all races lived in these
two houses — the races of various beauty. The slaves
were dressed in SUahely style, but we were permitted
to appear in Arab fashion alone. Any newly-arrived
Circassian or Abyssinian woman had to exchange her
ample robes and fantastic attire within three days for
-the Arab costume provided for her.

Bonnets and gloves are no less indispensable
articles of toilet to any Western lady or woman of
respectability than jewellery is to us. Trinkets are
considered so necessary, that even beggar-women
may be seen plying their trade decked out in them.
My father had special treasure chambers in both his
houses at Zanzibar, and in his palace at Mesket, in
Oman, amply stocked with sovereigns and gold pieces
of Spanish and other coinage; besides these,
however, they contained large assortments of
feminine adornments, from the simplest article to the
diamond-set crown, expressly procured to serve as
presents. Each time an increase to the family had
taken place, either by the purchase of a Sarari, or by
the freqtient births of princes or princesses, the
doors of these chambers were opened, to take out
presents for the new arrival according to its rank and

12 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

station. On the seventh day after the birth of a child
my father used to' pay a visit to the infant and its
mother to present some article of jewellery to the
baby. In the same way a new Surie received at onco
the necessary jewels, and had her servants assigned
to her by the chief eunuch.

Though himself very simple in all his ways, my
father was very particular about all people around
him. No one was permitted to appear before him
except in full dress, and this was the rule with his
children as well as with the youngest eunuch. The
little girls used to wear their hair in thin plaits, as
many as twenty sometimes, with the* ends collected
together, and a heavy gold ornament, set with precious
stones, suspended from their centre. Sometimes a
gold coin was attached to each plait, which looked
much prettier. These ornaments were taken off at
bedtime, and re-attached in the morning. The girls
had their hair dressed in this pony fashion up to the
period when they had to go about veiled. Once I ran
off to my father without these ornaments in my hair-
dress, to get some of the French sweetmeats he used
to give us every morning. Instead of obtaining these,
however, I was promptly sent back in charge of a
servant — I had appeared before him not properly
dressed ; but I took good care never again to commit
the same offence.

My sister Zejane and my stepmother Medine were
my mother's most intimate friends. Zejane was
the daughter of an Abyssinian ; Medine, a Circassian,
who came from the same part of the country as my
mother, like Sara, another stepmother of mine

BET Hi MTONI. " 13

Sara's two children were my brother Madjid and my
sister Chadudj, of whom the former was the junior by
some years. My mother and Sara had solemnly
promised each other, that whoever survived the other
should replace her with her children. Chadudj and
Madjid, however, were nearly full-grown when Sara
died, and they did not need my mother's help as long
as they lived in their paternal home. It was the
custom in our family for boys up to the age of eighteen
or twenty to remain with their mothers in our father's
house, and to submit to the general house rules. At
about this stage of life each prince was pronounced
of age, though this depended entirely upon his
behaviour. When of age he was numbered amongst
the grown-up people — an honour which was always
eagerly coveted. A separate residence was then
assigned to him, together with horses, servants, and
everything else he required, also an adequate monthly
allowance.

My brother Madjid had now obtained this honour,
more on account of his conduct than of his age. He
was very modest, and won all hearts by his kind and
gentle manners. Not a week passed but he rode over
from the city (he lived at Bet il Sahel with his
mother) to see us, and he always liked to play with
me, though he was my senior by twelve years.

He came over perfectly delighted one day to tell
my mother that he had just been pronounced of age,
and that, being his own master now, he had received
a house of his own. He insisted at the same time
upon our removing to his new place to live with him,
and he was joined in this request by Chadudj. My

14 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

mother begged him to consider that she could not
well accede to his wishes without first consulting my
father, but promised to inform him of the result as
soon as she had done so. On her part she declared
herself willing to live with him as long as it suited
both himself and his sister. Madjid at once offered
to save her all trouble by speaking himself to my
father, and next day, indeed, he informed us that the
latter had given his consent Our removal being thus
settled, it was arranged, after a long consultation, that
we were to take up our new residence with him in the
course of a few days, after he had completed all
necessary arrangements at his place.

CHAPTER IL

BET IL WAT0B0.

My mother did not find it easy to reconcile herself to
the prospect of her impending removal. She was
very much attached to Bet il Mtoni, where she had
lived from her childhood; she was not fond of any
change, and was very much afflicted by the separation
from Zejane and from my stepmother Medine. She
told me, however, afterwards that her own scruples
had been outweighed by the consideration of making
herself useful to the children of her dear departed
friend.

As soon as it became known that she had decided
to remove to town, every person she met cried out,
" Have you lost all trust in us, Djilfidan, that you are
going to leave us for ever ? " " Oh, my friends," she
replied, " I do not leave you of my own free will, but
it is my fate to part from you ! "

I am sure a good many people will shake their
heads with a feeling of pity on reading the word " fate."
Maybe such persons have hitherto shut their eyes and
their ears to the will of God, and have spurned to take
any notice of it, laying a far greater stress upon what
they call chance. It should be borne in mind, how-

16 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

ever, that I once was a Mahometan, and grew up as
such. I am, moreover, speaking of Arab life, of an
Arab home, and there are two things above all quite
unknown in a real Arab house, the word " chance "
and materialism. The Mahometan not only believes
in God as his Creator and Preserver, but he is con-
vinced at all times of His presence, and he feels like-
wise sure that not his own will, but the will of the
Lord is done in little things as well as in great.

It took us some days to complete all our arrange-
ments, and then we waited for Madjid's return, who was
to arrange about our journey. I had had one brother
and two sisters, all nearly of my own age, as com-
panions at Bet il Mtoni, and I was very sorry to leave
them, little Ealub in particular, who had been greatly
attached to me ; on the other hand, I was right glad of
the opportunity of getting away from our excessively
severe teacher.

Our large room looked something like a beehive
during the parting scenes with so ynany friends and
acquaintances ; everybody brought a parting gift in
proportion to his means and affection. This is a cus-
tom very much in use with us, for no Arab will deny
himself the pleasure of presenting a parting gift to his
friend, even if hehas nothingto give but themerest trifle.
I remember a case in point which occurred in my early
youth. We had made an excursion from Bet il Mtoni
to one of our estates, and were just about to step into
our boats to return home, when I felt some one tugging
at my dress from behind. Turning round, I saw a
very old negro woman, who handed me a parcel,
wrapped in plantain leaves, with the words, " This

BET IL WATORO. 17

trifle is my parting gift to you, bibijangu (my mis-
tress), it is the first ripe fruit of my garden." Undoing
the leaves, I found they enclosed — one cob of newly-
gathered Indian corn. I did not know the poor old
woman at all, but afterwards she proved to have been
an old protegee of my mother's.

Madjid arrived at last with the news that the cap-
tain of the Rahmdni had been ordered to send a ^
cutter for us next evening, and another boat for our
luggage and for the servants who were to accompany
us to the city.

My father happened to be at Bet il Mtoni at the
time, and next day my mother went up with me to bid
him good-bye.. We found him walking up and down
the Bendjle aq usual, and he came at once to meet us
as soon as he saw us. My parents began talking at
once about our journey, and, to stop the many questions
with which I continually interrupted them, one of the
attending eunuchs was ordered to bring me sweets and
sherbet. I was of course very curious to know some-
thing about our new home and about life in town. I
had only once been there for a very short time, and
had not even seen all my brothers and sisters, nor my
numerous stepmothers who lived there. \

We then went to the apartments of my august step-
mother to take leave of her. Azze bint Sef was
graciously pleased to dismiss us standing, which with
her was a great honour, as she always remained
seated when she received people. We were also per-
mitted to kiss her hand before turning our back upon
her for ever.

We had still to run up and downstairs a good many

18 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

times to shake hands with all our friends, of whom,
however, we met but few in their rooms. My mother
resolved, therefore, to say good-bye to them after
prayers, which all had to attend.

The cutter lay off the Bendjle ready to receive us

at 7 p.m. ; it was a fine big boat with a crew of

fourteen oarsmen, with an awning over the stem,

^carrying our standard — a plain, blood-red flag. The

^ passenger seats were covered with pretty silk cushions

for ten to twelve persons.

We kept close in shore, and I was soon fast asleep
in my mother's lap. I was suddenly and rather
roughly roused up by a number of persons calling out

BET IL WATORO. 19

my name ; very much frightened and half asleep yet,
I learned that we had arrived at our journey's end.
We were just x below the lighted-up windows of Bet il
Sahel, which were occupied by crowds of people — they
^ were my stepmothers and sisters with their mothers,
most of whom I had never seen before, and who were
curious to have a look at me. My mother told me
they had commenced crying out my name as soon as
•the boat had come in sight.

On landing, I was received by my young brothers
in a very lively manner. They wanted us to go with
them at once, but my mother had to decline, as she
did not wish to keep Chadudj waiting, who was
watching our arrival from her house. I was very sorry
that I was not allowed to join my young relations at
once, but my mother remained firm, and I was con-
soled by the promise that we were to spend a day at
Bet il Sahel as soon as my father had returned to it.

We therefore passed on to get to Madjid's residence,
Bet il Watoro, which was close by, and from which
there was also a splendid view over the sea. Chadudj
received us at the bottom of the staircase and bid us
heartily welcome : she conducted us to our rooms, and
her chief eunuch, Eman, brought in some refresh-
ments. Madjid was below in his reception room with
his friends, waiting for permission to come up and
join us. How delighted he was, good, noble fellow, to
welcome us in his new home !

Our own room was of but middling size, and looked
out on the mosque close by. It was furnished like all
Arab apartments, and there was nothing wanting to
our comfort. As the dresses worn by day are not

20 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

taken off at night, and all Arabs of standing are
accustomed to the strictest cleanliness, there is" no
need for separate bedrooms, and the room allotted to
us quite sufficed for our wants.

Eich and distinguished people generally furnish
their houses in the following style: Persian carpets
or very fine and soft matting cover the floors ; tho
thick, whitewashed walls are divided from floor to
ceiling into several partitions by deep recesses ; these
recesses are again subdivided by shelves of wood,
painted green, forming a kind of open cabinet. Upon
these shelves are symmetrically ranged the choicest
and most expensive objects of glass and china. To
an Arab nothing can be too costly to decorate these
shelves ; a handsome cut glass, a plate beautifully
' painted, or an elegant and tasteful jug, may cost any
price ; if they look pretty they are sure to be pur-
chased.

The bare and narrow walls between the recesses are
carefully concealed by large mirrors reaching from
the low divans to the ceiling ; these mirrors are gene-
rally expressly ordered from Europe. As a rule,
pictures are prohibited to a Mahometan as imitations
of Divine creation : of late, however, they are tolerated
now and then. Clocks, again, are in great favour
everywhere,- and some houses contain quite a rich
collection of them; they are placed above and in
pairs on each side of the mirrors. The walls of the
gentlemen's rooms are decorated with costly weapons
from Arabia, Persia, and Turkey, and this is done by
every Arab according to his means.

A large curtained bed of rosewood, of Indian work-

BET IL WATOBO. 21

manship, very prettily carved all over, is placed in
one corner of the room. Arab beds are very high,
and to get into them it is necessary to mount upon a
chair or to call in the assistance of a chambermaid.
The empty space beneath is often occupied by the
children's or sick nurse.

Tables are rarely seen, and only in the houses of
people of high station, but there are chairs of all
kinds and colours. Wardrobes, chests of drawers,
and the like*are not in use; we had, however, a chest
or trunk with two or three drawers, and a secret
drawer to put away money and jewellery.

Windows and doors stand open all the year during
the day ; they are only shut for a short time during
the rainy season. In our country we do not at all
understand what " draught " means.

At first I did not like our new residence at all ; I
missed my young brothers aiyl sisters very much, and
Bet il Watoro appeared to me very small compared to
gigantic Bet il Mtoni. I was by no means pleased
that I was to stay here for ever. I could not sail my
boats here, unless I chose to do so in a washtub, as
there was no river near, and all water had to be
fetched from a well outside the house. My' dear
mother, whose greatest pleasure was to give away all
she possessed, wanted me to send my beautiful sail-
ing boats to my brothers at Bet il Mtoni, but I could
not make up my mind to do that at once. For the
first time in my life I felt indeed very unhappy and
downcast.

My mother, on the other hand, soon reconciled her-
self to her new duties, and was so busily engaged all

22 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

day in directing and arranging things in company
with Chadudj, that she did not even find time to look
after me. Dear Madjid alone took some trouble about
me, and showed me over the house from top to
bottom ; but nothing could please me, I was per-
fectly indifferent to everything, and I urged my
mother incessantly to return at once to Bet il Mtoni
and to my dear relations there. This could not be
done, of course, and the less so as she really proved a
great help to my brother and sister.

Fortunately I soon discovered Madjid to be a great-
friend of all kinds of live beasts, of which he had quite
a collection, amongst others any number of white
rabbits, which spoiled the new house completely,
much to the annoyance of my mother and sister.
He also kept a great many fighting cocks of all
countries ; I have never again seen such a fine col-
lection together, not even in zoological gardens.

I was soon his constant companion on his visit to his
favourites, and he was kind enough to let me share in
all his amusements. Before long I owned a number
of fighting cocks myself, and I felt not quite so lonely
now at Bet il Watoro. We inspected our champions
nearly every day, which were led up and down by
servants. A cockfight is, indeed, by no means an un-
interesting affair — it is very entertaining, as it takes
up the entire attention of the spgetator, and often it
is intensely amusing.

Afterwards he gave me fencing lessons with swords,
daggers, and lances, and taught me to practise with
gun and pistol when we went into the country. In
fact he made quite an amazon of me, greatly to the

x BET IL WAtORO. 23

distress of my dear mother, who declined to learn
anything about fencing and shooting. All this, of
course, did not improve my taste for fancy needle-
work, and I preferred much to handle all kinds of
weapons to sitting quietly at the bobbin-machine for
hours together.

The perfect liberty I enjoyed in all these pastimes —
for as yet a new teacher had not been found for me
— made me soon feel in better spirits, and my objec-
tion to lonely Bet il Watoro soon vanished. Ner did
I neglect riding, and, by Madjid's orders, Mesrur the
eunuch improved me in horsemanship.

My mother being too busily employed in the house
to have much spare time for me, I got soon attached
to a clever Abyssinian woman, who grew very fond of
me, and who taught me her language; but I have long
since forgotten all I learned from her.

A lively intercourse was kept up with Bej; il Mtoni,
and whenever we went there we were always received
most affectionately by all our friends. The communi-
cation between the two places was kept up by slaves
carrying verbal messages to and fro. Eastern people
are not very fond of letter- writing, even when able to
write. Every person of note or wealth keeps some
slaves who are employed as runners only. They must
travel a certain number of miles daily, but they are
well treated otherwise, and special care is taken of
them. They are trusted with the most confidential
messages. Upon their honesty and secrecy depends
frequently their master's welfare, and even more ! It
is by no means a rare occurrence that the most inti-
mate relations between people have been severed and

24 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

destroyed for ever by an act of» vengeance on the part
of these messengers. In spite of this great drawback,
people cannot be induced to learn to write, and to
make themselves independent for life. The saying,
' ' Leave the world to take its course," is nowhere more
true than with us.

My sister Chadudj was very fond of society. Hardly
a day passed without any number of visitors being in
the house from six o'clock in the^ morning till mid-
night. Those who arrived very early were received
by the servants, and conducted to a room, where they
could rest until eight or nine o'clock, when they were
welcomed by the lady of the house. Later on I shall
have occasion to say more of these ladies' visits in a
separate chapter.

I did not at all succeed in being on the same
friendly terms with Chadudj as I was with Madjid.
She was rather forbidding, and I never got to love her
fondly. There was too great a contrast between good,
noble Madjid and her. Nor was I the only one who
was of this opinion. Everybody who became more

•

intimately acquainted with them soon found out who
of the two was the more amiable. Above all, she
could be very cold to strangers, and ungracious, and
on this account she had many enemies. She had the
greatest dislike to all novel and foreign things, and
nothing annoyed her more than the call of a European
lady, though it never lasted above half or three-
quarters of an hour.

In other respects she was very circumspect and of
a practical turn, considering her station; she was
never idle, and when she had nothing else to do she.

BET IL WAT0R0. 25

sewed and embroidered dresses for the children of her
married slaves as assiduously as the fine shirts for
her brother. Among these children there were three
very pretty boys, whose father was superintendent of
buildings in our service. These boys were called
Selim, Abdallah, and Tani, and, being only a few years
younger than myself, they soon became my daily com-
panions, as I had no others of my own age in the
place, till I went over more frequently to my brothers
and sisters at Bet il Sahel.

CHAPTEE m.

A DAT AT BET IL SAHEL.

The long-looked for day at last arrived on which I
was to pay a visit to Bet il Sahel with my mother and
Chadudj from early morn till night. It was on a
Friday, the Mahometan Sabbath, that we left our house
as early as half-past five, wrapped in our big black
shawls with gold borders (called Scheie). We had
not far to go, only some one hundred paces, to get to
our destination.

The faithful but rather cross old gatekeeper did
not receive us in an over friendly manner. More
crossly even than was his wont, he told us that he
had been on his feeble legs for the last hour admitting
lady visitors. Said il Nubi, as the crusty old fellow
was called, was a Nubian slave of my father's, whose
beard — I cannot express myself otherwise, as the
Arabs wear their heads shaved bare — had grown
white in long and loyal service. My father thought
much of him, as Said had once stayed his master's
hand in a moment of great though righteous wrath
from committing an act of rashness, which he would
have deeply regretted all his life.

The little ones, however, did not know much about

A DAT AT BET IL SAHEL. 27

Said at the time, and it gave us great pleasure to play
all sorts of tricks upon the crotchety old fellow. Our
designs were chiefly directed against his enormous
keys, and I believe there was not a spot in all Bet il
Sahel where they had not, at one time or another,
been hidden. My brother Djemschid above all
showed great skill in making them disappear so com-
pletely, that even we could not find out their hiding-
place.

We found the people occupying the first floor all
astir already ; only those who were still engaged in
their morning devotions remained as yet invisible.
Nobody would have dared to disturb them, even if the
house had been on fire. We had chosen this day
because my father happened to be there, and the
same reason had caused many others to come too.

Nor were all the ladies who arrived friends or
acquaintances of ours — many, indeed, were perfect
strangers to all of us. Most of them had come from
Oman, our native country, and on purpose only to
obtain some pecuniary aid from my father, which was
rarely denied them. Oman and our kinsfolk there
are very poor, and our own prosperity dates from the
time of my father's conquest and occupation of
Zanzibar.

Women are as a rule forbidden by law to speak to a
strange man. There is, however, an exception to this
in two cases : they may appear before their sovereign
and before a judge. As hardly any of these visitors in
question were able to write or send a petition, there
was nothing left for them but to undertake the short
voyage from Asia to Africa, and to prefer their

28 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

request in person. All of them received presents
according to their position and rank freely, and with-
out the numerous questions that a poor applicant in
Europe is usually subjected to. It is taken for
granted in our country that no respectable person
will ask for assistance merely for the sake of begging,
and this view proves correct in most cases.

I was most affectionately received by all my
brothers and sisters, especially by my dearly beloved
and never-to-be-forgotten sister Chole. Hitherto my
mother had been the only one whom I really and
fondly loved, but I now began to adore this " light of
our house " from my very soul. She was my only
ideal soon, as she had been our father's favourite
child before, and she deserved, indeed, to be admired
by all. She was admitted to be a girl of rare beauty
by all who were unprejudiced and without envy. No
one can remain quite insensible to beauty — it was so
with her in our house, as there was, indeed, no one to
equal her in our whole family, and the fame of her
beauty had spread far and wide. Fine eyes are very
common in the East, but hers were so eminently
beautiful, that she got the name, Nidjm il subh, or
" Morning Star/' An Arab chief, taking part on # a
certain feast day in the popular game of sham fight-
ing in front of our house, was observed with his looks
fixed upon a certain window, quite unconscious of the
blood which gushed from his wounded foot, and of the
pain this wound must have caused him. It was my
sister Chole whom he had seen at the window by
chance ; her beauty had so overwhelmed him that he
accidentally pierced his foot with his iron-pointed

A DAT AT BET Hi SAHEL. 29

lance, and wounded himself without so much as
noticing it, until one of my brothers drew his atten-
tion to the fact. For years after poor innocent
Ghole was teased by my brothers about this affair.

Bet il Sahel, which is a good deal smaller than
Bet il Mtoni, lies also close upon the seashore ; it is a
bright and cheerful-looking place, and a very pleasant
house to live in.

There is a splendid view of the sea and the shipping
from all its windows, which delighted me much. The
doors on the upper floor, which contains many rooms,
open upon a long and wide gallery of tiuch grandness
as I have never seen equalled. The ceiling is sup-
ported by pillars reaching down to the ground, and
these pillars are connected by a high parapet, along
which chairs are placed. A great many coloured
lamps, suspended from the ceiling, throw a magic
glow over the whole house after dark.

The gallery looks down upon a courtyard, always
full of bustle and noise ; I have sometimes been
reminded of all this in after years by market scenes
on the stage, reproducing something like a picture of
it on a small scale.

Two large separate flights of stairs lead from this
court to the rooms on the first floor. Crowds of
people are continually going up and down these stairs,
and the crowding is often so great that it takes some
minutes before one can get to the staircase at all.

One corner of the courtyard is taken up by the
slaughter-house, according to the Eastern custom of
killing one's own meat. In another spot negroes
have their heads shaved ; tired-out water-carriers

30. MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

stretch themselves rather lazily on the ground, heed-
less to all calls for water, until they are uncere-
moniously rouBed and reminded of their duty by one
of the eunuchs ; generally they do not wait for the
approach of those taskmasters, but get up and run
off with their big " Mtungi " (water jars), amid the
jeerings of the bystanders. Not far off a dozen or so
of nursemaids sit basking in the sun with their little
charges, telling them thrilling stories and fairy tales.

The kitchen is put up in the open, near one of the
ground-floor pillars; the numberless cooks quarrel
and fight continually, until one of the head cooks
steps in, dealing blows right and left, and restoring
order for a time. The quantities of meat boiled here
are enormous, the beasts being always cooked whole.
Fish of so large a size was often brought, as had to
be carried by two negroes ; smaller ones were only
bought by basketsfull, and poultry by the dozen. Flour,
rice, and sugar were counted by bags, and butter, im-
ported in a liquid state from the Isle of Socotra, by
jars of about a hundredweight each. Spices alone
were taken by the pound (ratti).

The quantities of fruit consumed were still more
enormous. Thirty to forty porters, and sometimes
as many as fifty, came in daily laden with fruit, not to
count the small boats arriving from the seashore
plantations. I should not overestimate the daily
supply of fresh fruit at Bet il Sahel, in putting it
down as equal to the load of a large railway truck.
During the mango season (embe) more than double
this quantity was consumed every day. Great care-
lessness prevailed in the conveyance of the fruit, and

A DAT AT BET IL SAHEL. 81

large quantities were made quite unfit for use owing
to the manner in which the baskets were treated and
flung on the ground by the slaves.

A wall, about six feet deep, ran along the shore to
protect the house against the sea, with a grove of very
fine pomegranates behind. Several of the best horses
were brought out every morning from the stables, and
fastened to this wall with long ropes, to roam about
and wade in the soft sand at low tide. My father took
great delight in his thoroughbreds from Oman; he
inspected them daily, and himself tended tbem when
they were sick. It is well known how tenderly
attached an Arab is to his favourite horse. My
brother Madjid had a splendid brown mare, and he
ardently wished to obtain a foal from her. This wish
was at last fulfilled, and when " il Kehle," the mare,
was about to foal, he ordered his head groom to call
him, be it night or daytime. We were actually roused
from our sleep one morning, between two and three
o'clock, and informed that the happy event had taken
place. The groom who had brought the glad news
received a reward of fifty dollars from his happy
master. This is by no means a single instance ; the
attachment to horses in Arabia proper is said to be
carried still farther.

After prayers we went to see my father in his apart-
ments. Fond of joking as he always was, he turned
to me after a while, saying : " Well now, Salme, how
do you like this place ? Would you like to return to
Bet il Mtoni ? And don't they forget here to give you
your — milk soup ? "

About ten o'clock all my elder brothers came in

32 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

from their houses to breakfast with my father. Besides
as, his children and grandchildren, who were admitted
after the age of seven, no one but his legitimate wife,
Azze bint Sef, and his sister Asche sat down at his
table. No Surie was ever permitted to take meals
with him, however high she might stand in his favour.
Social distinction in the East never shows itself more
than at meals ; guests are on the most friendly and
intimate footing with their hosts — often more so than
would be the case in Europe — but at meal-time this
equality ceases, and the strictest observance of rank
is adhered to by common consent. Even the Sarari
have established a division of rank among themselves.
The handsome Circassians, well aware of their better
breeding, decline to break bread with the coffee- coloured
Abyssinians : thus by tacit understanding they dine
apart. I have already mentioned that among us
children no distinction of colour was made.

It soon struck me that the occupants of Bet il Sahel
seemed much happier and more cheerful than those
of Bet il Mtoni, and I began to understand the reason
of this afterwards. In this latter place Azze bint
Sef ruled supreme ; she ruled over husband, step-
children, and their mothers — in short, over every one
and everything within her reach, while at Bet il Sahel
all, my father not excepted, were more free and at
liberty to do as they liked ; there was no one here to
give orders but my dear and gentle father. I think
he was himself so conscious of the great difference
between the two houses, that for years he had not sent
any one to live at Bet il Mtoni, except by desire,
although there was plenty of room to spare in the

A DAT AT BET IL SAHEL. 83

palace, while Bet il Sahel was always overcrowded.
This state grew so bad at last that be conceived tbe
happy thought of building wooden pavilions on the
large gallery aforementioned. Finally, however,
another house was built on the shore some miles to
the north of Bet il Sahel, to serve as residence to the
younger generation, which was called Bet il Bas
(Strandhouse).

A painter would have found many models for a
picture in our gallery, for a more variegated company
could not easily be met with. The faces of the people
showed eight to ten different shades of complexion at
least ; and it would, indeed, have puzzled even a clever
artist to make out the many-tinted garments worn.
The noise was truly appalling — quarrelling or romping
children in every corner — loud Voices and clapping
hands summoning servants, the Eastern equivalent for
ringing a bell — the rattle and clatter of the women's
wooden sandals (Kabakib) — all combined in producing
the most distracting din.

Our chief amusement was listening to the babel of
languages spoken in our midst. Arabic was the only
lauguage really sanctioned in my father's presence.
But as soon as he turned his back, a truly Babylonian
confusion of tongues commenced, and Arabian, Per-
sian, Turkish, Circassian, Swahely, Nubian, and
Abyssinian were spoken and mixed up together, not
to mention the various dialects of these tongues. This
excitement seemed, however, to disturb no one, and
only sick people complained of it sometimes. My
father, too, had got quite accustomed to it, and never
interposed.

V i

34 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRIN0ES8.

All my grown-up sisters presented themselves in
festive array on this day, partly because it was our
Sunday, and in honour of our father's presenca Our
mothers walked about or stood together in groups,
talking, laughing, and jesting with each other so
amicably that a stranger, unaware of the fact, would
never have guessed them to be the wives of one man.
The clashing of arms on the staircase announced the
arrival of my numerous brothers and their sons, most
of whom intended to stay with us all day.

Things were kept up at Bet il Sahel in a much more
sumptuous and extravagant style than at Bet il Mtoni,
and I met there a far greater number of handsome
and pretty faces tban at the latter place, where my
mother and her friend Medine had been the only
Circassian women. " But the majority were here Cir-
cassians, who beyond a question are more distinguished
in outward appearance than Abyssinians, though even
amongst the latter great beauties are to be found.
This natural superiority was the cause of a good deal
of ill-will and envy, and one beautiful Circassian in
particular was treated coldly, and even hated by the
Abyssinian women on account of her beauty.

It cannot be a matter of surprise that under these
circumstances a kind of ridiculous " hatred of race "
had broken out among my brothers and sisters. In
spite of many good qualities they have, Abyssinian
women are almost always of a spiteful and vindictive
disposition, for, their passions once roused, tbey know
no bounds or decency. We, that is, the children of
Circassian mothers, were generally called "cats" by
those who had Abyssinian blood in their veins, merely

A DAY AT BET IL SAHEL. 35

because some of ns were the unfortunate possessors
of blue eyes and a fair complexion, for whicb they
nicknamed us " Highness." My father was never for-
given the fact that he had chosen his two favourite
children, Scharife and Chole — both by Circassian
mothers, the former even blue-eyed — from the hate-
ful " race of cats."

At Bet il Mtoni we had always led a kind of monastic
life under the rigid rule of Azze bint Sef, whilst Bet v v
il Watoro was still more lonely and dull. I was
therefore well pleased to join in the merry doings of
Bet il Sahel, and soon made friends with the brothers
and sisters, and two of my nieces, of my own age,
Schembua and Farschu, the only children of my
brother Chalid. They came to Bet il Sahel from their
own house every morning, and went back in the evening
and took part in the lessons and games of their uncles
and aunts. Chalid's mother, Churschit, was a Cir-
cassian, and quite an exceptional woman. She was
uncommonly tall, and possessed a great strength of
will combined with a high degree of common sense ;
I have never met any woman like her in all my life.
Later on, and during the time that Chalid represented
my father in his absence, it was said that it was she
who actually governed the country, and that her son
was only her tool. Her advice and counsel in all
matters concerning our family was considered quite
indispensable, and much depended always upon the
decision she came to. She took in at a glance as much
as if she had owned the hundred eyes of an argus, and
on all momentous occasions gave proof of a wisdom
and sagacity truly Solomonic. She was not, however,

36 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PMNCESS.

very much liked by the little folks, and we rather
avoided coming near her if we could help it.

When about to return to Bet il Watoro in the
evening, I was rather dismayed on hearing my father
tell my mother that I was still to go on with my
lessons, i.e., reading ; and upon her telling him that
as yet no other teacher had been found, he decided
that I was to come to Bet il Sahel, and return home
every night, like my nieces, so as to take part in the
general lessons there. I was not very much pleased
when I heard this ; lessons had never attracted me,
the less so as my last teacher had inspired me with a
thorough dislike to all learning. I got soon reconciled,
however, to the new arrangement in consideration for
the companionship of my brothers and sisters, on all
days except Fridays, and my charming sister Chole
promising my mother to watch over me. She kept
her promise faithfully, quite taking the place of a
mother.

My own dear mother was very much downcast at
my father's decree, which took me away from her six
days in the week, but there was no help for it ; she
made me promise, however, to show myself several
times a day at a certain place, from which she could
see and nod to me in the distance.

CHAPTER IV.

OUR LIFE AT BET Hi WATORO AND AT BET Hi SAHEL.

All I can say here of my new teacher is, that I shall
always remain deeply grateful to God for having given
me such a faithful friend in youth. She was very
strict, but also very just. I was often quite alone
with her, as her other pupils did not much care to
enter her darkened sick chamber, and preferred to
keep out of her reach instead, taking advantage of
her helpless state. I could not, however, bear to hear
her ask for me, and leave her alone in her sufferings.
She was highly pleased at my obedience, it is true,
but my refractory brothers and sisters not only
laughed at me for my pains, but often cuffed me.

In course of time I liked Bet il Sahel very much,
for there was plenty of room for roaming about, and
we played any number of foolish pranks, which were
not left without punishment when found out ; but I
had generally the best of it on such occasions, as
Chole was too tender-hearted to punish me as I
deserved.

We had some splendid peacocks at the house, one
of them was rather savage, and could not bear the
sight of children. One day, when we were walking

CHAPTER VI.

DAILY LIFE IK 0UB HOUSE.

How many times have I been asked : "Do ptease tell
me how can people in your country manage to live,
with nothing to do ? " I had the pleasure of answer-
ing this question six or eight times over at a large
party, and I need not say how amusing and interesting
it was to me to give the same reply so many times
over. Coming from a person inhabiting a Northern
country, the question is quite a natural one I admit,
for it is hard for such to fancy a life without work,
being firmly convinced, moreover, that women in the
East do nothing all day but dream away their time in
a shut-up harem, or, for a change, play with some
luxurious toy.

The ways of life differ everywhere ; all our views,
our habits, and customs are shaped to suit our sur-
roundings. Men and women work in the North
either for an existence or for enjoyment. It is not so
with people in our blessed South. I use the word
"blessed" advisedly, as I look upon the contentedness
of a people as a great and priceless boon ; and because
the Arab, so frequently described in books as idle and
lazy, is accustomed to an abstemiousness in which

OUR LIFE AT BKT IL WATOHO AND AT LET I.*- - iIT.C. \\)

girl down again with a jerk. It was a ~ : :rj • ::".i::..ii
trick indeed, but a success in so far a-; [\ rv.'«t u-r
effectually of her indifference to us— tl. 5 vu i." v-
had wanted.

Being full of mischief. I used to t/'.t v . *.>. :■: •
bv mvself sometimes, and soon aft;r ',-;.• .•••.: ."i
Bet il Watoro I once nearly broke rr.v r.y. ? \ : :

gone on a visit to one of our r.'.--..:r.:r. •. • . *
morning I managed to escape fr^.r. ::. ;• >.. ..-.i:.; • •
and climbed up a high palm-tr'.o a-; :. - . • \ .
without using the pingu, a thick r.v: *.-. •..:>:■:
together, and without which t!:': r.v.r. >...».:•
cannot be prevailed upon to &-/.::.: *. • .»■ ..
"When about half-way up ti.': \:v-. '. •«
out to the people uncoir-:'::o\i::. v ;.•*'-'..",;
wishing them good morning.

What a fright I caused *'.*:-.'. i' —

lected, l>egging and en tr<:,'.\ *...'.;; .v.- . -■•
was impossible to send tr.y •.-..• .
climbing a cocoa- tree I//.;. ;.v. .
therefore the encumbran*.* -/ i -
render the feat an xtaxsa* :.-*>.
quite pleased to rc-rima tv-
up my mind to Blip drr.: t ^ z

standing V v -v, wKr.z.:: _- -;:...
promise^ "I k.^., ... _

itr-r :.- .
if r.- rf - • — -

i£ !*•*.

gPF&L

50 MEMOIRS OF AN ABABLLN PRINCESS.

shoes, stockings, drawers, a dress, petticoats, gloves,
bonnet, ties, gaiters, far muff, and muffatees — their
sole difference being quality ; whilst there, all the
clothing the son of a prince requires consists of two
articles — a shirt and the kofije.

Now, I ask, is the Arab mother, who wants so very >
little for herself and for her child, to work as hard
as the European housewife ? She has not the
slightest idea what is meant by darning stockings or
mending gloves, or of any of those numerous trifles
that a nursery entails; and as for that important
and troublesome domestic item, a washing-day, it is
a thing to us unknown; our linen is washed daily,
and dried in little more than half an hour, smoothed
flat (not ironed), and put away. We do not use, and
are therefore spared the anxiety of those useless orna-
ments called muslin curtains. The garments of an
Eastern woman, those of the greatest lady included,
require an incredibly small amount of attention and
mending: this is easily explained, as women move
very little either indoors or out, and have fewer
dresses.

All this helps to render life to Eastern women,
without distinction of station and rank, much less
complicated. But to become properly acquainted
with, and to get initiated into all these minor de-
tails of household life, it is necessary to have been
in the East, and to have lived there for a con-
siderable time. No reliance is to be placed on the
reports of travellers, who stop for a short time only,
who are unable to gain an insight into all these
details, and maybe obtain all their information from

OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATOBO AND AT BET IL SAHEL. 41

For many hours poor Madjid was lying on his
bed perfectly senseless and in convulsions, inhaling
all the time an atmosphere unwholesome even to any
person in good health. For in spite of our predi-
lection for fresh and pure air, the patients in our
parts are hermetically shut out from the fresh air,
but especially so when, as in the present instance,
the evil one himself is supposed to have a hand in
it, for then the sickroom and the whole house are
thoroughly fumigated.

To the great surprise of everybody, my dear father
arrived an hour afterwards in a mtumbi, a small
fishing-boat holding only one person, and hurried into
the house. The old man was deeply affected by the
illness of this son, he who had more than forty children
alive at the time. The tears ran down into his beard
as he stood at Madjid's sick bed. " Lord !
Lord ! preserve the life of my son ! " was his incessant
prayer. And God granted his prayer, for Madjid was
spared to us.

My mother afterwards asked him why he had come
in such a miserable vessel. " When the messenger
brought the news," he replied "there was not a single
boat on shore; it would have had to be signalled for, and
I had no time to wait. It would also have taken too
long to have a horse saddled. At that very moment
I saw a fisherman pass the Bendjle in his mtumbi, so
I seized my weapons, called to him to stop and to get
out, and jumped into the boat to pull here by myself."
I may mention here that a mtumbi is a most primi-
tive kind of boat, made of the hollowed-out trunk of

a tree, and holds hardly more than one person, who
4

52 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Zanzibar, which, in many respects, differ from those
in other Eastern countries.

The hours of prayer regulate the daily life of every
Mahometan ; they are said five times a day, and if
this be strictly observed, as is ordained by the holy
book, including ablution and changing of dress, they
take up three hours at the very least.

Persons of rank are roused between four and half-
past five o'clock a.m. for the first prayer, and return
to sleep afterwards; devout people wait for sunrise
at six o'clock a.m. before doing so ; the lower classes
begin their daily task immediately after the first -
prayer. All persons in our house could live just as
they pleased, provided they followed the regulations
set down for devotions and for the attendance at the
two principal meals.

The majority slept till eight o'clock, when the
women and girls are gently roused by a slave, who
begins to rub and knead them all over, which pro-
duces a very agreeable sensation. In the meantime
the bath has been filled with fresh spring water, and
the garments — on which jessamine and orange
blossoms have been strewn during night — are fumi-
gated with amber and musk before they are put on.

About an hour is spent with the toilet, after which
everybody has to wish our father good morning
before sitting down to breakfast, the first of our two
daily meals. Though a very copious and abundant
repast, it took us very little time to get it over, as all
the dishes had been prepared and placed on the table
in readiness.

After breakfast everybody is at liberty to employ

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 53

his leisure as he likes. The gentlemen get ready to
go to the audience-chamber ; the women, who have
no work on hand, sit down at the windows to look out
into the animated streets, or watch for a stealthy
glance from the flashing eye of a belated noble hurry-
ing to the levee, until, alas ! the voice of an appre-
hensive mother or aunt calls the unhappy girl away
from the gay scene below.

Two or three hours are thus rapidly passed away.
Meanwhile the gentlemen call upon each other and
send word to the ladies whom they wish to visit in
the evening. The older women, who take no plea-
sure in all this lively stir, retire to their rooms, alone
or in company, to take up some fancy work, to em-
broider their veils, shirts, or drawers with gold
thread, or cambric shirts for their husbands and sons
with red and white silk — an art which requires con-
siderable skill. Others, again, read novels, visit the
sick in their rooms, or employ themselves with their
own private affairs.

At one o'clock the servants announce that it is time
for the second prayer. The sun is now in full blaze,
and after prayer all escape gladly to some cool place
to dream away an hour or two upon handsomely
plaited soft mats, into which sacred mottoes are
woven, or to chat and eat cakes and fruit.

The third prayer is said at four o'clock p.m., and
then we dress in our more elaborate afternoon
costumes. Again we call upon our father, wishing
him "good afternoon" — our grown-up brothers and
sisters are allowed to call him father, the little children
and their mothers only address him as hbabi (sir).

54 MEMOIRS OF AN ABABIAN PRINCESS.

Now followed the liveliest time of the day : we sat
down to our principal meal, at which all members of
our large family met together for the second time.
After the meal the eunuchs placed European chairs
on the grand piazza in front of my father's apart-
ments for the grown-up people, whilst we little
children remained standing in deference to old age,
which is, I believe, nowhere honoured to that degree.
The numerous family grouped round our usually
grave father, the trim and well-armed eunuchs being
ranged at some distance in rank and file along the
gallery. Coffee and all kinds of French fruit-syrups
were handed round, of which we children partook
freely. Conversation was carried on accompanied by
the tunes of a mighty barrel-organ (the largest I have
ever seen), or, for a change, by some large musical box ;
sometimes a blind Arab woman, called Amra, who
possessed an exquisite voice, was called in to sing.

An hour and a half later we all separated, and
employed ourselves as we liked. Some chewed betel-
nut, which is a Suahely habit, and not liked on that
account by Arabs born in Arabia proper. Those,
however, among us who had been born on the East
coast of Africa, and were brought up together with
negroes and mulattoes, rather fancied this habit, not-
withstanding the disapproval of our Asiatic relations,
though we never indulged in it in our father's presence.

Not long afterwards, gunshots and the beat of
drums of the Indian guard announced sunset and the
time for the fourth prayer. Not one of our daily
devotions was performed faster, everybody seemed in
a hurry to get it over. For those who did not wish

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 65

to go out themselves (we and our mothers always re-
quired a special permission from our father or from
his representative, which was rarely refused), or those
who did not expect visitors, were sure to be invited by
some one in the house, or received visits from brothers
and sisters, stepmothers, stepchildren, or from other
people. Coffee and lemonade, fruits and cakes were
freely partaken of. There was a great deal of merry
joking and laughing going on ; some read aloud, others
played at cards (never for money, however), or sang,
or listened to negroes playing the sese, or sewed,
embroidered, and made lace.

It is, therefore, quite a mistake to suppose that a
great lady in the East does absolutely nothing. It is
true she does not paint, nor play, nor dance (according
to Western notions). But are there no other amuse-
ments to divert oneself with ? People in our country
are very temperate, and they are not given to a
feverish pursuit of everchanging amusements and
pleasures, though from the European point of view
Oriental life may appear somewhat monotonous.

Our own personal attendants were, of course, all
women ; the menservants were dismissed every even-
ing to their homes and families, and the eunuchs slept
also outside the house.

Oil lamps are kept burning all night in the rooms
and passages, but no candles are allowed after bed-
time. Children above the age of two are no longer
put to bed at a certain hour, they are left to them-
selves until they are tired. It frequently occurs that
the children, overcome by fatigue, lie down anywhere
and fall asleep, and then they are generally picked up

34 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Things were kept up at Bet il Sahel in a much more
sumptuous and extravagant style than at Bet il Mtoni,
and I met there a far greater number of handsome
and pretty faces than at the latter place, where my
mother and her friend Medine had been the only
Circassian women. " But the majority were here Cir-
cassians, who beyond a question are more distinguished
in outward appearance than Abyssinians, though even
amongst the latter great beauties are to be found.
This natural superiority was the cause of a good deal
of ill-will and envy, and one beautiful Circassian in
particular was treated coldly, and even hated by the
Abyssinian women on account of her beauty.

It cannot be a matter of surprise that under these
circumstances a kind of ridiculous " hatred of race "
had broken out among my brothers and sisters. In
spite of many good qualities they have, Abyssinian
women are almost always of a spiteful and vindictive
disposition, for, their passions once roused, they know
no bounds or decency. We, that is, the children of
Circassian mothers, were generally called " cats " by
those who had Abyssinian blood in their veins, merely

A DAT AT BET IL SAHEL. 35

because some of us were the unfortunate possessors
of blue eyes and a fair complexion, for which they
nicknamed us " Highness." My father was never for-
given the fact that he had chosen his two favourite
children, Scharife and Chole — both by Circassian
mothers, the former even blue- eyed — from the hate-
ful " race of cats."

At Bet il Mtoni we had always led a kind of monastic
life under the rigid rule of Azze bint Sef, whilst Bet K
il Watoro was still more lonely and dull. I was
therefore well pleased to join in the merry doings of
Bet il Sahel, and soon made friends with the brothers
and sisters, tod two of my nieces, of my own age,
Schembua and Farschu, the only children of my
brother Chalid. They came to Bet il Sahel from their
own house every morning, and went back in the evening
and took part in the lessons and games of their uncles
and aunts. Chalid's mother, Churschit, was a Cir-
cassian, and quite an exceptional woman. She was
uncommonly tall, and possessed a great strength of
will combined with a high degree of common sense ;
I have never met any woman like her in all my life.
Later on, and during the time that Chalid represented
my father in his absence, it was said that it was she
who actually governed the country, and that her son
was only her tool. Her advice and counsel in all
matters concerning our family was considered quite
indispensable, and much depended always upon the
decision she came to. She took in at a glance as much
as if she had owned the hundred eyes of an argus, and
on all momentous occasions gave proof of a wisdom
and sagacity truly Solomonic. She was not, however,

36 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PMNCESS.

very much liked by the little folks, and we rather
avoided coming near her if we could help it.

When about to return to Bet il Watoro in the
evening, I was rather dismayed on hearing my father
tell my mother that I was still to go on with my
lessons, i.e., reading; and upon her telling him that
as yet no other teacher had been found, he decided
that I was to come to Bet il Sahel, and return home
every night, like my nieces, so as to take part in the
general lessons there. I was not very much pleased
when I heard this ; lessons had never attracted me,
the less so as my last teacher had inspired me with a
thorough dislike to all learning. I got soon reconciled,
however, to the new arrangement in consideration for
the companionship of my brothers and sisters, on all
days except Fridays, and my charming sister Chole
promising my mother to watch over me. She kept
her promise faithfully, quite taking the place of a
mother.

CHAPTER IV.

OUB LIFE AT BET Hi WATORO AND AT BET Hi SAHEL.

AiJi I can say here of my new teacher is, that I shall
always remain deeply grateful to God for having given
me such a faithful friend in youth. She was very
strict, but also very just. I was often quite alone
with her, as her other pupils did not much care to
enter her darkened sick chamber, and preferred to
keep out of her reach instead, taking advantage of
her helpless state. I could not, however, bear to hear
her ask for me, and leave her alone in her sufferings.
She was highly pleased at my obedience, it is true,
but my refractory brothers and sisters not only
laughed at me for my pains, but often cuffed me.

We had some splendid peacocks at the house, one
of them was rather savage, and could not bear the
sight of children. One day, when we were walking

88 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

round the cupola of the Turkish bath, which was
connected by a suspension bridge with Bet il Sahel
and Bet il Tani, this peacock suddenly and furiously
darted at my brother Djemschid. We threw our-
selves on the beast, and conquered it at last, not
feeling inclined, however, to set it free without punish-
- ment. We resolved upon a very cruel revenge, viz.
depriving the animal of its magnificent plumage ;
and miserable enough the pugnacious bird looked
after this. My father was fortunately absent at the
time, and when he returned the affair was hushed
up.

Two Circassian women had arrived from Egypt,
and after a time it appeared to us as if one of them
was rather haughty and indifferent to us. We were
rather galled at this, and put our heads together to
find out a punishment equal to the offence ; but we
found it very difficult since we rarely had the oppor-
tunity of seeing or meeting her. She was only a few
years older than ourselves, and therefore the affront
was the greater. With this grievance in our minds,
we were once passing her apartment, the door of
which stood open as usual. The poor thing was
seated at the time on a very light Suahely bed, which
consists of four posts only held together by ropes and
a mat, merrily singing one of her pretty national
songs. On this occasion my sister Schewane was
our leader ; a sign from her sufficed to make us at
once understand what she proposed to do. In a
trice we took hold of the connecting ropes, and,
pulling all together, we hoisted the matting upon
which she was sitting, and dropped the frightened

OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATORO AND AT BET IL SAHEL. 89

girl down again with a jerk. It was a very childish
trick indeed, but a success in so far as it cured her
effectually of her indifference to us — this was all we
had wanted.

Being full of mischief, I used to play tricks quite
by myself sometimes, and soon after our removal to
Bet il Watoro I once nearly broke my neck. We had
gone on a visit to one of our plantations. One
morning I managed to escape from my attendants,
and climbed up a high palm-tree as nimbly as a cat,
without using the pingu, a thick rope to keep the feet
together, and without which the most skilled climber
cannot be prevailed upon to ascend a cocoa-tree.
When about half-way up the tree, I began calling
out to the people unconsciously passing below, and
wishing them good morning.

What a fright I caused them all ! A crowd col-
lected, begging and entreating me to get down. It
was impossible to send any one up to help me. In
climbing a cocoa-tree both hands must be free, and
therefore the encumbrance of a child of eight would
render the feat an impossible one. I was, however,
quite pleased to remain where I was, and only made
up my mind to slip down when my mother, who was
standing below, wringing her hands in despair, had
promised me all kinds of delightful things. Every-
body spoiled me that day, and loaded me with
presents on account of my lucky escape, instead of
soundly thrashing me as I deserved.

Such and similar pranks we played daily, and no
punishment could deter us from a new one. We
seven— three boys and four girls— turned the whole

40 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

house topsy-turvy, and caused no small annoyance to
our mothers.

Sometimes my dear mother kept me at home on a
week-day, and this was always an opportunity for
Madjid to spoil me thoroughly. On one of these
days he greatly frightened us. He frequently suffered
from severe spasms, and for this reason he was hardly
ever left without an attendant to render immediate
assistance. When he was in his bath-room, my
mother and Chadudj watched alternately at the door,
not trusting the slaves, and spoke to him from time
to time, and he used to tell them jokingly that he
was still alive. While Chadudj was thus walking up
and down one day at his door, she suddenly heard
the sound of a heavy fall in the room, and when she
rushed in frightened to death, she found her beloved
brother on the raised platform convulsed by a terrible
attack, the worst he had ever had. A messenger on
horseback was at once despatched to Bet il Mtoni to
fetch my father.

In all cases of sickness and disease we are un-
fortunately exposed to the most ignorant quacks and
mountebanks, and now that I have come to know
and to appreciate the natural and reasonable means
employed by medical men in Europe, I am induced
to think that in the majority of cases our dead have
not succumbed to their disease, but have been sacri-
ficed to the barbarous treatment to which they were
subjected. I am sure we could not have borne the many
cases of death in our family, and among our friends
so resignedly, without being sustained by the firm
and irrefutable belief in our " destiny."

OUR LIFE AT BET IL WATORO AND AT BET IL SAHEL. 41

My mother afterwards asked him why he had come
in such a miserable vessel. " When the messenger
brought the news," he replied "there was not a single
boat on shore ; it would have had to be signalled for, and
I had no time to wait. It would also have taken too
long to have a horse saddled. At that very moment
I saw a fisherman pass the Bendjle in his mtumbi, so
I seized my weapons, called to him to stop and to get
out, and jumped into the boat to pull here by myself."
I may mention here that a mtumbi is a most primi-
tive kind of boat, made of the hollowed-out trunk of
a tree, and holds hardly more than one person, who

42 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

has to paddle it along. It is narrow, pointed, and
comparatively shorty in shape somewhat like a whale-
boat.

It may be thought strange, according to Western
views, that a father so uneasy about the life of his
child, and who sets aside all regards of etiquette in
his anxiety, should find time to think of his weapons.
Here, also, the saying comes true : " So many
countries, so many customs.' ' Incomprehensible as
this great attachment which the Arab has for his
weapons may appear to a European, so incredible
are to us some of the Northern habits, as that of
excessive drinking in this country, for instance. I
continued to go to school daily at Bet il Sahel, and
returned at night to my mother at Bet il Watoro.
When I had succeeded in learning by heart about
the third part of the Kuran, at the age of nine, I was
considered too old for school, and after this only went
to Bet il Sahel with my mother and Ghadudj on
Fridays to see my father.

CHAPTEE V.

REMOVAL TO BET IL TANI.

Wb lived quietly and peacefully at Bet il Watoro for
about two years. Unfortunately good times never
last long, and events often arise which have been
least foreseen or expected, as it was in our case* Nor
is it possible to fancy a creature more lovable and of
more gentle disposition than the one who unwittingly
disturbed the tranquillity of our domestic life. Asche,
a distant relation of ours, had only lately arrived at
Zanzibar from our native country, Oman, and shortly
after she became Madjid's wife. All of us liked her
very much, and rejoiced at the happiness and good
fortune of our brother, all except his own sister
Ghadudj. It grieves me much to have to admit that,
from beginning to end, Chadudj greatly wronged
Asche. The latter was a truly charming person, and
still very young ; but, instead of instructing and train-
ing her to her new station as she ought to have done,
Chadudj behaved to her in a most unsisterly fashion.
She was the mistress of the house by right of her
marriage, but, disregarding this, Chadudj ruled over
her so tyranically, that poor, gentle Asche frequently
came to my mother in tears, complaining of her
troubles.

44 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

My mother now found herself, as it were, placed
between two fires, and her position became more and
more embarrassing. Chadudj could not be prevailed
upon to give up any of her pretended rights, but con-
tinued to treat Asche as a child. My mother tried to
impress Chadudj with a sense of Asche's position as
Madjid's wife, and begged her to avoid, for Madjid' s
sake, all that might vex or cause him annoyance. It
was all to no purpose, and her life at Bet il Watoro,
once so agreeable and happy, grew gradually unbear-
able. So at last my mother decided to quit the
house which was so dear to her rather than be a
witness any longer to the continual discord.

But Madjid and his wife would not listen to this —
Asche in particular, who never called my mother
otherwise than Umma (" mamma "), was quite incon-
solable.' Chadudj, on the other hand, remained per-
fectly indifferent, and this only confirmed my mother
still more in the resolve she had taken.

Asche herself could stand the life no longer. She
therefore sued for and obtained a divorce from Madjid.
But after this sad experience of her young life, her
heart turned against Zanzibar and its inhabitants ;
therefore, as soon as the favourable south wind set in,
which our ships had been waiting for, she came to
bid us good-bye. Being an orphan, she purposed
returning to an old aunt of hers in Oman, who lived
somewhere in the neighbourhood of Mesket.

Our exodus from Bet il Watoro had already been
effected previous to this event, and we had taken up
our residence at Bet il Tani. My sister Chole was
greatly pleased with this, as we now lived quite close

HE>rOVAL*TO BET IL TANI. 45

to her, and nearly in the same place, where she had
taken the trouble to select and arrange our new
quarters.

It was really a difficult matter to obtain rooms in
our houses, and for this reason it had gradually be-
come a custom to give a kind of reversionary promise
on the death of persons in possession, as is done in
the case of charitable institutions in Europe. Some-
times it was indeed revolting to see how people would
carefully watch the slightest attack of coughing, or
other alarming symptoms in their neighbours, and
mentally disposing of the coveted rooms. All this was
very wicked, and mainly the consequence of our over-
crowded condition. It was due to Chole's inter-
cession that we obtained large and handsome
apartments, without the unpleasant consciousness of
being usurpers.

We saw but little of Chadudj, now; she was offended
at our removal, and reproached my mother very un-
justly with want of affection. The latter had, how-
ever, too strong a sense of justice as to suffer quietly
such unfair treatment of a defenceless and inexpe-
rienced woman, whose only offence had been that she
had dared to become Madjid's wife. My brother, on
the other hand, came to see us frequently, and he
remained the dear and true friend he had always
been.

Bet il Tani lies quite close to Bet il Sahel, and is
connected, as previously mentioned, with the latter by
a suspension bridge, which runs over the roof of the
Turkish bath between both houses. It now retained
but the shadow of its former splendour, for in the

46 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

upper floor of this palace had lived, many years ago,
a second legitimate wife of my father's, Schesade, a
Persian princess of entrancing beauty. She is said
to have been excessively extravagant, but to have
fondly loved her step-children. Her little retinue
was composed of one hundred and fifty cavaliers, all
Persians, who lived on the ground floor ; with them
she hunted and rode in the broad day — rather contrary
to strict Arab notions. The Persian women are sub-
jected to quite a Spartan training in bodily exercise ;
they enjoy great liberty, much more so than Arab
women, but they are also much more rude in mind
and action.

Schesade is said to have carried on her extravagant
style of life beyond bounds ; her dresses, cut always
after the Persian fashion, were literally covered with
embroideries of pearls. A great many of these were
picked up nearly every morning by the servants in her
rooms, where she had dropped them from her gar-
ments, but the princess would never take any of these
precious jewels back again. She did not only drain
my father's exchequer most wantonly, but violated
many of our sacred laws ; in fact, she had only
married him for his high station and his wealth,
and had loved some one else all the time. He was
about to resent her conduct one day on her return
from one of her excursions, and it was on this occa-
sion that faithful old Nubi had saved him from com-
mitting a great crime. Such a scene could, of course,
only end in a divorce ; fortunately Schesade had no
children of her own. There is a rumour still current
amongst us that beautiful Schesade was observed some

REMOVAL TO BET IL TANI. 47

years after this event, when my father carried on war
in Persia, and had the good fortune of taking the
fortress of Bender Abbas, on the Persian Gulf, head-
ing her troops, and taking aim at the members of our
family herself.

In the former home of this princess I began to
learn to write by myself in a very primitive way. It
had to be done secretly, too, as women never receive
lessons in writing, and are not even allowed to show
their skill therein. Taking the Kuran as guide, I
tried to copy the letters as faithfully as I could upon
the shoulder-blade of a camel, which we use in place
of a slate. My courage rose as I got on, and I only
required at last some finishing instructions in calli-
graphy, for which end I appointed one of our slaves,
who was notoriously proficient in the art, to the dignity
of writing master.

My friends greatly ridiculed my efforts, but I did
not allow my enthusiasm to be damped thereby, nor
have I ever had cause to regret the hours I spent in
acquiring the art of writing, since it has proved a
means of communicating with the few loyal and faith-
ful ones of my far-away home.

CHAPTER VI.

DAILY LIFE IN OUB HOUSE.

How many times have I been asked : "Do please tell
me how can people in your country manage to live,
with nothing to do ? " I had the pleasure of answer-
ing this question six or eight times over at a large
party, and I need not say how amusing and interesting
it was to me to give the same reply so many times
over. Coming from a person inhabiting a Northern
country, the question is quite a natural one I admit,
for it is hard for such to fancy a life without work,
being firmly convinced, moreover, that women in the
East do nothing all day but dream away their time in
a shut-up harem, or, for a change, play with some
luxurious toy.

The ways of life differ everywhere ; all our views,
our habits, and customs are shaped to suit our sur-
roundings. Men and women work in the North
either for an existence or for enjoyment. It is not so
with people in our blessed South. I use the word
" blessed* ' advisedly, as I look upon the contentedness
of a people as a great and priceless boon ; and because
the Arab, so frequently described in books as idle and
lazy, is accustomed to an abstemiousness in which

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 49

perhaps a Chinaman only equals him. The climate
itself brings it about that the Southerner may work if
he likes, while the Northerner is obliged to. Northern
people are inclined somewhat to form opinions and
prejudices in their own favour ; they are accustomed
to look down upon their antipodes proudly and con-
temptuously, which, to my taste at least, is not a
very commendable quality to possess. It is but too
often overlooked in this country how indispensable
industry and activity are to the North to save hun-
dreds of thousands from starvation. Are Italians,
Spaniards, and Portuguese not a great deal less in-
dustrious than Englishmen or Germans ? And for
what reason? Simply because their summer time
lasts so much longer than their winter, and because
they have not to struggle so hard for existence. In
the cold season so many things of the direst necessity
are required, the mere name and existence of which
are beyond the comprehension of people in the South.

Extravagant habits may be met with in every
country. Those who possess both inclination and
means will never lack the opportunity of gratifying
the one and spending the other to the fullest, where-
ever they may be. Indeed, I do not intend to enlarge
on this subject, but merely draw comparisons between
the respective requirements of different countries.

Countless objects are needed in this country to
protect the frail life of a newborn child against the
effects of an ever-changing temperature, while the
Southern baby is left almost naked, and sleeps in a
draught of warm air. Here a child of two years —
from the richest to the poorest — cannot do without

50 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

shoes, stockings, drawers, a dress, petticoats, gloves,
bonnet, ties, gaiters, fur muff, and muffatees — their
sole difference being quality ; whilst there, all the
clothing the son of a prince requires consists of two
articles — a shirt and the kofije.

Now, I ask, is the Arab mother, who wants so very ,
little for herself and for her child, to work as hard
as the European housewife ? She has not the
slightest idea what is meant by darning stockings or
mending gloves, or of any of those numerous trifles
that a nursery entails; and as for that important
and troublesome domestic item, a washing-day, it is
a thing to us unknown; our linen is washed daily,
and dried in little more than half an hour, smoothed
flat (not ironed), and put away. We do not use, and
are therefore spared the anxiety of those useless orna-
ments called muslin curtains. The garments of an
Eastern woman, those of the greatest lady included,
require an incredibly small amount of attention and
mending: this is easily explained, as women move
very little either indoors or out, and have fewer
dresses.

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 51

hotel waiters. Foreign ladies even, supposing they
have actually entered a harem either at Constanti-
nople or Cairo, have never seen the inside of a real
harem at all, but only its outside, represented by the
state rooms decorated and furnished in European
style.

Our climate, moreover, is so splendid and produc-
tive that it is hardly necessary to provide for the
coming day. I do not deny that our people, taken as
a whole, are averse to " flurry; " but it will be easier
to realize the effects of a tropical sun, if one only
considers how very trying a hot July or August in
Europe can be sometimes.

I repeat it — Arabs are by no means inclined to be
industrious ; they only value two things, the art of
war and husbandry, and but very few settle down to a
trade. Though they are obliged to do much barter
trade, they are poor merchants on the whole, and
have but little of the Semitic talent for trading. Very
little suffices for their few wants, and the future is left
to provide for itself. An Arab never thinks of making
plans for the morrow, as he may expect to be called
away any day. He never plants but that which he
can reap himself; and he considers him who acts
otherwise to be "like the rich man who set up
greater barns" (Luke xii.).

In this way life in the East is less laborious and
more peaceful : it was this that I wanted particularly
to point out and to prove before entering on a more
minute description of the daily life in an Arab house-
hold. Let me, however, state expressly that I am
only speaking here of things referring to Oman and

52 MEM01ES OF AN ABABIAN PRINCESS.

Zanzibar, which, in many respects, differ from those
in other Eastern countries.

Persons of rank are roused between four and half-
past five o'clock a.m. for the first prayer, and return
to sleep afterwards; devout people wait for sunrise
at six o'clock a.m. before doing so ; the lower classes
begin their daily task immediately after the first
prayer. All persons in our house could live just as
thoy pleased, provided they followed the regulations
set down for devotions and for the attendance at the
two principal meals.

Tho majority slept till eight o'clock, when the
women and girls are gently roused by a slave, who
begins to rub and knead them all over, which pro-
duces a very agreeable sensation. In the meantime
the bath has been filled with fresh spring water, and
tho garments — on which jessamine and orange
bloKsoms have been strewn during night — are fumi-
gated with amber and musk before they are put on.

About an hour is spent with the toilet, after which
everybody has to wish our father good morning
before sitting down to breakfast, the first of our two
daily meals. Though a very copious and abundant
repast, it took us very little time to get it over, as all
tho dishes had been prepared and placed on the table
in readiness.

After breakfast everybody is at liberty to employ

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 53

his leisure as he likes. The gentlemen get ready to
go to the audience-chamber; the women, who have
no work on hand, sit down at the windows to look out
into the animated streets, or watch for a stealthy
glance from the flashing eye of a belated noble hurry-
ing to the levee, until, alas ! the voice of an appre-
hensive mother or aunt calls the unhappy girl away
from the gay scene below.

54 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 55

Our own personal attendants were, of course, all
women ; the menservants were dismissed every even-
ing to their homes and families, and the eunuchs slept
also outside the house.

56 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

carefully by some slaves and carried to their couches,
sometimes a long way, without awaking to the fact.

Those people who have not gone out or received
visitors generally retire about ten o'clock. On moon-
light nights many take a walk on the flat housetops,
which was a very delightful airing.

The fifth and last prayer ought to be said at 7.80
p.m., but as many are prevented at this time, it may
be left unsaid until midnight or bedtime.

At bedtime all ladies of rank are waited upon by
their female slaves, whose business it is to watch the
falling asleep of their mistresses. One of them re-
peats the kneading process of the morning, while
another fans gently, until they too may retire. I
have mentioned already that all women go to bed fully
dressed, and with all their jewels.

CHAPTEE VH.

OUR MEALS.

We had two meals a day, as I have mentioned before.
About nine a.m. we all met in the great saloon to kiss
our father's hands. As a rule our brothers and
nephews, even those who were married and who lived
out of the house, shared our breakfast during the
time our father lived in town with us. I do not
remember, however, that he ever went out to take a
meal with any of his sons or any one else.

The dishes were all arranged and placed by the
eunuchs on the long sefra (dining- table). This sefra
is made of wood, and looks somewhat like a billiard-
table, only ours was twice as long, a little wider, and
about three inches high, with a ledge of about a hand's
breadth running round its sides. We do not have
separate dining-rooms, and the sefra is carried into
the gallery at mealtimes. Though we had some
foreign furniture, such -as couches, tables, and chairs,
and sometimes wardrobes (my father's apartment
contained a great deal of European furniture, which
was more for show, however, than for actual use), we
took our meals after the Eastern fashion, and sat
down on the floor upon carpets and mats. Precedence

80 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

end, because foreign culture is contrary and opposed
to their fundamental views. Civilization cannot be
obtruded by force, and it will only be just to concede
to every nation the right of adhering without hindrance
to their views and institutions, which have in the
course of centuries been founded under the in-
fluence of ripened experience and practical worldly
wisdom. Above all, the pious Arab would be deeply
shocked if his civilization were to begin with lessons
on natural science, of which, according to the
European code of education, people are supposed to
know something. What would be his bewilderment if
any one were to talk to him of the laws of nature, who
sees in all the universe, down to its most infinitesimal
details, but one source of creation — the all-guiding
and all-directing hand of God 1

CHAPTEB X.

YEARLY OUTFIT. TOILET AND FASHION IN OUU

HOUSEHOLD*

In Europe the father of a family generally makes his
wife and his unmarried daughters a certain monthly
or quarterly allowance for their dresses. This, how-
ever, is not the case with us. Zanzibar has no
manufacture of any kind, therefore all the clothing
and materials required for the entire population have
to be imported from foreign lands.

My father carried on an extensive barter trade for
the immense requirements of his various households.
Several of his large sailing ships were annually
despatched laden with produce (principally cloves) to
England, Marseilles, Persia, to the East Indies and to
China, and the net proceeds of these cargoes was
reinvested by our agents in these countries in such
goods as they had instructions to purchase. The
master of each vessel took an endless list of the goods
to be brought back, most of them being articles of
dress and fashion.

The day for the yearly distribution of these goods
depended, of course, upon the return of the ships. It
is but natural that this event was impatiently looked

82 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

forward to ; it signified to us the beginning of a new
season of fashion, and the style and quality of our
finery for a whole year depended upon the contents
of the ships lying in our ports.

To us children this time also had an especial charm :
it brought all our beautiful toys from Europe. I
remember my frantic joy on one of these occasions at
being presented with a beautifully dressed doll — my
first one — a doll that cried and had teeth !

Soon after the vessels had arrived in port, a day
was fixed on which the distribution of the cargo was
to take place to old and young, high and low, in the
house. Our younger brothers generally tried to find out
beforehand from the captains what toys they had
brought back. There were always twenty to thirty
cases, containing nothing but horses, carriages, dolls,
whips, fishes, and ducks, with magnets, musical boxes
of all sizes, concertinas, flutes, trumpets, guns, and
what not ! Woe to the captain whose goods did not
give satisfaction, for he was responsible for all he
brought back, having full power and positive orders
to buy only the best of everything, wherever he could
get it, without regard to price.

The distribution took place at Bet il Mtoni and at
Bet il Sahel, and it always took three to four days before
each of the hundreds of recipients had received his
share. The eunuchs had to do the unpacking, and
my elder brothers and sisters were entrusted with the
general apportioning. I regret to say, however, that
this time never went by without a good deal of heart-
burning and real or imaginary grievances.

The materials for clothing, costly and plain, were K

YEARLY OUTFIT. 83

delivered to each member of the family, after which
a lively exchange was carried on in the house for the
next fortnight — resulting in a general satisfaction all
round. There were musk, ambergris, numerous
Oriental oils, ottar of roses and rosewater, saffron
(which, mixed with other ingredients, is used fpr
dressing the hair), silks of all colours, gold and silver
thread for fancy work, gilt and silver buttons— in
short, every article an Arab lady could desire — besides
which, to refund the outlay for various trifles, a cer-
tain sum of money (in Maria Theresia dollars) was
paid over to each, varying according to rank and age.

Sometimes it happened that an extravagantly
fashionable lady spent more in the course of a year
than she could well afford — in which case she would
have to appeal to father or husband for help. Such
requests were always kept very secret, for the lords of
Arabian households are as averse to recklessness as
their Northern brethren, and although the petitioner's
request was generally granted, it was also accompanied
with a wholesome reprimand.

Of course there were also people of economical pro-
pensities among the members of our household, and
these were of opinion that keeping slaves for mere
show — a custom with people of rank and wealth —
is a great piece of extravagance. They, therefore, had
their young women-slaves instructed in different
branches of trade, such as dressmaking, embroidering,
and lace-making, while the boys were employed in
saddlery, carpentering, and so on. The owners of
such slaves managed thus to greatly reduce their
expenditure, whilst those who were less provident gave

52 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Zanzibar, which, in many respects, differ from those
in other Eastern countries.

Persons of rank are roused between four and half-
past five o'clock a.m. for the first prayer, and return
to sleep afterwards; devout people wait for sunrise
at six o'clock a.m. before doing so ; the lower classes
begin their daily task immediately after the first
prayer. All persons in our house could live just as
they pleased, provided they followed the regulations
set down for devotions and for the attendance at the
two principal meals.

After breakfast everybody is at liberty to employ

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 53

his leisure as he likes. The gentlemen get ready to
go to the audience-chamber; the women, who have
no work on hand, sit down at the windows to look out
into the animated streets, or watch for a stealthy
glance from the flashing eye of a belated noble hurry-
ing to the levee, until, alas ! the voice of an appre-
hensive mother or aunt calls the unhappy girl away
from the gay scene below.

54 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

DAILY LIFE IN OUR HOUSE. 55

Our own personal attendants were, of course, all
women ; the menservants were dismissed every even-
ing to their homes and families, and the eunuchs slept
also outside the house.

56 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

carefully by some slaves and carried to their couches,
sometimes a long way, without awaking to the fact.

Those people who have not gone out or received
visitors generally retire about ten o'clock. On moon-
light nights many take a walk on the flat housetops,
which was a very delightful airing.

The fifth and last prayer ought to be said at 7.80
p.m., but as many are prevented at this time, it may
be left unsaid until midnight or bedtime.

CHAPTEE VH.

OUR MEALS.

The dishes were all arranged and placed by the
eunuchs on the long sefra (dining-table). This sefra
is made of wood, and looks somewhat like a billiard-
table, only ours was twice as long, a little wider, and
about three inches high, with a ledge of about a hand's
breadth running round its sides. We do not have
separate dining-rooms, and the sefra is carried into
the gallery at mealtimes. Though we had some
foreign furniture, such -as couches, tables, and chairs,
and sometimes wardrobes (my father's apartment
contained a great deal of European furniture, which
was more for show, however, than for actual use), we
took our meals after the Eastern fashion, and sat
down on the floor upon carpets and mats. Precedence

90 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

receive us. But the overseer himself, conformably
with Eastern etiquette, did not show himself during
our whole stay.

Fruits of all kinds were handed round immediately
after our arrival, and we sat down to breakfast at
once in the same order of rank as at home. After
breakfast we separated to amuse ourselves as we
might, quite unrestrainedly, for here we could wander
wherever we pleased, since no strangers were likely to
surprise us in the grounds. Only at meals and at
prayers the whole company met again.

Invitations from the adjoining estates soon followed,
and the ladies from the neighbourhood sent word to
announce their visits. Invitations and calls were
always intended for all the family ; while our guests
were received and entertained only by our elder brothers
and sisters, every member of the family was at liberty
to accept an invitation.

As it was impossible to provide the necessary
bedding for so many people, everybody lay down to
sleep on horse and saddle-cloths, their arm for a
pillow.

The quantities of eatables consumed on these ex-
cursions were really astounding. I have already said
that these were conveyed by many hundred slaves for
several days ; besides all this, our kind neighbours
insisted upon replenishing our store daily, in proof of
their friendly feeling. I need not say that many
cases of sickness occurred in consequence of this
bountiful feasting.

Dear old Ledda, the head of the customs, had
always shown, though a Banjan, rare loyalty and

OUR MEALS. 59

Drinks were not taken at meals, but after them
sherbet or sugared water was handed round. There
was no talking, unless some one was specially
addressed by my father; the greatest silence pre-
vailed, which was very pleasant. Neither flowers nor
fruit were placed on the sefra.

Shortly before and after each meal male and female
slaves, smartly dressed, handed rQund basins to wash
our hands. As a rule we used our fingers to eat with
— knives and forks were deemed superfluous, and they
were used only when European guests were enter-
tained. Meats and fish were chopped up small before-
hand, and we had spoons for all liquids. The upper
classes perfume their hands after the washing, to
remove any traces of the viands.

Fruit was never taken at meals, but either before or
some time after. Each person had a certain quantity
of the kinds in season sent to her rooms.

Half an hour after breakfast and dinner coffee was
served by eunuchs in those well-known little Oriental
cups in gold or silver casings. The coffee is very
strong, boiled down to syrup, and filtered quite clear.
It is taken without sugar and milk, and nothing is
eaten with it, except, perhaps, a very finely chopped
" areka " nut.

Coffee is always poured into the cup immediately
before it is taken, and as the pouring out requires
some skill, there are but few servants who can be
selected for this office. The neat coffee-pot of tin,
with brass clasps (china is never used), is carried in
the left hand, and one of the little cups in its casing
(called sarf) in the right one of the servant who

60 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

pours out the beverage, an assistant following with a
tray of empty cups and a large pot to fill up from.
If he finds all the company still together, his work is
quickly done, otherwise it is his duty to seek out each
person.

It is well known that coffee is highly valued in the
East, and great care is devoted to its preparation.
The quantity each time required is roasted, ground
and boiled immediately before use, that it may be
quite fresh. Neither the surplus of roasted beans
nor the boiled coffee is ever kept ; what remains is
either thrown away or used by the lower servants if
they like.

The second and last meal is taken every afternoon
at four o'clock precisely, and nothing more is served
after the same until breakfast next morning, except
coffee and fruits.

CHAPTEE Vm.

BIRTH AND FIRST YEARS OF THE LIFE OF A PRINCE

AND PRINCESS.

Although the birth of a prince or of a princess with
us was not announced by the salute of guns, it was
nevertheless always an event of importance, which
caused much joy, but I regret to say much envy also.
Our father and the respective mother were of course
delighted at the birth of a child, and we little ones
fully shared their joy. A newborn brother or sister
had to go through all manners of ceremonies, and as
such births occurred five or six times annually in our
family, they were the welcome cause of as many
family festivities to us.

No Mahometan will suffer the assistance of a
medical man in such cases ; midwives alone are
allowed and admitted, and they are ignorance itself.
The majority of them come from Hindustan, and are
much preferred to native women ; I do not know for
what reason, for a midwife from Hindustan knows as
little or less of her business than those from Arabia
or from the Suahely country. In fact, mother as
well as child may thank God alone, and their constitu-
tion, if they survive at all or keep well afterwards, for

G2 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

they owe no thanks to their stupid and foolish
nurses.

After a warm water bath a kind of bandage is
wound round the child's body, its neck and armpits
are powdered with some strongly perfumed vegetable
powder, and- it is dressed in a calico shirt of an in-
grain dye, or in a muslin one. The little thing is
then placed on its back, its hands and feet are
straightened out to the utmost, and it is swathed in a
swathiog-band up to the shoulders, the tiny arms and
legs being thus firmly confined. In this state the
child remains for forty days, except while the band is
removed twice a day to give it a bath. By this pro-
cess the child's body, it is thought, will be made
straight and faultless for life.

The mother always watches over the child herself,
and never leaves it to the care of any of her servants.
Slaves are set to rock the cradle incessantly, which is
of East Indian workmanship, and made of the finest
wood beautifully carved. She rarely, however, nurses
the child herself, except for a pastime, for each child
has one or two wet nurses up to the age of two.

If it be a girl, she has holes pricked in her ears
on the seventh day with a needle and thread of red
silk, generally six in each ear, to which heavy gold
rings are attached for ever when she is two months
old. I say " for ever," because females who do not
wear earrings either mourn a deceased relation or
they have no holes pierced.

On the fortieth day a ceremony is performed to
which European children could not be subjected : all
the hair is shaved off the child's head. This may

LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 63

appear incredible, but many things in the South are
different to what they are here. A bald-headed child
would be considered as great a curiosity as a child
born with a few tufts of hair is in this country. My
Hamburg nurse was quite surprised when she saw
my newborn daughter for the first time, whose black
hair came down to her neck ; nor was she satisfied
until she had made my late husband bring home a
small soft brush, with which she delighted in curling
the baby locks two days old.

The shaving is done by the chief eunuch under
certain ceremonies, in which fumigation with a
species of a gum-arabic (somewhat similar to the
incense used in Eoman Catholic churches) plays an
important part. The first hair is considered of much
moment — it must not be burnt, nor carelessly thrown
away, but buried in the ground, thrown into the
Bea, or hidden in some crevice of a wall. Twenty to
thirty persons are always present during this cere-
mony, and the chief eunuch, who only on this occasion
acts as barber, runs a great risk of crushing the soft
and tender skull of the infant. He, as well as his
numerous assistants, then receive a valuable present
from my father.

The swathing band is removed on this day, rings
are put on the arms and legs, and attached to the
ears, and the child is dressed in a silk shirt and the
kofije, a cap of gold stuff with ear-flaps. After this
day everybody may go and look at it, for up to that
time no one but the parents, the slaves on duty, and
a few of the most intimate of the mother's friends
were allowed to do so. This precaution is taken on

96 MEMOIRS OF AN ABABIAN PRINCESS.

ten weeks before all preparations were completed and
all the provisions put on board ; the baking of the
captain biscuits alone took up much time, as about
one thousand persons had to be provided for ten
weeks. Salt beef we did not know, and preserves were
of no use, as they were " haram " (i.e., unclean, accor-
ding to our dietary laws) ; it was therefore necessary
to ship an immense quantity of live stock, an<J a dozen
milk cows; it is impossible to state what were the
quantities of fruit supplied by our forty-five planta-
tions for the voyage, but they amply account for the
many cases of dysentery which occurred.

All sons had permission to join in an expedition of
this kind; but only few of the daughters, on ac-
count of the inconveniences caused by women in
travelling; and only a couple of the most favoured
Sarari.

Few of us cared much about going to Oman, as the
proud Oman ladies rather regarded Zanzibar women
as uncivilized creatures. Even our brothers and
sisters there were not free from this conceit, and all
the members of our family born in Oman thought
themselves much better and of higher rank than any
of their African relations. In their opinion we were
somewhat like negroes, as we had been brought up
amongst these ; and our speaking any other language
but Arabic was the greatest proof of barbarity in their
eyes.

A great number of my brothers and sisters and
countless relations lived in Oman, most of the latter
in reduced circumstances, and supported by my
father's bounty. All these expected presents on his

MY FATHKB'S VOYAGE. 97

arrival, and, in consequence, his luggage was some-
what formidable.

It was also a welcome opportunity for sending
messages to friends in distant Asia, with whom none
but the feeblest correspondence had been kept up.
The general ignorance in writing was a great hin-
drance to this, and it can hardly be conceived to what
straits most people were put to meet this difficulty.
They had to get their letters written by strangers, and
strangers again were employed to read them. The
services of my brothers and of all the male slaves
conversant with the art where at such times in great
demand ; but if, from pressure of work or from un-
willingness, not an unfrequent case, these services
could not be secured, then the compositions were en-
trusted into the hands of utter strangers. Needless
to say that such epistles must have greatly fallen short
of what would be considered private and confidential
in this country.

The following may, for instance, prove a case in
point. A fine lady calls up her body-servant and says,
" Feruz, go to such or such a Kadi, and ask him to
write a beautiful letter to my friend in Oman for me ;
pay him whatever he asks for it." Then Feruz is told
quite a number of things which the Kadi is to put into
the letter. The Kadi, however, may be greatly pressed
for time, as he has a dozen such letters or more on
hand, therefore it can hardly be a matter of surprise
that he jumbles up the different orders. And Feruz
returns in triumph to his mistress : " Here are your _
letters, Bibi ! " The lady, however, being of a cautious
turn of mind, goes to some literate person, and desires

98 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PEINCESS.

to know what the letter contains. But picture to
yourself her amazement and indignation when she
hears that the letter, which was intended to convey
her congratulations upon some joyful event, is couched
in terms of the deepest condolence. Or in another
instance the case may have been exactly reversed.
Consequently nearly every letter has to be written
over several times and by different people, until it
contains at last something of the desired meaning.

Everything was ready at last. The ship Kitorie,
i.e., Victoria (in honour of Her Majesty Queen Vic-
toria), was to convey my father and his family ;
and two or three other vessels took on board his
retinue, the servants, and the luggage. This was
but a small fleet to carry such a crowd of pas-
sengers. However, Eastern travellers require very
little room and no cabin of their own ; everybody
looks out for a place on deck at night where he can
lie down and go to sleep on his mat.

The retinue and the slaves embarked first; next
followed the women about five o'clock in the morning ;
and, lastly, my father with his sons at noon. My
brothers Chalid and Madjid, with some of the younger
ones, accompanied the travellers on board, and re-
mained there until the ships weighed anchor, the
Kitorie firing a last parting salute of twenty-one guns
to the country and to the family collected on the
shore.

The house settled down now to great quiet, though
it was as crowded as before. Every one felt the
absence of the head of the family, and we led hence-
forth a somewhat retired life. My brother Chalid, as

my father's voyage. 99

the eldest of the remaining sons, now reigned in Zan-
zibar in my father's place ; several times a week he
came to see us to assure himself of our welfare, and
he went as often to Bet il Mtoni to look after its in-
mates there, but especially to receive any orders our
exalted step-mother might wish to give.

As head of the family, Chalid was very strict, and
we often had reason to complain of his harsh measures.
It may suffice to mention two instances here. A fire
broke out at Bet il Sahel once, which was fortunately
soon extinguished. When it began we all rushed to
the gates in our terror, but found them locked and
guarded by soldiers, who had been ordered there by
Chalid, to prevent our being recklessly exposed to
public view in the broad daylight.

Another time he rudely turned a distant relation of
ours, who possessed great influence in Zanzibar, out
of the mosque because he had dared to propose for one
of my sisters in that building, nor was the poor suitor
permitted to show himself for months after, either in
the daily assembly or in the mosque to which Chalid
went to prayers. It however came to pass that the
rejected suitor married another sister of ours some
years later, after Chalid's and my father's decease.

The latter had appointed my sister Chole to act as
lady superintendent during his absence both in Bet il
Sahel and Bet il Mtoni, to the great annoyance of
many. It may well be conceived that this " bright
star " of our house felt anything but comfortable in
her new position, reaping nothing but ingratitude and
jealousy from her office, since, notwithstanding her
sweetness of temper, she found it impossible to pleaae

58 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

was strictly observed at table. My father always
took his place at the upper end of the sefra ; next to
him, on his right and left, sat my elder brothers and
sisters, and the little ones (above seven years) took
the lower seats. The fashion of taking people in to
dinner is not practised.

There was always a great variety of viands, often as
many as fifteen dishes ; rice dressed in many ways. Of
meat and poultry, mutton and fowls were liked most.
There was fish besides, and Eastern bread, and all kinds
of sweets and dainties. As all the dishes are placed
on the table beforehand, there is no attendance re-
quired ; numerous eunuchs stand at some distance,
drawn up in line to carry out special orders. Their
services were mostly required by my father, who
would send in portions to the smaller children who
were not yet admitted to table, or to sick people.
At Bet il Mtoni he used to make me sit in a place
where he could reach my plate. We had the same
food as the grown-up people, but it was always a plea-
sure to us to have our dishes selected by him, and he
himself greatly enjoyed doing so.

On sitting down to table, every one said in an
undertone, but quite audibly : " In the name of the
merciful Lord," and on rising, " Thanked be the Lord
of the universe." My father always sat down and
rose first.

Clean plates were not handed to each person as is
the custom in Europe, but the various dishes (with
the exception of rice) were served up in small plates,
symmetrically arranged along the sefra, and two people
could always eat out of one plate.

OUR MEALS. 59

Fruit was never taken at meals, but either before or
some time after. Each person had a certain quantity
of the kinds in season sent to her rooms.

60 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

The second and last meal is taken every afternoon
at four o'clock precisely, and nothing more is served
after the same until breakfast next morning, except
coffee and fruits.

CHAPTEE Vm.

BIRTH AND FIRST YEARS OF THE LIFE OF A PRINCE

AND PRINCESS.

G2 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

they owe no thanks to their stupid and foolish
nurses.

After a warm water bath a kind of bandage is
wound round the child's body, its neck and armpits
are powdered with some strongly perfumed vegetable
powder, and* it is dressed in a calico shirt of an in-
grain dye, or in a muslin one. The little thing is
then placed on its back, its hands and feet are
straightened out to the utmost, and it is swathed in a
swathing-band up to the shoulders, the tiny arms and
legs being thus firmly confined. In this state the
child remains for forty days, except while the band is
removed twice a day to give it a bath. By this pro-
cess the child's body, it is thought, will be made
straight and faultless for life.

On the fortieth day a ceremony is performed to
which European children could not be subjected : all
the hair is shaved off the child's head. This may

LIFE OF A FRINGE AND PRINCESS. 63

The shaving is done by the chief eunuch under
certain ceremonies, in which fumigation with a
species of a gum-arabic (somewhat similar to the
incense used in Boman Catholic churches) plays an
important part. The first hair is considered of much
moment — it must not be burnt, nor carelessly thrown
away, but buried in the ground, thrown into the
Bea, or hidden in some crevice of a wall. Twenty to
thirty persons are always present during this cere-
mony, and the chief eunuch, who only on this occasion
acts as barber, runs a great risk of crushing the soft
and tender skull of the infant. He, as well as his
numerous assistants, then receive a valuable present
from my father.

64 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

account of the widespread belief in the evil eye and
other dreaded species of witchcraft.

Little children of this age in the East look, beyond
a doubt, much better than European ones, in whose
dresses white predominates. My opinion remains
unchanged on this point even after my long residence
in Europe, and my own children looked hideous to me
in their baby clothes when I compared them with
my little brothers and sisters in their pretty attire.

The smallest children are already strongly per-
fumed, and everything they use and wear — dresses,
sheets, bath-towels, and swathing clothes — are covered
all night with jessamine (different from that known
here), fumigated with amber and musk, and sprinkled
all over with ottar of roses before they are used. It
must be remembered that windows and doors are open
nearly all day throughout the year, which mitigates
to a certain extent any bad effect arising from this
curious partiality for strong scents.

Several charms are also attached to the child's
body on the fortieth day to protect it against the effects
of the evil eye. They are called "Haniaje," or "Hafid,"
and consist of all sorts of things; the lower class
using an onion, or a bit of garlic, or small shells, a
piece of bone stitched up in leather and worn on the
upper part of the left arm. In the upper classes
these kinds of charms are replaced by gold or silver
plates, worn on a chain round the neck, upon which
sentences from the Kuran are engraved. The boys
wear them only up to a certain age, the girls generally a
longer period. The favourite charm consists of a gold
or silver locket of pretty workmanship, likewise worn

LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 65

on a chain, two inches long by one inch wide, enclos-
ing a miniature of the " hurs " (guardian). No person
wearing a charm like this, bearing the holy name of
the Lord, may enter an unclean place — a proof surely
of the great reverence of a true Mahometan for his
Lord and Creator !

From a very early age the child is fed (besides
mother's milk) from a long spouted cup several times
a day with milk soup, boiled with rice flour and sugar;
the sucking bottle was quite unknown in my time.
It receives no other kind of food until it teethes ; after
that it may eat anything. It is not customary to"
carry the children about, they are put on the carpet
and then left to their own devices.

Another festivity follows at the first attempt of the
child to sit up by itself, for the exclusive benefit of its
little brothers and sisters. To celebrate this festive
event in befitting style, extra cakes and other good
things are provided. The mother, the nurses, and
the child are dressed in their best, and wear their
finest jewels. The child is then put into a small
square carriage on low wheels, stuffed with cushions.
The little legs are steadied upon a board fixed perpen-
dicularly to the poles, and the other children gather
all round.

Grains of Indian corn, which have been roasted in
a peculiar way, till they get as large as a thimble and
soft as wadding, are then mixed with a quantity of
small silver coin, and this compound is poured over
the child's head ; this done, the children rush upor
their little brother or sister to obtain the coins, not
seldom endangering the infant's life. The children

66 MEMOIRS OF AN AKABIAN PRINCESS.

of friends are sometimes invited on this occa-
sion.

The child runs about barefooted until it is strong
enough to wear sandals. Those worn by boys (watje)
nre much lighter than the kubkab of the girls, and
the latter are generally allowed to wear boys' sandals
until they are able to put on the kubkab. Stockings
are not worn by either sex ; ladies of rank use them
at times upon riding excursions, as custom requires
the ankles to be covered.

Besides the nurses, two or three slaves are appointed
as personal attendants to each child when three
months old, after which they are its property. The
number of slaves is gradually increased as the child
gets older, and in the case of death of any of them
the vacant place is filled up by another, or a certain
sum of money is paid instead by my father. The
little girls wear boys' caps in the house up to a certain
age.

Until their seventh year the princes live among the
women ; they then solemnly embrace the Mosaic faith,
the ceremony being followed by great festivities, in
which the state dignitaries and all high officials take
part. This, if possible, is enacted in the country and
in the presence of our father, and ends in public re-
joicings of three days' duration.

On this occasion the boy is presented with a quiet
mare, and with mounted attendants. The boys are
thus taught to ride from early youth, and in time
attain the dexterity of circus riders. It requires, of
course, a great deal more skill to gain a firm seat on
horseback without the good saddles and stirrups used

LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 67

in this country. So great was the importance my
father attached to perfect horsemanship, that the
slightest mishap while' out riding would call forth a
severe reprimand not only on his sons, hut on their
incompetent riding masters.

Indeed not one of us was spoiled in the least. My
father's high sense of justice and unparalleled
generosity was combined with great and firm con-
sistency. We were expected to obey strictly our tutors
and teachers, be they Arabs, Abyssinians, or Negroes.
He was deaf to our entreaties or complaints if ever we
made any — a severity which taught us to respect those
in authority over us, and to appreciate that authority
when we had come to years of discretion.

The nurses, even those whose term of service had
been but short, were highly esteemed and honoured
as long as they lived. They are always slaves by
birth, but as a rule they are freed in reward of their
fidelity and devotion. Especially the black nurses
distinguish themselves by their great attachment to
their charges ; the most anxious mother may quietly
leave her child with such an one who considers
herself a second mother to the child and treats it
accordingly. What a difference there is between
them and the half-hearted interest shown by the
nurses in this country ! Many a time have I been
unable to resist interceding in behalf of poor little
nurslings when some flagrant carelessness forced
itself upon my notice.

The contrast which exists between the wet nurses of
these parts and our Arab nurses may possibly be
explained by the fact that in most cases the former are

68 MEMOIRS OF AN AEABIAN PRINCESS.

compelled to forsake their own children in exchange
for a perfect little stranger — a sacrifice for which,
every mother will admit, no consideration of mere
money will compensate.

The position of a black wet nurse with regard to
the child entrusted to her by her mistress is quite a
different one. She has been in the latter's service for
years, may even have been born in her house : thus her
own interests and those of her master's are closely
knitted together. And further, there may be added a
circumstance of much weight— a black nurse is not
required to part with her child, but frequently, if not
always, she retains it. The child of the nurse receives
the same nourishment as its little foster brother or
sister, shares its pap, its fowl, its bath, wears its old
dresses, and by and by shares its toys. The child
grows up into a slave, but always preferred to others
except by very badly disposed people who can forget
their foster relation.

This patriarchal state of things generates more
faithful and devoted nurses than any European system
could achieve. I have often reflected how very hard
it must be for these poor women to part with their
own children for the sake of lucre, though I have
repeatedly been told that they are by no means so
sensible of this as I supposed. This, however, I cannot
understand. Could I ever entrust my poor helpless
child to a perfect stranger, and with the greatest in-
difference too ? Not for the world !

These black nurses, however, have one very bad
habit : they are acquainted with all sorts of dreadful
and absurd stories, which they tell the little children of

LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 69

three to five years to amuse and to keep them quiet.
The lion (simba), the leopard (tschni), the elephant
(tembo), and numberless witches * (watchawi) of course
play a prominent part in these fairy tales, some of
which are really blood-curdling. It is perfectly im-
possible to break them of this noxious habit.

Bearing children is unquestionably much easier in
the South than in Northern countries : colds, coughs,
and the other numerous, assailants of European
children are unknown there ; yet although the climate
is very hot, and indoor life is replete with enticing
comforts, the children are not given to sluggishness
and indolence ; they are allowed to roam in full liberty,
and from the mode of their garments their limbs are
nowise fettered. Gymnastics are unknown, but boys
from ten to twelve go in greatly for high jumping,
some of their flying leaps taking them over two horses.

Swimming in the sea is practised as eagerly, and
the boys teach themselves. At an early age they learn
to shoot, and very passionately too, sham fights being
very favourite pastimes. In spite of boys always
going about. armed to the teeth, provided with as much
ammunition as grown-up men, one hardly ever hears
of an accident arising from want of precaution.

I have already mentioned that the young princes
live in their fathers' houses up to a certain age, after
which a residence of their own is assigned to each, in
which they generally keep house with their mother if
she be living. They have a certain monthly allowance,
fully sufficient to supply all their wants. In the event
of marriage or an increase to the family, or even after

* A Suahely w*rd, the singular of which is mtschawi.

70 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

a time of irreproachable conduct, an extra allowance
may be looked for, but in no other case. However, on
the arrival of our father's ships once a year with new
goods, all our brothers and sisters living by them-
selves appeared with the whole of their family to claim
their individual share, whether they required it or not.
If any of them had the misfortune of exceeding their
allowance they found it no easy matter to extricate
themselves, as my father uever countenanced the fact,
and none would transgress more than once if he could
help it.

In case of war, which was unfortunately rather
frequent in Oman, all the princes, the half-grown
included, were expected to join and take their part
in the fight like the common soldier.

They were subjected to a very strict discipline, but
this only caused the sons to look up to their father
with greater respect and veneration. I often watched,
as a child, how my elder brothers would hurry to the
door, in advance of the slaves, to put the sandals
my father had left there in readiness for him.

There is but little to say about the education of
a princess : the first years of her life resembles that
of her brothers, with the exception that the latter
were allowed much more liberty out of the house
after completing their seventh year. The only thing
which deserves mention is, that at the birth of a
princess — to suit the hairdress in our country — a
broad comb, generally of silver, is placed under the
back of the newborn child's head, to give it a flat
shape. When a princess is married to one of her
numerous cousins, either in Oman or in Zanzibar,

LIFE OF A PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 71

she quits her paternal home, of course, in exchange
for that of her husband. The former, however, re-
mains open to her at all times, as the sole and real
place of shelter against any vicissitudes of life,
though she may go and live with a brother if she
prefers it. Each sister has her favourite brother,
and vice versd ; they maintain a fast friendship in
good and in bad times, and advise and help each
other to their utmost. Though this might prove
a source of deep joy in one way, it often gave rise
to bitter jealousies which the stoutest heart had
difficulty in overcoming— neither were the oppor-
tunities very rare in so large a family as ours.

It often happened, too, that a sister would intercede
with our father in mitigation of some foolish deed of a
favourite brother, and succeed entirely on the strength
of his evident preference for his daughters, and his
usual inability to refuse any of their requests. He
was particularly kind and courteous to his elder
daughters, walking towards them and seating them
by his side on a sofa, while the elder sons and the
little people stood by respectfully.

CHAPTEE IX.

SCHOOLING IN THE EAST.

On the whole the school (mdarse) is considered by
Eastern people, and likewise by us, as of little
moment and consequence. School in Europe is the
centre of life in Church and State, alike to prince
and to citizen ; from its efficiency depends essentially
the cultivation of mind and knowledge as well as
most future prospects. In the East the " mdarse "
is altogether a matter of secondary consideration,
and for a good many people it does not exist at all.
Before discussing this point farther I wish to say
something about what we called " school* ' at our
house.

Between the age of six or seven all children— boys
and girls — had to enter the mdarse ; the latter were
only required to learn to read, the former both to
write and read. At Bet il Mtoni and at Bet il Sahel
there was only one lady teacher, respectively, specially
imported by our father from Oman. I need not say
that unforeseen holidays, brought about by our
teacher's occasional sickness, did not meet with
proper regret on our part.

We had no separate schoolroom ; our lessons were

SCHOOLING IN THE EAST. 73

said in an open gallery, to -which pigeons and parrots,
peacocks and ricebirds, found free ingress. We also
had an uninterrupted view of the courtyard and its
busy life there. All the furniture of the schoolroom
consisted of a single large mat. Our school property
was equally simple — all we required was a Kur&n
on a stand (mar fa), a small inkstand containing
homemade ink and the well-bleached shoulder-blade
of a camel for a slate, on which the writing with ink
is easy, without the irritating, jarring noise produced
on the slate. Slaves have to see to the cleaning of
these blades.

The first thing we learned was the very compli-
cated Arab ABC, after which, for want of any other
spelling-book, reading was taught from the Kuran,
and the boys copied from it. Those who could read
pretty fluently read in a chorus, and rather loudly
too. But this was the extent of our schooling, for
we never got any explanation of what we were
reading about. Hence the fact that perhaps one only
amongst a thousand really understands and is able
to explain the sense and the precepts of the Ma-
hometan holy book, though there may be eighty
in every hundred who have learned at least half of
it by heart. To meditate or to speculate upon its
contents is considered irreligious and condemnatory ;
people are simply to believe what they are taught,
and this maxim is rigorously carried out.

After a repast of fruit we assembled at seven

o'clock in the morning on our mat, and there awaited

the arrival of our teacher, whiling away the time

with wrestling, boxing, jumping, and with "perilous
6

74 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

attempts at climbing the railings, &c. A watch was
set at a corner of the gallery to inform us, by a
cough, of the teacher's approach, upon which we
would promptly seat ourselves, looking extremely
demure, only to rebound, like so many indiarubber
balls, respectfully to shake hands with the dreaded
one and to wish her good morning. She always
carried the much detested bamboo cane in one hand,
and a large brass inkstand in the other. Until she
had taken her seat we had to stand up before her
in file, and were finally allowed to sit down ourselves
cross-legged around her on the matting.

She now began to recite the first Sura of the Kuran,
which may be called the Mahometan Lord's Prayer,
echoed in chorus by us and concluded with Amin
(not Amen). Then we repeated what we had learned
the day before, and took a new piece in reading and
writing. Lessons lasted till nine o'clock precisely,
and were resumed after breakfast up to second
prayers at noon.

Each of us was allowed to bring some slaves to
school to join in our lessons ; they sat at some dis-
tance behind us, while we grouped ourselves as we
pleased. There were neither fixed places nor a
division into forms. Eeports which are looked
forward to with such feverish anxiety in European
schools were unknown to us. Our respective mothers
and our fathers received only a verbal report if any
of us made very good progress, and in the reverse
case, or if very good or bad conduct called for com-
ment. Our teacher had received special orders to
punish us severely whenever she deemed it necessary,

SCHOOLING IN THIS EAST. 75

and we gave her often enough occasion to make use
of her cane.

Besides reading and writing, we were taught a
little arithmetic, that is, ciphering in writing up to
100, and up to 1000 mentally; everything beyond
that was thought to be of evil. No pains were taken
with either grammar or orthography ; the very com-
plicated "Ilnahu" can only be acquired by much
reading in after years. Of such sciences as history,
geography, mathematics, physics, and others I never
heard — I only was made acquainted with these
branches of science when I came to Europe. I am
not sure, however, that I am so much better off
now for the smattering I have acquired of these
things at great pains, than the people on the other
side. This only I know, that my increased know-
ledge has not saved me from being repeatedly de-
ceived and swindled. Oh, ye happy ones at home who
are spared the inevitable sorrows which lie beneath
the dazzling gauze of civilization !

The style of our tuition did not admit of home
tasks of course, which take up so many hours in this
country.

The teacher, feared as she may be, is treated with
great respect by everybody, and by her pupils
especially is treated with veneration in after life.

One thing, however, schoolchildren in the East
and in Europe have in common — the natural instinct
of gaining the teacher's favour by means of little
bribes. When my children used to ask me for a few
pence to buy a nosegay or a flower-pot for Miss
So-and-so, I was always reminded of my own school-

76 MEMOIRS OF. AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

days. This trait belongs, I believe, to every race
and nation. Before we ever dreamt of the existence
of foreign countries or of their schools and school-
children, my brothers and sisters and myself tried
to ingratiate ourselves with our teacher by taking
her all sorts of things, sweets in preference ; every
day she received a goodly portion of the French
goodies our father gave us. I know not whether the
other effect of this kind of present was a premeditated
one, but certain it is that a repeated result was a
violent toothache — and a holiday for us.

There was no fixed term for attending school.
What was considered necessary to know had to be
learned in any case ; but it depended entirely upon
the capacity of each individual if this knowledge was
acquired in one year, in two, or more.

Fancy work was not taught at school, it was from
our mothers that we acquired the art of sewing,
embroidery, and lace-making, at which most of them
were very proficient, though we were not expected
to attain any particular standard. Some of my
sisters, for instance, who had acquired great skill
in such work, could easily have made a living by
it, had they ever needed; others, again, never got
beyond sewing on a button.

There exist some schools, but only for children of
poor parents. Every one who is at all able to afford
it, keeps a private tutor or a governess. Sometimes
the secretary of the master of the house undertook
to give lessons to the girls — however, only as long
as they were quite young.

This brief mention is all I have to say of our

SCHOOLING IN THE EAST. 77

schools. It is but natural that I should sometimes
be tempted to draw comparisons between them and
European ones, between the over-cultured hero and
the ignorance of the children there. I myself was
born, bred, and educated there, arid my julgment,
which is based upon my experience both in Arabia
and Europe, and which I feel to be quite free from
any prejudice whatever, may perhaps be of interest.

In general I am of opinion that Europeans exact
just that too much from a school, as the Arabs demand
too little. As yet no people has discovered the right
middle course, nor will it ever be found ; contrasts
like these will exist as long as the world lasts.

There is hardly any science which the children are
not taught here, and to such an extent that the childish
understanding cannot possibly retain all. With the
beginning of school life parents see hardly any-
thing of their children. The latter are so much
overtasked, even after their regular school-hours, that
home life and influence are almost at an end. There
is a continued race and chase all day from task to
task, and how much of these studies will be of lasting
value to them ? How much of it is crammed, only to
be forgotten again as quickly ! To my idea, a few
extra hours spent in their home would leave a healthier
impression on their minds and memories by and by.

For five or more hours daily the poor children are
cooped up in a schoolroom which is insufferably hot
and stifling. In one school, with more than two
hundred children, I remarked that there were only
four tumblers. Can any one bo surprised under such
circumstances if a child sickens? However much

78 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

care and pains may be taken for its welfare at home,
they are rendered quite useless by tbe effect of the
foul school air. You need only look at some of these
children to make your heart ache ! Was not our large,
lofty gallery a much fitter place ? What is the use
of all accomplishments if they are acquired by ruining
health ?

Of that feeling of respect which was inculcated into
us in early youth for our parents, teachers, and tutors,
and old age in general, there is not much to be per-
ceived here. The lessons in religion also seem to me
to miss their aim ; the children are overburdened with
learning numberless dates of ecclesiastical history,
while their hearts remain a barren soil.

The word of God and His holy commandments
should be taught more, and less time be bestowed on
subtle inquiries into indifferent matter. It will
surely always remain a vain longing of the short-
sighted human mind to fathom the innermost secrets
of nature and creation. I once read a beautiful and
impressive simile. Man's short life was there com-
pared with that of a moth, which first saw the light
of day within the walls of a large cathedral ; the
moth's short span of life expired long long before it
could realize one hundredth part of all the beauty and
mystery surrounding it — such is the life of man amid
the wonders of the universe. Let wise men continue
their investigations and their broodings ; but let them
cease cramming children's minds with dry unprofitable
stuff that the brain cannot digest and the soul sickens
with and dies.

I was shocked, in looking over some statistics on

SCHOOLING IN THE EAST. 79

lunacy, to find that the majority of these deplorable
cases were returned from former students of high
schools and universities. A good many of these surely
were the victims of overpressure. I could not help
thinking of my native home, where lunatic asylums
are not needed, where I never saw but two maniacs,
and never heard of any others — and of these two, one
was a negress, the other a native of Hindustan.

As I previously said, I have no desire to criticise
European culture, nor am I able to do so; I only
wished to speak of my own observations, which con-
vinced me that there are many sad failures in the
European educational system. But at all events, I
shall be pardoned if I question th9 right which
Europeans take upon themselves in deploring the fate
of a people as yet " unenlightened,' ' and their justifi-
cation in forcibly imparting their civilization on the
same. I am firmly convinced, Arab born and bred as
I am, that all efforts on the part of Europeans to do
away, at a sweep, with the incarnate ignorance of
Mahometans, and to fly the flag of science and
learning, with even the smallest amount of precipita-
tion, will meet with barren effect.

Other nations, like the Japanese for instance,
whose creed and precepts are less binding than the
Mahometan, probably offer a more grateful soil — the
more so as they are naturally more desirous of step-
ping into the footprints of Europeans.

People frequently deride the Turkish half-culture,
and y€t the Turks have striven much harder to become
civilized than is at all good for them. They have only
weakened themselves without achieving the desired

80 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

CHAPTEE X.

YEARLY OUTFIT. TOILET AND FASHION IN OUB

HOUSEHOLD.

The day for the yearly distribution of these goods
depended, of course, upon the return of the ships. It
is but natural that this event was impatiently looked

126 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

manners, however, she was very charitablo, and a
severe but just mistress to her servants.

She always tried to pick out and to own the
handsomest slaves, whom she loaded with the most
costly weapons and jewels. Everything about her
showed a fairy-like display of riches and splendour.

I was the only one of all her sisters who managed
to get on with her, notwithstanding the bad treat-
ment I had suffered at her hands in early years.
Once when I seized a favourable moment to represent
to her how much she was blamed for her extravagant
habits, and especially for keeping such a great num-
ber of slaves, she quietly replied, that she was sure
she would not live long, and that she intended partly
to spend her money on the poor, partly on herself, as
fast as she could, so as to leave us nothing. She was
very rich, having inherited a considerable fortune from
Ali, besides her own share, but she always continued
to live in our paternal home, regardless of the general
feeling of dislike entertained for her.

The opinion of her fellow-creatures troubled her
very little. Though residing under the same roof with
several hundred people, she took no notice whatever
of any of them, and only lived for and among her
slaves. Thus it came to pass that we were informed
too late of her severe illness. Exasperated at what
she considered want of sympathy on Chole's part and
on mine, she refused to receive our visits, and much
as we were grieved we could not force ourselves upon
her and violate that firm will of hers. When she
felt she was dying from rapid consumption, she made
all her servants swear solemnly that no one should

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 127

see her in death, except the woman who would per-
form the last offices. Her commands were carried
out to the letter, for the moment she expired her
rooms were locked. We were only admitted after the
body had been laid out, covered with camphor and
wrapped in a sevenfold winding-sheet, the face in-
cluded, as prescribed by our religious rites. Over-
whelmed with grief, I knelt down by the body and
embraced it, unmindful of the scared bystanders, who
wanted to drag me away, and who warned me of the
danger of infection.

In spite of the difference of our characters, I really
had liked Schewane ; I always took her part, for she
deserved to be loved by all who could overlook her
rough manner and her eccentricities. Pride and
ambition were her besetting sins — no wonder she
made many enemies, especially among her elders.

Before her death she made ample provision for her
town slaves and for the upper slaves on her estates.
She not only set them free, but bequeathed all their
costly arms and jewels to them, besides one whole
estate for their maintenance. She did not wish that
those who had worked for her so long should have to
begin life again among strangers.

6. Mctle.

Like Schew&ne, Metle was tho daughter of an
Abyssinian ; but she had so fair a complexion that
nobody could have guessed her descent. She and
her brother Ealub were my playmates during my
stay at Bet il Mtoni. Her mother was totally para-
lyzed, and could not devote herself much to the

128 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

rearing of her children ; nevertheless, they turned
out excellent and worthy persons.

The poor sufferer was obliged to live on the ground-
floor, which was intended only for store-rooms, and
naturally very damp and unsuitable for an invalid
like her.

A sheltered place had been erected in front of her
room, close to the banks of the Mtoni, about a yard
in height, to which the sick one was carried in the
day, and where she was attended on by her children
and her slaves. Her step-children and their mothers
frequently came to keep her company; and my
mother in particular used to read to her from the
Kuran and other holy books, for, like most of the
other women who became members of our family after
they were grown up, she could not read herself.

Metle and Ealub were a dear little couple; they
loved their mother fondly, and only thought of
pleasing her. Metle especially, my senior by some
years, was very sweet, and a most unselfish play-
mate..

After my father's death she was my nearest neigh-
bour on her estate, and during our stay in the
country we met daily. Ealub delighted to break in
upon us unawares with his friends, and so cause a
great deal of confusion, as we were not allowed to
show ourselves to strangers ; and I am bound to say
he always succeeded !

After her mother's death, Metle used to spend the
rest of the year at Bet il Mtoni, until she married a
distant cousin in the town. She was very happy
with her two charming boys, whom she always carried

YBABLY OUTFIT. 85

East — neither that fickle goddess, at whose shrine
there is so much blind and reckless worship in these
enlightened lands of Europe.

Of whatever rank or station an Arab woman may
be, her dress consists only of a shirt reaching down
to the ankles, trousers (not drawers), and a kerchief
for the head. The material varies, of course. Rich
people have gold brocades of many patterns, velvets
and silks richly trimmed. Daring the hot season plain
light calicoes or muslins are worn. Shirt and
trousers are never of the same pattern. The shirt
must not be too long, that it may not hide the rich
embroidery of the trousers or the two anklets; a
number of little golden bells are suspended from one
of these, which make a pretty tinkling sound at every
step. Two long tasselled ribbons hang loosely over
the back or on both sides of the head, from the band
that is worn round the forehead. The silk kerchief
reaches down to the ankles.

In her walks an Arab lady puts on the " Scheie,"
which is shawl, waterproof, and cloak, all in one.
The schele is a large shawl or mantilla of black silk,
more or less richly trimmed with gold or silver
borders, according to the wealth and taste of its
owner. This is the only wrapper an Arab lady uses
until it is completely worn out, its fashion never
changing ; even the greatest and richest. ladies do not
possess more than one schele at a time.

That an Oriental lady, in the idle indolence of her
exotic home, and in the uncultured condition of her
mind, should give her finery a good deal of thought,
does not seem so very unpardonable. But what

86 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS*

struck me, years ago, before I became accustomed to
the fact, was that the ladies I came into contact with
in my new European home, and who had, I knew,
from their childhood up, received the most thorough
and comprehensive mental training — that these ladies,
I say, should never find any other topic of con-
versation but the one all-important, all-engrossing —
dress.

During the rainy season the great Arab ladies wear
indoors the "djocha," a kind of cloak of cloth
trimmed with gold and silver embroidery. It is worn
open in front, only held together over the breast with
gold lacing. The elder ladies prefer a Persian shawl
to the djocha. This is the only covering to protect
us against the comparative coolness of winter or rainy
season.

I may mention that we had, in cases of emergency,
a kind of heating apparatus. It consisted of a brass
bowl, some 8 inches deep by 12 inches wide, on a
three-legged stand, which was filled with burning
charcoal, and placed in the centre of the room, the
charcoal fire producing a very pleasant and mild heat.
This " mankah " served at the same time to roast the
green, freshly-gathered cobs of Indian corn. Doors
and windows were, however, always left open, even
when we had such a fire in the room.

CHAPTER XL

A PLANTATION.

My father owned forty-five plantations, scattered all
over the island. Fifty to sixty slaves were employed
as labourers on most of these estates, and as many as
five hundred on the larger ones, with an Arab overseer
to each estate. Two only of the plantations had real
palaces, six to eight had villas, and the remainder
merely had houses for the officials, and farm-build-
ings. For a stay of any length we could only visit
one of the first.

During my father's lifetime we could but seldom
leave the town, and then for a short time only, as he
was always too busily engaged, and preferred staying
at home. But as we all very much enjoyed such
visits to a plantation, we generally teased him till he
granted us permission to go.

These excursions always required great prepara-
tions, since it was no easy matter to provide properly
for so many people on a plantation some eight miles
distant, to which all the provisions had to be conveyed
upon the heads of negro slaves. Several hundred of
these came some days prior to our departure to carry
off all that was requisite. To the great annoyance

88 MEMOIRS OF 4N ARABIAN PRINCESS.

of our cooks and chief eunuchs, into whose manage-
ment it was given, so much was destroyed and lost on
the road, that douhle the quantity actually required
had to he sent out. The overseers of the plantations
we visited always came off very well on these occa-
sions, for they were allowed to keep for their own use
what we left behind.

The night before the start most of us were too
excited to retire to rest, so instead we went and in-
spected our lovely white asses which were to carry us,
their tails having been dyed red with henna.

But those who happened to have no ass of their
own had either to stay at home, or to borrow one —
my father having no time to trouble himself with
such matters.

Matters were, however, greatly simplified when our
destination was a plantation on the seashore, for there
were plenty of boats to convey us and our provisions.

These excursions offered the welcome opportunity
to all the ladies for showing off their finery. How
they vied to outdo each other in splendour ! Indeed,
if one of these " belles " had set her heart upon
wearing a particular new garment, which did not
come home in time, she would bemoan her dis-
appointment by staying behind.

Our start was generally fixed for half-past five in
the morning, immediately after the first prayer. For
hours there has been noise and confusion in the court-
yard below — half-a-dozen voices calling down the
stairs, and as many shouting back ; slaves tumbling
over each other, and vociferating loudly — some-
times even cutting their arguments short by kicks and

A PLANTATION. 89

cuffs. And mingled with all these various sounds
you heard the bray of the asses, intended, no doubt,
to remind you that they have been saddled for the
last hour.

Everything is ready at last, and the animals are
led into the road, and mounted. The slender and
weak eunuchs are likewise on horseback ; the black
slaves, however, are on foot. During the very
pleasant ride which now begins, many harmless
tricks are played and enjoyed to while away the hour.

The whole cavalcade looks very picturesque: the
white donkeys with their rich trappings of gold and
silver plates, jingling at every step, their high saddles
and splendid saddle-cloths, as well as our sturdy
runners in their clean white robes and their glittering
muskets. As the sun gets hotter, one of these slaves
runs by the side of each lady's animal with a large
parasol to protect the rider from the glare. Some of
the slaves trot along with one of the smaller children,
while the bigger ones, who cannot yet ride by them-
selves, are placed on the saddle with a eunuch.

We passed through the town at dawn, and kept
close together as long as we were within the city
walls ; but as soon as we had emerged into the open
country, all restraint was over, and we hurried along
as best we could. However much the eunuchs might
try to keep the procession together by calling out in
their thin voices to the riders of very fiery animals,
we generally arrived at the end of our journey in
separate small detachments.

The first and oldest of our slaves and the family of

the overseer, if he was married, were in attendance to

134 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

that Nunu had cut off the eyebrows and eyelashes of
the child with a pair of scissors !

No child in the house was from that time left un-
garded for a single moment. Nunu possessed a
knowledge of locality hardly credible in a blind
person, and she moved about with the greatest ease
and quickness. She was to be found everywhere, and
as busy as a wicked little fairy. Her greatest pleasure
was to smash whatever she could lay hold of, china,
glassware, and particularly our pretty Asiatic water-
coolers.

One of her peculiarities was that she insisted on
being treated as though she could see. When the
guns announced sunset, she ordered her room to be
lighted up. She insisted upon selecting her wardrobe
herself, and when she was being dressed by her servants
she always stood before a looking-glass. When she
heard that any one had fine hair, or beautiful eyes
and brows, she subjected those parts to a critical
examination, only to observe that she was either
disappointed or pleased.

To the great satisfaction of all, Nunu became more
reasonable and sedate as she grew up, and in conse-
quence she was no longer regarded with such horror ;
indeed, she gained on everyone's affection as her
good qualities began to shine more prominently. The
poor unfortunate girl lost her faithful nurse soon after
her parents, and as she could not live by herself without
some help and supervision, our sister Asche took
charge of her and kept house together with hen

ABOUT SOME OF MT BROTHERS AND SISTERS* 135

10. Schembua and Farschu.

I must not omit to mention in this place two nieces
of mine, Schembua and Farschu, who were at school
with me and who afterwards had the same party
views as myself. They lived opposite our place, and
as the streets in Zanzibar are very narrow, we could
easily talk together from our windows without deaf and
dumb language — discuss fashions, household matters,
and politics. In the last case we observed the pre-
caution of stationing such servants at the corner as
would not be likely to attract attention, who would
warn us of the approach of an enemy by dropping a
stick, by coughing, or by a low whistle. About these
times I shall have to say more further on.

Schembua and Farschu were my brother Chalid's
only children, and from their earliest youth they had
been so fond of each other that they were almost
inseparable. This brought them frequently into
conflict with their mothers, who were exceedingly
jealous of each other. Schembua, some years older
than her sister, was gentle and modest, just the
reverse of Farschu, and so sensible that she took
exciting almost a mother's care of her.

They were both very rich, having inherited the
whole of their father's lar^e fortune. In their love
for each other they resolved not to divide their
property, but to live together and share their pos-
sessions. But this arrangement greatly displeased
Farschu's mother, an Abyssinian, who wanted
her daughter to shake herself free. Farschu,
who was very determined, refused to accede to this

82 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

forward to ; it signified to us the beginning of a new
season of fashion, and the style and quality of our
finery for a whole year depended upon the contents
of the ships lying in our ports.

The materials for clothing, costly and plain, were

YEARLY OUTFIT. , 83

84 MEMOIKS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

their work out to be done, and paid heavily in pro-
portion. The slaves who had been brought up to some
kind of trade were more highly valued than those who
had not had this advantage, and were better able to
make a living when freed. In Oman, where but few
slaves are kept, it is a standing rule to have them
taught a trade that will be of use to their masters as
well as to themselves. For this reason, slaves are
frequently sent from Zanzibar to Oman for a practical
education. A negro or a negress of this class always
obtained a higher price.

If any visitors happened to be staying with us at
the time of distribution, they always received, by my
father's orders, a share of the presents, and even of
money — the residue of the cargoes being put aside in
store for our numerous relatives that came to see us
from Oman in the course of the year.

Our yearly outfit was of course adapted to, and very
much simplified by, our close proximity to the equator,
where we only know the four seasons by name. It
would have been rather a difficult matter to provide
garments for autumn, winter, and spring wear all at the
same time. The only winter we have is the rainy
season for some six or eight weeks, with a temperature
as low as 70° P. During this more wet than cold
season, velvets and stouter materials are worn.

All clothing was hand-made, as sewing-machines
were unknown in my time. All dresses rejoice in a
uniformly simple cut, alike for men and women,
differing only in materials and trimmings. The
abomination of tight-lacing, or lacing of any kind, has
not yet found its way into the ejegant world of the

YEARLY OUTFIT. 85

East — neither that fickle goddess, at whose shrine
there is so much blind and reckless worship in these
enlightened lands of Europe.

In her walks an Arab lady puts on the " Scheie,"
which is shawl, waterproof, and cloak, all in one.
The schele is a large shawl or mantilla of black silk,
more or less richly trimmed with gold or silver
borders, according to the wealth and taste of its
owner. This is the only wrapper an Arab lady uses
until it is completely worn out, its fashion never
changing ; even the greatest and richest ladies do not
possess more than one schele at a time.

86 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

CHAPTER XL

A PLANTATION.

88 MEMOIRS OF A# ARABIAN PRINCESS.

of our cooks and chief eunuchs, into whose manage-
ment it was given, so much was destroyed and lost on
the road, that double the quantity actually required
had to be sent out. The overseers of the plantations
we visited always came off very well on these occa-
sions, for they were allowed to keep for their own use
what we left behind.

But those who happened to have no ass of their
own had either to stay at home, or to borrow one —
my father having no time to trouble himself with
such matters.

Matters were, however, greatly simplified when our
destination was a plantation on the seashore, for there
were plenty of boats to convey us and our provisions.

These excursions offered the welcome opportunity
to all the ladies for showing off their finery. How
they vied to outdo each other in splendour ! Indeed,
if one of these "belles" had set her heart upon
wearing a particular new garment, which did not
come home in time, she would bemoan her dis-
appointment by staying behind.

A PLANTATION. 89

cuffs. And mingled with all these various sounds
you heard the bray of the asses, intended, no doubt,
to remind you that they have been saddled for the
last hour.

The first and oldest of our slaves and the family of

the overseer, if he was married, were in attendance to

90 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

receive us. But the overseer himself, conformably
with Eastern etiquette, did not show himself during
our whole stay.

As it was impossible to provide the necessary
bedding for so many people, everybody lay down to
sleep on horse and saddle-cloths, their arm for a
pillow.

Dear old Ledda, the head of the customs, had
always shown, though a Banjan, rare loyalty and

A PLANTATION. 91

great personal attachment to our family, and nothing
pleased the grey-haired star-worshipper more than to
think of some new amusement for us children. He
never forgot to send us pretty and curious presents,
ordered from his Indian home, which invariably
included, besides sweetmeats, several baskets of fire-
works (fetak). He always sent an extra relay of these
latter when we made an excursion into the country, so
that our evenings were made very pleasant, watching
the effect of the beautiful Indian pyrotechnical con-
structions. But, failing those, we spent our evenings
in the gardens, looking on at the games and dancing
of the negroes. The negro dances are not nearly as
ugly and uncouth as some African travellers describe
them. When I first saw Europeans dance I did not
admire the art either, for the continual turning round
of the dancers made me feel giddy only to look. We
generally took them with us to the plantations for our
evening's entertainment. Their performances are
very clever, and they are well paid for them. They
may not receive the fabulous sums that are lavished
on great dancers in Europe, still they are sufficiently
well paid to enable them to return to their Indian
homes in gladness, notwithstanding their extravagant
habits. They are, however, held in little esteem in
our country.

Such evenings in the East are truly romantic.
Fancy a numerous company of all complexions,
elegantly dressed — though somewhat fantastically and
gaudily— standing, sitting, and squatting in all direc-
tions, laughing and making harmless fun with all the
unconventional ease of Southerners — the whole

92 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

framed in with the foliage of the most magnificent
trees, and bathed in the silvery light of an intensive
tropical moon ! Description fails me to do justice to
a scene which, however, once beheld, can never be
forgotten.

But the hour came at last, though not before the
greater part of the night was spent, when we felt it
was time to break the charm and retire to our rest.

On these excursions we often took a funny little
French girl and her two wild brothers, fourteen and
fifteen years old, the children of the French Consular
doctor. They all three talked Suahely very well, and
sang most amusing songs. The first time Claire
came with us, she caused a general burst of laughter
at bed-time, when she appeared in her white European
nightgown. We had never heard of such a thing
before, for everybody in the East lies down to sleep in
the dress worn during the day — at least, in washing
dresses, not in a costume made of velvet or gold
brocade.

During a protracted stay, our father used to pay us
flying visits of a few hours at a time, for he always
returned to town in the evening. On such occasions
mounted couriers kept up an uninterrupted communi-
cation between the town and our plantation.

We rarely undertook these excursions at harvest-
time, so as not to interrupt the slaves in their labour.
Cloves have a peculiarity of ripening quite suddenly,
so that it requires the greatest exertions to gather in
the crops at the right moment. Bice, too, makes a
quick harvest, while more time can be taken over
gathering in the sugar-cane, cocoanuts, swoet potatoes,

A PLANTATION. 93

and other produce. Cattle is never used for farming
purposes, and scarcely any agricultural implements,
not even the most simple plough, is known. All the
work is performed by hand ; the ground is dug with
spades, and the rice cut in sheaves with a common
little straight knife. The master or the mistress of
the estate frequently joins in the work during the clove
harvest, to stimulate their negro slaves, whose inborn
idleness requires a great deal of shaking up ; but since
this cannot be done individually, they have a task set
them, proportionate with their age and strength.
Anything in excess of this task is rewarded, and the
shortcomings are punished. The only really busy time
of the year, then, is the harvest. The ground in that
gracious clime almost takes care of itself. No manure
is ever used, except the straw that is sometimes
burnt.

The length of our stay was determined by my
father, and he fixed the day on which, between half-
past six and half-past seven o'clock, p.m., we had to
be back in town. The family of the overseer received
suitable gifts on our departure, which my father him-
self selected, and we were always accompanied some
distance by our lady friends from the neighbouring
estates. An escort of about one hundred and fifty
soldiers were sent to meet and conduct us into the
city. In spite of their heavy accoutrements (every
man carried musket, shield, lance, sword, and dagger)
they always managed to keep pace with our beasts.

We were not allowed to neglect our evening prayers,
even during the journey. The company halted some-
where near the town, generally at Ngambo, or at

94 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Muasimodja, and prayexs were said in the open air on
mats which everybody carried for the purpose. Sup-
posing a mat was lost or left behind, the worshipper
would kneel on the giant leaf of a moz tree (plantain),
as none other but a vegetable substance may be
used.

When it was dark a number of very large lanterns
were lighted ; then we once more resumed our saddles
and entered through the gates like a procession from
fairyland.

CHAPTER XII.

MY FATHER'S VOYAGE.

I was about nine years old when my father determined
to visit his old empire of Oman, on a tour of inspec-
tion, as was his wont in the course of every three to
four years, my eldest brother, Tucni (incorrectly
called Sueni at times) acting as regent and head of
the family at Mesket.

There was besides an urgent reason this time for
my father's voyage. The Persians had made several
incursions in the neighbourhood of Bender Abbas,
which, though of little account in themselves, might
easily have caused complications of a more serious
nature. This small territory in Persia, rather impor-
tant from the fact of its commanding the entrance to
the Persian Gulf, had not only given infinite trouble,
but proved a great expense to my father ever since his
occupation of it. We were deprived of it again by
the Persians at a later date, which was hardly a matter
for regret ; there was no peace for us till they had
succeeded, neither could we blame their efforts.

We owned no steamers at the time I speak of,
and the departure of our sailing-ships was retarded
by the absence of fair wind. It took at least eight or

96 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

ten weeks before all preparations were completed and
all the provisions put on board ; the baking of the
captain biscuits alone took up much time, as about
one thousand persons had to be provided for ten
weeks. Salt beef we did not know, and preserves were
of no use, as they were " haram " (i.e., unclean, accor-
ding to our dietary laws) ; it was therefore necessary
to ship an immense quantity of live stock, an<J a dozen
milk cows; it is impossible to state what were the
quantities of fruit supplied by our forty-live planta-
tions for the voyage, but they amply account for the
many cases of dysentery which occurred.

All sons had permission to join in an expedition of
this kind ; but only few of the daughters, on ac-
count of the inconveniences caused by women in
travelling; and only a couple of the most favoured
Sarari.

A great number of my brothers and sisters and
countless relations lived in Oman, most of the latter
in reduced circumstances, and supported by my
father's bounty. All these expected presents on his

MY father's voyage. 97

arrival, and, in consequence, his luggage was some-
what formidable.

The following may, for instance, prove a case in
point. A fine lady calls up her body-servant and says,
" Feruz, go to such or such a Kadi, and ask him to
write a beautiful letter to my friend in Oman for me ;
pay him whatever he asks for it." Then Feruz is told
quite a number of things which the Kadi is to put into
the letter. The Kadi, however, may be greatly pressed
for time, as he has a dozen such letters or more on
hand, therefore it can hardly be a matter of surprise
that he jumbles up the different orders. And Feruz
returns in triumph to his mistress : " Here are your
letters, Bibi ! " The lady, however, being of a cautious
turn of mind, goes to some literate person, and desires

98 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

to know what the letter contains. Bat picture to
yourself her amazement and indignation when she
hears that the letter, which was intended to convey
her congratulations upon some joyful event, is couched
in terms of the deepest condolence. Or in another
instance the case may have been exactly reversed.
Consequently nearly every letter has to be written
over several times and by different people, until it
contains at last something of the desired meaning.

my father's voyage. 99

Another time he rudely turned a distant relation of
ours, who possessed great influence in Zanzibar, out
of the mosque because he had dared to propose for one
of my sisters in that building, nor was the poof suitor
permitted to show himself for months after, either in
the daily assembly or in the mosque to which Chalid
went to prayers. It however came to pass that the
rejected suitor married another sister of ours some
years later, after Chalid's and my father's decease.

100 MEMOIRS OF AN ABABIAN PRINCESS.

everybody ; few only were reasonable enough to con-
sider that hers was but a limited power. It was no
fault of hers that she was so much preferred by my
father ; unfortunately, however, envy was too strong —
it positively blinded all reason in her opponents.

In the meantime our vessels had sailed several
' times between Oman and Zanzibar, and brought news
and presents from our father, which always created
much joy and pleasure in our midst.

Unfortunately, our brother Chalid was shortly
after called away by our Lord. Madjid, the son next
in age, now succeeded in the regency, and contrived
to gain the goodwill of all by his kind and gentle
manners.

A vessel arrived at last one day from Mesket with
the joyful news that our father was about to leave
Oman for Zanzibar. It soon spread all over the
country, and caused great satisfaction everywhere, as
he had now been absent three years, and had been
missed very much. Those even who were not per-
sonally attached to him looked forward to his return
with pleasure on account of the many presents he was
expected to bring back with him from Oman for young
and old, and preparations for his reception were made
everywhere, just as if we were about to celebrate one
of our great holy days.

However, the time which was generally allowed for
the voyage from Oman to Zanzibar passed away, and
no ships arrived, which caused great uneasiness to us
and to the whole country. The Arabs are fond of
consulting so-called seers in the future, and nowhere
this habit prevails so much as in Zanzibar. I verily

MY FATHER'S VOYAGE. 101

believe no gipsies in Europe can in any way equal the
craftiness and mendacity of their Suahelian brethren ;
but, then, where else would one find such unbounded
and foolish credulity to encourage their wiles.

No means were left untried which possibly might
help to throw a light on the whereabouts of the three
overdue ships ; some of the oracles then were fetched
many miles off from the most remote nooks in the
country, most of them belonging to the tribe of the
Wachadimu — if old, they were brought in triumph
riding on donkeys.

The most remarkable of all these diviners was sup-
posed to be a woman, of whom the story went that
she, or rather her unborn child, could look into the
future. Such a monster was quite beyond anything
that had ever been heard of before, and had, there-
fore, to be procured at whatever cost it might be. One
afternoon (I have never forgotten the scene) this
prophetess, appalling and unwieldy in size, arrived.
Her unborn child was said to be omniscient — it could
tell what things were on the highest mountain tops as
well as in the nethermost depths of the sea. Now it
was to tell us how our father was, and why his return
was so much delayed. In quite an audible, squeaking
voice the monster reported its observations, while the
company stood around spellbound. It pretended to
see several three-mast vessels far away on the high
seas steering for Zanzibar ; then it proposed getting
on one of the mast-tops of my father's ship to see
what was going on on board. After a while it re-
ported with. full details what every one there was
doing. Finally it ordered sacrifices to be brought to

102 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

the spirits of the sea to secure their future favour
with which to shield the travellers from possible evil.
As a matter of course the commands of this mysterious
voice were obeyed to the letter, and the legion of pro-
fessional beggars with which our beautiful island is
infested could for several days indulge to their hearts'
content in plenteousness of meat, fowls, and rice, which
were distributed amongst them, together with clothing
and money, as acts of propitiation.

I was not a little ashamed at a later time to per-
ceive that we had simply been duped by a ventrilo-
quist. At that time, however, we all firmly believed
in the wonderful child that could reveal the invisible
and read the secrets of the future as from a book.
Even now it is not quite clear to me whether the
woman was really a conscious imposter or a dupe
herself. No one had ever heard of a ventriloquist in
our country, so that, as no denunciation was forth-
coming in the shape of a satisfactory explanation, we
went on implicitly believing.

In our parts people are fond of everything super-
natural ; the more mysterious and incomprehensible
it appears the more faith it receives. Everybody
believes in spirits, good and evil. At the decease of
any one the chamber of death is for days fumigated
with incense, and as it is a general belief that the
soul of the departed has a longing to return to and
especially prefers to stay in its former abode, no
person cares to enter the same in the daytime, and
flies from it at night.

Superstition rules supreme. In cases of sickness,
of betrothal, of pregnancy, on all possible occasions,

my patheb's voyage. 103

the help of female prophets is called in — they are
required to know and to tell if the disease can be
cured, and how long it is to last, if the betrothal may
be considered a happy one, whether the expected
child will be a boy or a girl, and so on. If, as on
frequent occasions, the very contrary happens, the
prophetess screens herself behind numerous subter-
fuges and excuses. She declares herself to have been
under the effects of an evil star that day, and trusts
to be more successful next time ; and this explanation
is made to do— and does do. Certain it is they prosper
and grow very rich.

CHAPTER XIIL

DEATH-NEWS.

Day after day and week after week passed away with-
out my father's return ; the only pastime we had was
to listen to prophecies of the kind I have just de-
scribed, and which, if they did no other good, at least
shortened our suspense. One afternoon at last, while
most of us were engaged at prayers, the gladdening
news spread that a fisherman had seen several ships
bearing our flag on the high sea, but that he had not
dared to approach them on account of the stormy
weather. That could be no one but our father !
All hurried away to dress in their best, which had
been kept in readiness for weeks. We always expressed
our pleasure at the return of a dear relation from a
voyage or from a victorious campaign in this way,
while we showed our regret at parting by putting
on our plainest and most simple garments.

While the fisherman was still repeating over and
over again that he had reported the truth, a mounted
courier had been despatched to our high step-mother
at Bet il Mtoni to inform her of the news. Cattle
were slaughtered, the cooks had plenty of work in the
kitchen, and the rooms were freshly perfumed. By

DEATH-NEWS. 105

the fisherman's report the vessels might be expected
to arrive within two to three hours.

Madjid and his retinue hastened to join his father
on board. They started in two cutters, battling
against a heavy sea, which threatened to swamp them
every moment. They hoped to be back again by
seven o'clock in the evening with our father ; but man
proposes and God disposes.

Time went on. Seven o'clock had long since gone
by and the vessels were not yet in sight. The whole
town was in a fever of excitement — we in the house
were of course the most restless of all. Many of us
had forebodings of coming evil; still, we never dreamt
of what we were to hear so soon. It was feared that
Madjid and his companions had perished in the raging
storm, and that my father's arrival had been retarded
by witnessing this terrible accident. By degrees the
belief gained ground that all the ships, both large and
small ones, had foundered in the hurricane. Con-
jectures upon conjectures were made, and nobody,
not even the smallest children, cared to go to bed,
until the absent ones had arrived safe.

News suddenly spread, which at first no one would
credit. The whole palace was said to be surrounded,
and to be strongly guarded, by several hundred
soldiers. We rushed to the windows in hopes to get
at the truth of this report. The night was pitch
dark, and we could distinguish nothing but the gleam-
ing matches of the soldiers, a sight which did not
help to pacify us ; moreover, it was said that the
soldiers allowed no one to pass in or out of our doors.

What had occurred ? why were we locked in ? of
8

106 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

course everybody wanted to know. Who, it was
asked, had ordered such a measure ? As far as we
knew, Madjid had not returned; his house was like-
wise surrounded by the same gloomy, silent guard
watqhing ours, and we could discern his people
anxiously running about the house with lights.

We were the worse off, as all the eunuchs and male
slaves slept out of the house, so there were but
women and children left. A few of the stoutest
hearted gained the front hall of the ground floor,
separated only by a door from the large guard-room
on the other side of the portal, where they could
easily speak to the soldiers through the hall windows.
They, however, sternly refused all information, in
obedience to their orders ; and at last, when the
slaves, one and all, lifted up their voices in wailing
and lamentation, the soldiers threatened to fire on
them.

The whole place was in a dreadful state of confu-
sion ; some women cried and abused the invisible evil
power that kept us locked up, the most devout ones
said their prayers, and the children shrieked and
screamed on all sides and could not be pacified. Any
one suddenly dropped in on this wild scene might
easily have taken it for a lunatic asylum.

Morning dawned at last, and still we had not learned
why we were kept prisoners and where Madjid could
be. In spite, however, of the general excitement and
anxiety, everybody grew orderly at the time fixed for
morning prayer. But who can fancy our horror
when, after prayers, we observed our fleet at anchor,
and mourning flags flying in the breeze ! How can I

DEATH-NEWS. 107

describe our grief when the gates were opened early
in the morning and our brothers entered the house
without our father !

Then only did we realize that the black flags were
flying for him, and that we and the whole country
had sustained an irreparable loss. Our dear father
was no more ! On the passage from Oman to Zanzi-
bar, surrounded only by a few of his children and
followers, he had been called away by the Lord, whom
he had faithfully and humbly served all his life. The
wound in his leg, from which he had so long suffered,
had put an end to his existence.

He had not only been the most loving and devoted
head of his own family, but also a most conscientious
king, and a true father to his people. The general
mourning on his death proved how sincerely he had .
been loved by all. Black flags hung from every
house, and even the smallest hut fastened up a piece
of black stuff.

We soon learned from Bargasch, who had been on
the same ship, and who had been present at our
father's death, all particulars of his illness and of his
end. To him we were indebted that the dear remains
had not been sunk into the sea, as is ordained by the
Mahometan law. It was at his urgent request they
were placed in a coffin and brought on to Zanzibar.
His great love and respect for our dear father had
prompted him to take this course, though he thereby
seriously trespassed against our customs and our
religion. Our law does not permit the use of a coffin
either to prince or to beggar — the body is to be placed
into the earth, and so return to it once more.

108 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

We were also informed now of the reason why
we had been so strongly guarded the night before.
Madjid and his companions had suffered severely
from the storm, and had given themselves up as lost.
Their small boats were only built for coasting service,
so they stood in great peril of their lives before they
reached the ships they were in search for. When
they did at last board their father's vessel they found
Bargasch gone. As eldest son he had taken the
command of the fleet, and when in sight of the land
had quietly gone on shore with the body, to have it
interred secretly and unobserved in our burial-place.

There is an old tradition that, disputes on the
succession to the throne must be settled in presence
of the body of the deceased ruler, under the suppo-
sition that the veneration paid to the deceased will
always assist the legitimate successor. Bargasch
wanted to be ruler, but knowing that his elder
brother's claims were better supported, ho resolved
to act before he could be met with opposition. He
relied upon carrying out his plan by the force of
arms, and above all by the suddenness of his opera-
tions.

He had, therefore, on landing, ordered the troops
to surround our house and Madjid's. But his plan
miscarried, principally because he failed in taking
Madjid prisoner. Bargasch afterwards tried to plead
in excuse of his conduct that he had been desirous to
avoid a revolution.

Madjid, who had carried on the government of
Zanzibar since Chalid's death, maintained it now,
and proclaimed himself sovereign on the following

DEATH-NEWS. 109

morning. But doubts still prevailed whether Jie really
were our legitimate chief, or whether our eldest
brother, who always resided in Oman, would not
endeavour forcibly to obtain the power to which he
was entitled by birth.

CHAPTER XIV,

OUR MOURNING.

Many formalities had to be observed during our time
of mourning. In the first place, old and young people
had to put aside their costly garments, to replace
them by coarse black cotton dresses, and plain black
Btuff instead of the richly-embroidered veils. Oint-
ments and all kinds of perfumery were strictly
avoided, and the woman who tried to remove the
smell arising from the dye of her black dress by
sprinkling over it some drops of rosewater or ottar
of roses was called heartless, or at least frivolous.
During the first few days none of the grown-up
people slept in their beds, in proof of their love for
our departed father, whose body was lying wrapped
in the cold ground.

For more than a fortnight our house resembled a
large hotel. All persons, prince as well as beggar,
were at liberty to enter and eat. It is an old custom
to have the favourite dish of the deceased prepared
on such occasions for distribution amongst the poor.

The wives of the departed, the legitimate and
those purchased as slaves, submit to a special re-
ligious mourning for a period of four months. These
unfortunate widows have to mourn their husband and

OUR MOURNING. Ill

master in a dark room all the time, nor are they
allowed to step out into the light of day, much less
into sunlight. A Terike (widow), who is compelled
to leave her darkened apartment and to pass the
gallery, throws a thick black cloak over her veil, and
covers herself up in such a manner that she can just
see her way. In consequence the eyes get quite
unused to the light, and it requires always great
caution to re-accustom them gradually to daylight
after the expiration of the term of mourning.

The widows are formally bound over to their state
of widowhood by the Kadi, before whom they appear
deeply veiled, and are released again by the same
person under like formalities after the lapse of four
months. On the day on which the widows receive
back their liberty they pass through a great many
ceremonies founded on dark superstition. Firstly,
they wash themselves all at the same time from head
to foot, while the women slaves stand behind their
mistresses beating together two sword blades over
their heads (poor people use nails as a rattle, for it
must be an iron substance). The number of my
father's widows beiug too large to enable the per-
formance of this ceremony within the baths, it had
to be done on the beach, and a very curious spectacle
it was.

The widow now puts on other clothing, and not till
then is she free to marry again. All the male mem-
bers of our family and our slaves had had free access
to the house up till then, but after the lapse of these
four months our mothers were only visible to our
brothers alone.

112 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

During the first year of our mourning some of us
regularly visited our father's tomb every Thursday,
on the eve of the Mahometan Sunday. The tomb
was a square building supported by a cupola, in
which several of our brothers and sisters had been
buried before. After saying the first Sura of the
Kuran (the Mahometan Lord's Prayer) and other
prayers, and after calling upon the Almighty to have
mercy upon the departed, and to forgive their sins,
ottar of roses and other essences are sprinkled over
the graves, which are also fumigated with amber and
musk amidst loud lamentations.

The Mahometan has an implicit faith in immor-
tality, and believes that the soul of the dead is
allowed, unobserved of course, occasionally to revisit
its former abode. For this reason people like to visit
the graves of their dead, to keep up intercourse with
their immortal souls by imparting to them all their
own joys and griefs. Their memory is honoured in
every way; and a Mahometan who swears by the
head or by the name of his dead, would sooner perish
than turn false to his oath.

During the mourning of our mothers, everything in
our house remained unchanged, and no business was
allowed to be transacted. Moreover, everything had
first to be settled with our relations in Oman, to
whom a vessel had been despatched with the news of
our loss. Of course we discussed the question every
day how Tueni would act, who, as the eldest son, was
the legitimate successor to the government : whether
he would come to some amicable arrangement with
Madjid, or involve us in a family feud.

OUR MOURNING. HB

Some months later our brother Mhammed arrived
as the representative of all our brothers and sisters
in Oman, to arrange about the division of the in-
heritance. He returned to Mesket immediately after
having settled this matter. Mhammed was considered
the most pious of our whole family, who from his
early youth had never cared for worldly things.
Averse to all show and splendour, and perfectly in-
different to worldly goods, he had never been happy
in his station as prince. Disdainful of wealth, he had
always dressed very plainly, and nothing vexed him
more than the luxury and extravagance he met with
at Zanzibar, to which he was quite unaccustomed in
Oman ; he never got over it all the time he was with
us — indeed, his aversion to his surroundings made
him hasten his departure to the utmost. In that
primitive home of ours at Oman he could once more
resume the life that was suited to his tastes and
habits.

The question of the succession was still pending.
Madjid, who had the power in his hands in Zanzibar,
did not seem to trouble himself as to what Tueni,
who had succeeded in the government of Oman, might
have to say about his usurped rights ; but certainly
Tueni never acknowledged him as Sultan of Zanzibar.
An agreement was afterwards entered into between
them through the mediation of the English, in which
the payment of an annual sum by Madjid to his
elder brother was stipulated. The former, however,
did not keep to the terms of the treaty, for he dis-
continued the payment, which he was afraid might
be regarded as a tribute, and himself as a vassa

114 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

of Oman. Tueni had no means of defending his
rights. He had more fighting than enough in the one
territory of Oman, without engaging in a war with
his wealthy brother, which must have resulted in the
utter ruin of his country's resources. Thus, in the
absence of a satisfactory compact between the two
powers, Oman and Zanzibar have since remained two
distinct and independent sovereignties.

No difficulty had arisen, on the other hand, in the
division of our late father's private property between
Mhammed and ourselves. Unlike European nations,
we do not keep up a State with public funds, or with
an inland revenue. Neither is there a public ex-
chequer. All the proceeds arising from customs
duties are paid into the sovereign's treasury, as also
those accruing from his plantations, he being the
largest landowner in the island. From this source
alone all public expenses are paid.

In my time there were no income or other taxes,
nor ground rents, of which there is such a plentiful
crop in Europe.

The whole of this private property was divided
between the brothers and sisters ; even the men-of-
war were included and accounted for in Madjid's and
Tucni's shares, who took them over at a certain
valuation. The Mahometan law of inheritance
favours sons much more than daughters, for the
reason that a man has to maintain a family, which a
woman has not. Each of the sisters received in
consequence only half of what fell to the share of our
brothers.

My brother Ealub, my old playmate at Bet il Mtoni,

OUR MOURNING. 115

and myself were declared of age at the same time,
though we were neither quite .twelve years old.
This was rather early, even with our customs, but the
times were exceptional ones, and many unlooked-for
changes took place in our family. Both of us re-
ceived our share of the inheritance, and we had now
to manage for ourselves, young as we still were.
Madjid acted as guardian to our younger brothers
and sisters, whose property he undertook to manage.

In his last will my father had directed that those
of his widows who had no children should receive
an annuity for life, while those who had children
were to have a capital paid down, which, how-
ever, was comparatively small. It was no doubt
his intention that the children should make a
home for their mothers, whose limited incomes
made this dependence absolutely necessary. But
our father had judged us correctly. I am happy to
state, to the honour of all (there were thirty-six. of
us alive at the time of his death), that none failed
in their trust. Our mothers were loved and honoured
as before, and not one of us ever took undue advantage
of the favoured position in which we found ourselves.
Indeed, such an act would have justly deserved con-
demnation — for may she have been a born princess
or a purchased slave, no one can replace our mother ;
she needs neither rank nor wealth with her child;
with love and respect alone can we in a measure
repay the sacred debt we owe her.

Shortly after the division of the inheritance our
house, so crowded up to this time, became rather
lonely and empty. A number of my brothers and

116 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

sisters, with their mothers and their personal slaves,
removed from Bet il Sahel to set up house for them-
selves. As my sisters Chole, Schewane, and Asche
were still staying on, I continued to live with my
mother at Bet il Tani for some time more.

There were also many changes at Bet il Mtoni.
Zemzem removed to her estate until she married,
and Metle went to hers. It was indeed high time
that those of us who were now independent left the
large houses to make room for our younger brothers
and sisters.

During our father's lifetime we had all, figuratively
speaking, helped ourselves out of one dish, but things
were now completely changed. Those who had re-
ceived their share of the inheritance were supposed
to manage for themselves henceforth ; the old aspect
remained the same only for the little ones, their
mothers and slaves, and for the widows without
children. It was Madjid's business to look after
these now, for which purpose their allowances were
given into his keeping.

CHAPTER XV.

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS.

In the course of my narrative I have already spoken
of several of my brothers and sisters. I do not know
how many I had in all, as a great number died before
my father, but I have reason to think that their total
was about one hundred. Thirty-six of them were
alive when my father died, eighteen sons and eighteen
daughters. It would hardly be interesting to the
reader to be told the history of each one. But I
cannot refrain from describing some of them, feeling
convinced that I shall thereby be able to invest the
picture of my old home with some life and colouring.

1. Scharife.

My father, who was the head of and personally
conducted all the affairs of government, found little
leisure to occupy himself with his younger children,
but to the grown-up ones he was all the more lovable.
It made the little ones very jealous to have to remain
standing before him like little waxworks while the
elder sisters were allowed to sit on the sofa by his
side. The object of my bitterest envy was my sister
Scharife, and the thorn in my brother's side was
Hilal.

118 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Scharife, the daughter of a Circassian, was of
dazzling beauty, with a complexion fair as a
European's. She was very clever besides, and a
much trusted adviser of my father's, who consulted
her on every important matter, and, as I was told
afterwards, he never once regretted having followed
her advice. This surely proves that woman in the
East is not quite a cipher.

For a short period only they had a slight disagree-
ment. Following her own inclination, Scharife had
married a cousin of ours who did not appear to my
father to possess those qualities of character which
he desired in the husband of his darling daughter.
At first she kept aloof from her paternal home until
my father's displeasure had subsided. She had,
however, made a happy choice, and remained the
only wife of her husband; her one child, Schaun,
a very beautiful boy, whom she passionately loved,
but brought up very strictly, was my playmate.
Every Friday he came to us with his mother, always
bringing me some trifling gift, in particular when the
ships came from Mesket with the Monsoon (Arab,
Mossem). Scharife had many relations there, and
was very fond of Mesket, where she died, having
accompanied our father on his last trip to that place.

2. Chole.

When I went to Bet il Sahel first, Chole became my
favourite in place of Scharife. She was also a special
pet of my father's, whom she had won by her charm-
ing manners, her grace and bright spirits. I have
never met with a more perfectly moulded figure.

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 119

She dressed with great taste, and everything seemed
to suit her. In plain cotton dresses she eclipsed
all others wearing the most costly garments. Her
opinion on all matters of fashion was considered as in-
fallible as that of the Empress Eugenie in her time.

Her mother, who was from Mesopotamia, was so
clever and circumspect, that my father appointed her
superintendent of the household at Bet il Sahel.
Chole had much to suffer from her sister Asche, who
was considerably older, but she bore all with meek
patience. She always turned a deaf ear on those
people who wanted to slander Asche in her presence.
It was only I who knew how deeply pained she was
by her sister's conduct, for in spite of my youth she
confided all her sorrows to me, and I knew all her
secrets. She often said to me with tears : " 0, Salme,
what have I done, and how can I help it that my
father is pleased to favour me ? Do I not share with
her all the presents he gives me ? And am I to
blame that he always requires my services ? "

I am sorry to say there were many in the house
who regarded her with the same envious feeling.
Sweet words were not wanting to court her interces-
sion with my father, but as soon as the desired end
was attained her ungrateful suppliants again resumed
their unloving attitude. She assisted her mother in
superintending the household, and later on was her-
self called to fill this office, and, as it was impossible
to please and satisfy everybody in such an overcrowded
palace, there were opportunities enough for complaints. '
If among our huge supplies of provisions there should
be found a flaw in either fish, flesh, fowl, or fruit, it

120 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

was Gbole's fault ; if some of the purchases made for
the house and distributed failed to give unequivocal
satisfaction, the fault was laid at Chole's door; or
even if the crop of roses in Turkey had failed, causing
a short supply of rose-water and of ottar of roses,
Chole was blamed and held responsible for it.

But the greatest soreness of all was caused by my
father taking her with him into the treasure- chamber,
or by sending her there by herself. So spiteful were
her enemies that I verily believe they would have
liked to have her searched on leaving it, as they do
the pearl fishers in the Persian Gulf. Her numerous
antagonists were very much startled one day by the
news that my father had made her a present of a
splendid and very precious crown, which he had ex-
pressly ordered from Persia for her. This magnificent
diadem was made of golden palm leaves, richly set
with diamonds, decreasing in size from the large
centre stone. It was of a shape that could not be
worn with our head-dress, and it was intended more
as a valuable investment in case of need. It may be
conceived that the possession of so splendid an orna-
ment only increased the number of her adversaries.
My father's marked preference was greatly censured
and resented; and yet not even his great loving
heart could have distributed such love among all his
children in equal shares.

All this bitter feeling it would seem only brought
out the goodness and sweetness of Chole's disposition
— the most cruel shafts she turned off with a gentle,
forgiving hand. As for revenge or retaliation, they
never entered her head. She used merely to say:

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 121

" Well, I shall be content if only my father approves
of my doings."

Chole took care of me faithfully, as long as I was
a child, and afterwards she was my dearest friend.
Our friendship became closer still when she removed
to Bet il Tani after my father's death. We lived and
dined together, talked .till late at night, and then
retired to rest by each other's side. It will be shown
further on how great an influence she had gained over
me. After my reconciliation with Madjid our intimacy
was troubled for a short time only, but after that she
loved me all her life. After my husband's death in
1871, she had a letter written to me (she could not
write herself), in which she asked me to send her one
of my children for adoption, to which I could not
accede, as the child would have had to become a
Mahometan.

Her liberality and kindness had grown quite pro-
verbial. She treated her servants very well, pardoned
all their faults, and always interceded for other
people's slaves. I had a Nubian slave from Mesket,
who was a splendid cook, and who gave me great
satisfaction in that respect ; but I soon found it
impossible to keep her, as every article she could lay
hands upon vanished. No admonitions or even con-
victions of her guilt could alter her propensities, so
that at last I decided to sell the thief. No sooner had
Zafrane, as she was called, heard this, than she
escaped one night to Ghole's estate, to beg and pray
her to intercede. Indeed, she managed so well to
touch my sister's heart, that I had to keep the dan-
gerous person out of regard for Chole.

122 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PMNCEBS.

Chole, who had not inherited more than any of us,
bought with her share one of our finest plantations,
which my father had been in the habit of visiting
most. There was a beautiful palace, splendidly
furnished, on the estate, which, however, was not a
valuable property, though she had to pay a high price
for it. But in memory of the great love our father
had always shown to her she was willing to make any
sacrifice in order to possess herself of his favourite
resort. She went every year to her plantation, called
Sebe, for the clove harvest. I look back with great
delight on those days, when we used to walk about
the fragrant gardens hand in hand, talking to the
numerous children of the slaves, or looking out from
the windows to watch the people at work.

My father's richly-furnished room was never occu-
pied, and was only opened and shown to distinguished
visitors at their special request.

Chole was very hospitable to the many people who
were attracted by the beautiful situation of Sebe.
She had some of the rarest exotic plants in her
gardens, which were kept by her faithful overseer in
the same state as in my father's time.

A very pretty stone building had been put up just
outside the high garden-wall, overshadowed by a
magnificent tree, higher than the tallest oak-trees in
Europe. This building contained one saloon only,
paved with marble, mirrors covering the walls up to
the ceiling ; and it was furnished with bamboo chairs
and numerous coloured lamps. When at Sebe, my
father used to receive his visitors and take coffee in
this place. We could now quietly visit this beautiful

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 123

shady spot, enjoy ourselves like children, and talk of
our dear departed parent.

My dearly beloved Chole, she, the object of such
great love and such bitter hate, is of this world no
more ; I lost her in the year 1875. It is said that
she fell a victim to a dastardly act of poisoning, but
that belief is too much shrouded in mystery to give
it foundation. She will always be with me in spirit.

3. Asche.

It rarely happens that two real sisters are more
whimsically endowed by nature, than were Chole and
Asche. The latter was small and dark, Chole tall
and fair ; Asche was pockmarked, while her sister
possessed a countenance of perfect Oriental beauty.
Asche was reserved and even cold in manner, Chole
a radiant sunbeam, though perhaps she was not so
clever as her sister. A greater contrast could not
well be conceived, and it was difficult sometimes to
convince our Asiatic relations that they were really
sisters.

Poor Asche was very well aware of her plainness,
and the marred expression of her features ; and for this
reason she never appeared unveiled, even to her
relations and servants. For the same reason she did
not pay much attention to her outward appearance,
and, for her station, she dressed very plainly and
even meanly. One Abyssinian female slave, very
clever as a hairdresser, attended her in this capacity,
also as milliner and lady's-maid all in one.

She was, however, reputed far and wide as a person
of refined culinary taste, and she kept, indeed, the

124 MBMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

best table for miles round. Young people were
frequently sent to learn the secrets of cookery from
her cooks, and my brother Madjid partly boarded with
her, getting five or six dishes daily from her place,
for which he paid a fixed sum monthly.

On account of her good common-sense she was often
chosen to settle disputes, and very clear her judgment
was, too. She was a capital manager, and kept her
financial affairs in exemplary order, for which few of
us deserved praise. Her exchequer was never at an
ebb, not even before harvest-time, which we always
looked forward to as the tide in our purses. It is
true that persons of extravagant habits put a very
uncharitable construction on her possessions: they
said she was miserly and selfish.

Poor Hilal was her favourite brother. She was
devotedly attached to him and took a motherly care
of his eldest son, Sund, after his death.

4. Chadudj.

Chadudj, Madjid's sister, is already known to the
reader. She was much better liked than Asche, but
she did not often come to see us, as she lived with her
brother, whom she very fondly loved.

In later years she took the mother's place with our
youngest brother Nasor. With him she went to
Mecca, weary of life, after Madjid's death, as the last
refuge of the Mahometan, and both died there within
a short time after their arrival.

5. Schewdne.

When I went to Bet il Saliel, Schewane, though

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND BISTERS. 125

older than myself, became my playmate. She was
very sensible, and possessed a power of expression in
her eyes that might have subdued a lion; these
qualities combined made her play an important part
in our house. She installed me at once as her
errand-boy, thrashed, me every day, and under for-
tunate circumstances requited my services with the
doubtful compliment : "You white ape ! " For she was
the daughter of an Abyssinian, a race well known
with us for rudeness and violence as well as for cun-
ning. I had a " white " mother, and this fact exposed
me to a good many attacks from my dark-complexioned
relations. My brother Djemschid had still more to
suffer from them, for he had not only his mother's
fair hair, but also her blue eyes.

In early youth she had lost her only brother Ali>
who was much more good-natured and more generally
liked in consequence; her father and mother died
within a short time of each other ; and thus, still quite
young, she found herself alone in a world totally
different from what she wished it to be. Madjid was
the only one of her numerous brothers whom she cared
for a little out of regard for Ali, who had been his
intimate friend.

Her majestic figure and the almost classic beauty
of her features made her a very dignified and even
imposing personage. She possessed a strong spirit
of self-reliance, and would never take advice from
any one, or betray by word or look what she intended
to do. Thus she fell into the hands of a crafty negro
slave, who took advantage of her inability to write,
and robbed her right and left. With all her rough

126 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

manners, however, she was very charitablo, and a
severe but just mistress to her servants.

She always tried to pick out and to own the
handsomest slaves, whom she loaded with the most
costly weapons and jewels. Everything about her
showed a fairy-like display of riches and splendour.

I was the only one of all her sisters who managed
to get on with her, notwithstanding the bad treat-
ment I had suffered at her hands in early years.
Once when I seized a favourable moment to represent
to her how much she was blamed for her extravagant
habits, and especially for keeping such a great num-
ber of slaves, she quietly replied, that she was sure
she would not live long, and that she intended partly
to spend her money on the poor, partly on herself, as
fast as she could, so as to leave us nothing. She ^as
very rich, having inherited a considerable fortune from
Ali, besides her own share, but she always continued
to live in our paternal home, regardless of the general
feeling of dislike entertained for her.

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 127

6. Mctle.

Like Schewane, Metle was tho daughter of an
Abyssinian ; but she had so fair a complexion that
nobody could have guessed her descent. She and
her brother Eaiub were my playmates during my
stay at Bet il Mtoni. Her mother was totally para-
lyzed, and could not devote herself much to the

128 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

rearing of her children ; nevertheless, they turned
out excellent and worthy persons.

The poor sufferer was obliged to live on the ground-
floor, which was intended only for store-rooms, and
naturally very damp and unsuitable for an invalid
like her.

Metle and Balub were a dear little couple; they
loved their mother fondly, and only thought of
pleasing her. Metle especially, my senior by some
years, was very sweet, and a most unselfish play-
mate.

ABOtTT BOMB OF MY BBOTHEBS AND SISTERS. 129

about or had on her knees when I came to see her.
She was the most unassuming and contented person
in the whole house, the very opposite to Schewane.
But even this did not please everybody — her tastes,
they said, were far too simple for a princess; to
which she replied that nothing would change her,
nor did she consider it at all derogative to her dignity
or to her station, to treat prince and beggar with the
same kindness. " What matters it/' she said, " if I do
not choose to be always dressed in silks and velvets —
am I worth less on that account than my brothers or
sisters ? Do I not remain my father's daughter at
all times ? " I must own to my shame that I had not
sufficient good sense then to understand this kind of
philosophy, which I only learned to appreciate pro-
perly afterwards.

7. Zejane*

Zejane and Zemzem are sisters by an Abyssinian
mother. I have already mentioned, that during our
stay at Bet il Mtoni an intimate friendship existed
between my mother and Zejane, who had a great
weakness for me, and spoiled me more than my
mother approved of. Our apartments were far apart,
and as it took me a long time to get to their rooms,
I often stayed there all day, to my mother's annoy-
ance, who vainly sent messenger after messenger to
bring me back, until she came herself, and in her turn
stayed all the evening with my sisters.

Zejane was the first to teach me pillow-lace making,
$t which she was very clever. Alone, or with my
mother, she invented the prettiest designs, which no

130 MEMOIRS 07 AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. #

one was permitted to see until they had been success-
fully completed. She made many friends by her
kindness, and was never tired nursing the sick and
helpless.

The days that my father did not spend at Bet il
Mtoni, the -women had permission to go out ; and on
these occasions Zejane could always be seen in com-
pany with some slaves, loaded with many presents,
which she distributed amongst the families of officials.

It was a very sad parting when we removed from
Bet il Mtoni, for both Zejane and my mother knew
well that they would now see but little of each other,
for Zejane rarely went into the town, which she dis-
liked. Before we left, I was much with her, and she
gave me many keepsakes, at the same time exhorting
me to be always good to my mother.

I was the more strongly impressed with our sad
leave-taking, as we had to go immediately afterwards
to our overbearing stepmother, Azze bint Sef, to bid
her a cool good-bye.

8. Zemzem.

Much prettier than Zejane, Zemzem possessed all
the good and noble qualities of her sister, who was
taken away from us much too soon. I only knew her
more intimately at a later date, when we had become
neighbours on our estates. She was very practical,
not given to extravagance, and fond of simplicity and
solidity — and things prospered more under her man-
agement than in any other Arab household. I may
say that, taken on the whole, she came nearest to the
ideal of a good European housewife.

ABOUT ?OME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 131

She was very motherly to me, as I had been her
dear sister's favourite. "When I did wrong, she looked
at me with her large, expressive eyes, and said :
"What a pity that your mother had to leave you
behind so young in this wretched world! Zejane
would have been a second mother to you, if she were
alive, and you would have remained a child much
longer. For after all you are a child yet, with very
little common sense." And to appease me, she added:
" Don't be angry with me for speaking to you thus,
if I do it is only for love of Zejane, to whom you
were so dear. Others, you see, commit the same
follies, but I never take the trouble to reprove them!"

She was of great assistance to me in my farming —
she rode with me over the plantations for hours,
and pointed out any improvements she considered
necessary. Once she turned to my " Nakora," or
overseer, and said : " Your mistress is a mere child
still (in Suahely, mho to) and does not understand
these matters; you must therefore look after her
interests, and my Nakora will always be ready to
advise you." This was not very flattering to my
self-esteem, but as she meant well I could not be
angry with her.

Zemzem married rather late in life our distant
cousin Humud. (It is the custom with us to marry
as much as possible in the family, so as not to be
linked with people of lower rank.) Humud was the
same who had once dared to ask Chalid in the mosque
for another sister of ours, and had been so harshly
repulsed on that occasion. After Chalid's death he
made personal advances to the lady, but with no

182 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PBINCES8.

better success — and when he had recovered from
his great disappointment, he proposed to Zemzem
and was accepted. They were married immediately
after, but very quietly, for Humud was exceedingly
stingy, and not even hospitable, as all Arabs tradi-
tionally are, though he was one of the richest men in
Zanzibar. He was fanatically orthodox, and made a
great display of rigorous devoutness ; but this mantle
of hypocrisy was seen through by most people, since
he did not hesitate to commit the greatest cruelties
on the slightest provocation. For this reason he was
_ ' almost universally despised — and yet no one ventured
to show open hostility to so rich and influential a
person.

After her marriage I saw but little of Zemzem.
She seemed to live happily with her unpopular husband
— in her practical way I suppose she managed to get
on even with him.

9. Nunu*

I will say a few words about a sister, treated badly
by nature, who deserved to be greatly pitied. Nunu
was the daughter of a Circassian, who received the
name of Tadj (crown) on account of her marvellous
beauty. She had been greatly distinguished by our
father, and became the object of much envy and
jealousy. When her child, as beautiful as herself, was
born blind, many looked upon it as a punishment to
the mother, who had been guilty of being my father's
favourite. This misfortune bitterly distressed her,
and only the firm belief that God had so willed it
made her bear it. Nor was she spared long to her

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND BISTERS. 183

blind child, for soon after she died of a kind of
dropsy.

Poor blind Nunu was now quite alone. But in her
case also the old saying proved true, "that God's
help is nighest in our extremity/' A trustworthy
Abyssinian slave had solemnly vowed to the dying
Tadj to look after Nunu and never to desert her as
long as she lived. She kept her promise in an ex-
emplary manner, and shielded her little mistress
from all mischances of life, though she had often
more than just cause to complain of her. She
took orders from no one but my father, who in his
love for the poor blind child took more care of her
than he had been able to do of his other children,
and this again gave rise to much envious talk.

Nunu was the wildest and most unruly child I have
ever seen, and the terror of all mothers with little
children. From the age of six until she was ten *
years old, she waylaid all her younger brothers and
sisters, on purpose — incredible as it may appear — to
scratch out their eyes ! When told of the birth of
one, her first question was whether it could see and
had sound eyes. After a time it was deemed advisable
not to tell her the truth, and it then pleased her much
to know that there were others also who would never
be able to see the sun or the moon. Her little soul
was filled with the most bitter envy. A very pretty
little brother of ours was greatly admired for his
beautiful long eyelashes. His mother having gone to
dinner one day, and the nurse having turned her
back for a moment, the child was heard to scream
fearfully; and upon their rushing back, they found

134 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

that Nunu had cut off the eyebrows and eyelashes of
the child with a pair of scissors !

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS- 135

10. Schembua and Farschu.

Schembua and Farschu were my brother Chalid's
only children, and from their earliest youth they had
been so fond of each other that they were almost -
inseparable. This brought them frequently into
conflict with their mothers, who were exceedingly
jealous of each other. Schembua, some years older
than her sister, was gentle and modest, just the
reverse of Farschu, and so sensible that she took
exciting almost a mother's care of her.

They were both very rich, having inherited the
whole of their father's lar£e fortune. la their love
for each other they resolved not to divide their
property, but to live together and share their pos-
sessions. But this arrangement greatly displeased
Farschu's mother, an Abyssinian, who wanted
her daughter to shake herself free. Farschu,
who was very determined, refused to accede to this

186 MEMOIRS OF AN AEABIAN PRINCESS.

demand, and declared she was firmly resolved not to
divide the fortune as long as she and her sister
remained unmarried. Her mother, deeply hurt by
this refusal, and finding that things in other respects,
too, were getting unbearable, left her home and her
child secretly one day, taking with her only a small
parcel and a very small sum of money. At first no
one knew where she had gone, and it was generally
believed she would return to her daughter after a
while. But it was soon discovered that she neither
intended returning to her child nor living by her
bounty — and would, therefore, gain her living by her
own work. I have previously alluded to the circum-
stance that at the death of her husband the widow is
made almost entirely dependent on her children, and
that in some cases, as for instance in this, the law
proves a disaster instead of a protection.

The place of the unhappy mother's concealment
remained perfectly unknown as long as her scanty
means lasted; and she only came to Bet il Mtoni,
after having spend her last " Pesa," to see my elder
sister Zuene, who had formerly been on very friendly
terms with Chalid. With her she continued to live
on condition that Zuene would never attempt to bring
her and her daughter together, unless the latter came
of her own accord to acknowledge her wrong. Farschu,
however, remained perfectly indifferent to this state
of affairs, nor did she take any steps to be reconciled
when her mother began to sicken. Neither entreaties
nor even the severest censure took the least effect on
her. Bepeatedly, but in vain, I tried to remind her of
a child's duty — she remained obdurate. It was almost

ABOUT BOMB OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 137

impossible to believe in so much unrelenting hard-
ness in so small and pretty a being; but from the
flash of her dark eyes one might have guessed how
inflexible was her resolution. Soon after my depar- N
ture from Zanzibar, Farschu died of consumption,
and I have never been able to learn whether she was
ever reconciled to her mother before her death.

The finest estate that belonged to my neices was
the grand and superb plantation " Marseilles ; "
Chalid's predilection for France and for everything
French had made him select this name. The walls
of all the rooms, except those set apart for prayers,
were covered with large mirrors, which had a wonder-
ful effect when lighted up. The floors were inlaid
with black and white marble slabs, producing a
pleasant freshness much appreciated in a southern
clime. A large collection — such as a clock of very
ingenious construction, from which dancing and
playing figures stepped out at the striking hours ;
glass globes reflecting the most grotesque distortions ;
large round quicksilver balls like those put up
sometimes in gardens, and a variety of other works
of art — gave the palace quite the look of a museum,
especially to all simple and uncivilized persons and
to our relations from Oman. Frequently I heard
expressions of wonder and surprise, such as " Truly,
the Christians are real devils ! " At " Marseilles, "
perhaps the best insight into the real ways of Eastern
life was to be gained.

I have spent many a happy day on this estate.

The house was always full of guests, and as my nieces

were rather emancipated and very tolerant in rejigious
10

138 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

matters there was no constraint put upon intercourse.
The cries of the runners and outriders : " Sumila !
sumila! " (make room), and the announcing of visitors
by slaves never ceased. All people here were gay and
merry, and seemed to know of no care. The amiable
hostesses often induced ladies to stay for more than a
fortnight who had only come for three days, much
to the displeasure of their respective fathers and
husbands.

Everybody could spend the day as he or she pleased
best, without being considered impolite, for it is only
true hospitality that grants full liberty to guests. In
the evening about sunset the whole company met to
stay till one or two o'clock in the splendidly lighted
saloons, or, on moonlight nights, in the park. When
there was no moon, piled up stacks of wood saturated
with palm oil were kept burning in various spots all
the time.

Unfortunately, this splendid and pleasant place
was soon after destroyed. My brothers Bargasch
and Abd il Aziz fortified themselves in the castle
during our rebellion against Madjid, and the closing
and decisive battle was fought here. The estate was
totally ruined in consequence, and my neices were
great losers thereby. But their great wealth made
them soon get over this loss, nor did they like to have
it much talked about, " as it was not worth while
losing a word about the matter ! "

11. Hildl.

I will speak of two of my brothers only in this
place, of Hilftl and of TuSni, both of them unhappy

ABOUT 80MB OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 189

men ; the one by his own faults, the other a victim
to his own son.

It is well that the Mahometan religion forbids the
use of all spirituous liquors, and our sect, which does
not 6ven sanction smoking, is in this respect much
more rigorous than the Turks or Persians. By degrees
a sad report began to gain credence that our brother
Hilal, (Newmoon), seduced by Christians and in par-
ticular by the then French consul, had taken to
drinking. He then had frequent attacks of giddiness*
the smell of wine was noticeable about him, and the un-
fortunate man had not the strength of mind to conquer
the evil spirit that possessed him. Hilal was the
favourite son of our father, to whom this caused a
bitter anguish. He tried to reform the seduced son
by having him at first confined to the house, but soon
found himself compelled to banish him altogether
from our family circle.

Our sister Chadudj suffered most of all, as she was
very fond of Hilal. He still visited her at our paternal
home after his banishment, but could only gain
admitance under the greatest difficulties and dangers,
and when he stayed over-night with her and some
others, who had remained faithful to him, the room
was kept dark so that his lights might not betray him.
No one ever found the heart to apprise our father of
these visits. He kept him very short to prevent him
from indulging his vice, but Chadudj assisted him
largely, though 'greatly to his own ruin.

Hilal sank deeper and deeper under his evil passion,
until he was scarcely ever sober, and he was soon
released from this misery by death. In spite of all

140 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. .

that had occurred, our father's grief for his favourite
son was unspeakable. He often locked himself up in
his chamber, and the traces of tears could be seen
afterwards in the place where he had knelt down to
pray. Something which had never happened before :
he gave vent to his grief even in words like these :
" How great is my despair and my grief for thee, oh,
Hilal ! "

Hilal left three sons, Suud, Fesal, and Mhammed.
The l&st and youngest was adopted by my stepmother
Azze bint Sef, who was childless. The boy completely
won her over, an attempt in which none of us had
ever succeeded. She had always been reported to be
mean and ungenerous, and nobody could believe their
eyes when Mhammed commenced living very extrava-
gantly, with her money of course. No one had ever
before dreamt of keeping dogs — he ordered a whole
pack of hounds from Europe, amongst them such
splendid beasts as had never been seen in our country.
His whole time was taken up with these dogs and
some really beautiful horses. He would not allow
his favourites to be fed on garbage, but had a separate
kitchen put up for them, where a variety of food was
prepared. The fattest fowls, the best joints of meat,
and the largest fish, were picked out for them. Eeport
even had it, that his dogs and horses got no water to
drink, but only champagne. I cannot say whether
this was true ; at all events people said a great many
bad things of Mhammed, that were probably not
entirely without foundation, for his was the refine-
ment of extravagance.

Suud had a great weakness for European habits and

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 141

style of life ; in his manners be resembled bis father
most.

The third of Hilal's sons was very different from his
brothers, feentle Fesal, who had not the luxurious
habits of Mhammed and Suud, was always so modestly
dressed that he might sooner have been taken for a
plain citizen than for a prince. He was of a philo-
sophical turn of mind, very averse to all material
pleasures, and always remained a puzzle to his
brothers. In after years he bought a small estate
near my own and often came to see me. He went
hardly ever to the town without bringing me back
some small present, if it was only a bundle of fire-
works, which I liked very much.

Misunderstood by his brothers, the poor fellow was
very unhappy ; he had a gentle and noble disposition,
which is thought much too lightly of in this world.
But by his gentle and amiable manners he won the
friendship of all who saw more of him. He had lost
his mother when very young and had hardly ever
known true love. " It pains me the more," he used
to say to me, who, though I was his aunt, was much
his junior, " that my brothers look on me as quite
superfluous, and care not one jot for me. I care not
whether I live or die, for no one will ever miss me."
My heart ached when I heard him talk so, for he
really deserved to be loved. How truly happy a
monastic life would have made this man, who felt a
stranger in his own land and an alien in the world !

No one regretted more than poor Fesal, when I
yielded to my brother Madjid's request to return to
the town. In the course of time he had become quite

142 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

accustomed to telling me of all his thoughts and
sorrows, as if I had really been a sensible aunt, and
not what I was, a wild and inexperienced girl,

12. Tueni.

Our eldest brother Taeni was born at Mesket, and
spent all his life in Oman. He never came to Zan-
zibar, and could not be shaken in his prejudice against
that birthplace of most of his brothers and sisters.
Since a Mahometan is not allowed to have his portrait
painted, a commandment which is strengthened, if
possible, by superstition, and as photographs were not
yet known with us at that time, Tueni always remained
a perfect stranger to those of us who had not been to
Meeket. We had only heard a good deal of his gentle
manners, of his courage, and-his bravery in war. - His
soldiers idolized him, and his presence alone inspired
them with confidence. Like our father, he was very
fond of warfare, and a more accomplished soldier than
any of my brothers. He had spent the best part of his
life in the camp, to the great sorrow of his legitimate
wife Ealie, our cousin, by whom he had several
children. During my father's residence in Zanzibar,
Tueni acted as his representative in Oman, but having
enough to do to look after the defence of the frontiers of
the empire, he left the real government in the hands of
our pious second brother Mhammed, who was possessed
of the same prejudice against Zanzibar. Tueni would
either fight about Bender Abbas with the Persians, or
resist the invasions of the wandering tribes of central
Arabia. These numerous tribes are very poor, and
most of them live only by pillage. An Arab of the

ABOUT SOME OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 148

desert seldom possesses more than a camel, some in-
dispensable arms (such as musket, sword, dagger,
lance, and shield), one or two iron cooking pots, a bag
of dates, and at best a milk-goat. The men, young
and old, carry their arms into battle, followed at some
distance by their wives and daughters on foot, and
met after the fight with cool water, milk, and viands.
Oman was invaded every year by larger or smaller
hordes, and the country was kept in a continual state
of activity by them. None but the most resolute and
energetic ruler could hold his own against their in-
cursions.

Such was the state of affairs at the time my father
died on his return to Zanzibar. Had his death taken
place at Mesket, Tueni might have been in a position
to possess himself of the government of Zanzibar,
instead of Madjid, our fourth brother, who, taking
advantage of favourable circumstances, caused him*
self to be proclaimed Sultan of Zanzibar. I have
already stated that Madjid agreed to pay an annual
sum to Tueni, but that he soon afterwards withdrew
from this engagement. His conduct was universally
condemned, the more so as Tueni' s position became
daily more difficult. The continued campaigns were
a heavy drain on the country's resources, and jjist at
the worst time the supplies from Zanzibar began to
fail. Money at last became so scarce that he saw
himself compelled to levy duties on various article^ of
merchandize. Luckily for Oman, public loans, which
have been the ruin of more than one Eastern State,
were then unthought of. But even these light taxes
raised a spirit of discontent, and the malcontents

144 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

unfortunately succeeded in gaining great influence
over Tueni's eldest son, Salum, who at last became
guilty of the heaviest crime man can commit.

One day when Tueni, after having been to an assem-
bly, had thrown himself, greatly fatigued, upon a couch,
to take a little rest, his son stepped up, and peremp-
torily demanded the suspension of all taxes and
duties, for which unjustifiable proceedings he was
naturally called to order. Whereupon this unnatural,
cowardly son drew a revolver, which he had kept
hidden until then, and shot down his father where he
lay!

But the misguided youth did not long enjoy the
fruits of his evil deed— a speedy retribution was in
store for him. He had hardly installed himself as
ruler of Oman, when his brother-in-law Azzan deter-
mined to depose him. He surprised Mesket one
night, and put the capital to massacre and pillage.
His action was much facilitated by the great exaspera- .
tion of the people against Salum, as no righteous
man would take up arms on behalf of a parricide.
The wild invaders met with little resistance — they
carried off all they could, and destroyed the rest.
Salum's palace in particular was sadly wrecked, and
he succeeded under great peril in escaping on board
one of his men-of-war, saving nothing but bare life.

His unfortunate mother and her other children just
managed to save themselves on board a ship, and she,
too, lost her all. A young Indian merchant, called
Abd il Bad (servant of the Lord), had the good fortune
to buy the greater part of her precious jewels for a
mere trifle from a Bedouin (it was said for about three

ABOUT BOMB OF MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS. 145

hundred dollars), and the honest fellow restored the
lost property to the unfortunate princess as a gift !

Azzan, the invader, was himself soon after turned
out by my third brother Turki, and he again suffered
the same fate at the hands of my younger brother, Abd
il Aziz (also servant of the Lord). The latter, Chole's
ward, was much distinguished by intelligence, courage,
and energy. At the age of twelve he had already
taken our side in the conspiracy and conflict with
Madjid, and he lived afterwards for a time in Beloo-
chistan, whence most of our soldiers used to be
drafted. He succeeded in the end to restore peace in
Oman for a short period, but was not able to maintain
himself in power for long. Turki returned, and
possessed himself anew of the government, where-
upon Abd il Aziz sought a refuge again in Beloochis-
tan, where he still lives.

Surely a sad page, these family feuds ! They can
only be understood by those who are personally ac-
quainted with the ambition of Eastern princes and
with the passionate dealings of Eastern people in
general. I, myself, was not to remain a stranger to
these, indeed among the first I was to be a sufferer
by them !

186 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

invited are not necessarily poor people, they are often
rich men of high rank, who, heing strangers in the
place, have no home of their own during this holy
season, and the true and hospitable Arab is only too
happy to supply this want. No one considers it
derogatory to be entertained by a man poorer than
himself, nor would he in that case think of offering to
pay for the hospitality received. Selfishness cannot
become a national sin where such principles prevail.
Happy those nations where charity is practised as a
sacred duty.

The Kumdan is in some respects like Christmas-
time. A great many presents are distributed on the
first day of the following month, Schewal, which is
one of the great feast days of the Mahometans. These
presents consist but rarely of ladies' fancy work ; in
general they are articles purchased ready made. The
best business is done by goldsmiths and jewellers —
nearly all of these are Hindoos and Banyans, and they
are without exception the most mendacious crew.
They are, however, very clever workmen, and have
succeeded in driving all the Arab goldsmiths out of
the field. They have plenty to do before the feast ;
they get more orders than they can execute, but under-
take them nevertheless. To insure our orders being
executed in time, we had to send a couple of armed
slaves to the workshop to watch our work being done,
and to prevent other orders being finished first.
These may seem rather strong measures, but we had
no choice else. One of my sisters first suggested thia
expedient.

The presents most preferred consisted of arms. To

woman's position in the east. 147

about which all sorts of stories may be told with im-
punity. A traveller making a few weeks' tour to
Constantinople, to Syria, Egypt, Tunis, or Morocco,
sets about at once to write a big book on the life and
the customs of the East. He has been able to judge
only quite superficially of these, and has seen ab-
solutely nothing of domestic life. He contents
himself with setting down the distorted stories and
second-hand accounts of the French or German
waiters at his hotel, or from sailors and donkey boys,
and considers these sources of information perfectly
reliable and trustworthy. But even from these there
is not much to learn, and accordingly he throws the
reins over the neck of his imagination, and gallops
away into fable-land. The only necessary merit of
his book, he thinks, is amusement and entertainment,
which are the sugar-plums between the pages, and
lure the reader on, and his production i& pronounced
" such a success ! "

My own experience, I admit, was somewhat similar
— for I myself judged things in Europe at first by
their outward appearance only. When I first met in
European society faces beaming all over with smiles,
I was, of course, led to believe that the condition of
husband and wife must be much better regulated, and
that connubial happiness was a thing much more fre-
quently met here than in the Mahometan East.
When, however, my children had outgrown the age
when a mother's continual presence is more desirable
than her absence, and I was able tp go more into
society, I soon perceived that I had completely mis-
judged men as well as the general state of affairs. I

148 MEMOIRS OF AN ABABIAK PRINCESS.

have watched many cases of what is called " wedded
life," in which the parties seemed to be chained
together expressly to make each other suffer ex-
cruciating torments. I have seen too many of such
unhappy cases to make me believe that Christian
wedlock stands on a higher level or renders people
much happier than the Mahometan. To my mind
married life, in the first instance, cannot be made more
or less happy by any particular religion, or by existing
views or habits alone; matrimonial happiness can
alone depend upon real congeniality and harmony
between husband and wife. Where these exist, happi-
ness and peace will always predominate, and from
them will spring in time that harmonious sympathy
which wedlock truly ought, and is intended to be.

Taught by this experience I will try not so much
to give my own opinion, but to define simply the
position of women — and of married women in par-
ticular — in the East. I admit that I know in-
timately only the state of affairs in Zanzibar,
and tolerably well that existing in Oman. But
it is just in Arabia, and with the Arab people,
that the true Mahometan spirit, upon which the
views of other Eastern nations are founded, has
maintained itself most pure, and for this reason my
description may claim to be applicable to the entire
Mahometan East, with the exception, of course, of
such cases of degeneracy which have arisen from, and
grown out of, a closer connection with the Christian
Occident.

- In the first instance, it is quite a fallacy to think
that woman in the East is placed socially on a lower

WOMAN'S POSITION IK THE EAST. 149

level than man. The legitimate wife — the purchased
Sarari are of course to be excepted — stands in all
respects on a par with her husband, and she always
retains her rank, and all rights and titles emanating
from it, to their full extent.

The mere circumstance of her retired way of life
makes the Arab woman appear more helpless and
possessing fewer rights. But this is a custom exist-
ing with all Mahometan (and also with many non-
Mahometan) nations in the East, and the higher the
rank the more rigorously it is observed. Only her
father, her sons, brothers, uncles and nephews, and
her slaves are allowed to see her. When she appears
before a stranger, or has to speak to him, the law
requires her to be shrouded and veiled ; part of the
face, the neck and chin, and, above all, the ankles,
must be completely covered. As long as she keeps to
this rule she may move about freely, and walk
abroad in open day. Poor people, who have but
few or no slaves at all, are obliged, on this account
alone, to go abroad more in the daylight, and con-
sequently enjoy more liberty. Ask a woman of this
class whether she does not mind exposing herself so
freely, and she will reply : " Such laws are only
made for the rich, and not for poor women ! " I must
say that ladies of higher rank often envy their poorer
sisters on account of their advantages, of which
especially the women in Oman avail themselves,
who, owing to the poverty of their country, are pre-
vented from keeping many slaves.

I have already stated that the lady of rank too
may walk abroad in the daytime. For instance, if

150 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

one of her near relations falls sick she may visit
the invalid veiled ; in the same way she may appear
before a judge to plead her cause in person, for
luckily we know nothing of lawyers. But custom
requires that this right be only put into force in most
urgent cases, and vanity has a good share in uphold-
ing it, as the veil disfigures women to a degree, and
makes them look like walking mummies.

I fully admit now that this swaddling in the East
is carried too far, though I cannot say that I find the
European customs any better. In my opinion the
want of dress in the ball costume of a fashionable
lady is carried much further still.

It is true that a single woman is an object deserving
pity. Shut out completely by precept and custom
from any intercourse with men, and without any pro-
tection, her position frequently becomes a painful
one. As she is not allowed to see or speak to her
own officials and managers, if these be Arabs, she is
often robbed by them ; and I am myself acquainted
with several ladies who only married to save them-
selves from being at the mercy of these frauds and
impostures. This proves that the seclusion of women
has its unmistakable drawbacks, and that this also is
carried too far. There is, on the other hand, a great
deal of sentimental pity wasted on the Eastern woman.
She is perfectly unaware that any constraint is put
upon her, and habit makes the greatest inconveniences
bearable after a time.

Pity is also lavished upon her because she has to
share her husband's love with one or many others.
By law the Moslem is permitted to have four legiti-

woman's position in the east. 151

mate wives at one time, and to marry a fifth if one of
the former dies or gets divorced from him. Sarari,
or concubines, he may buy as many as he pleases,
and can pay for. But I have never met with any
man who really had four wives at once. Of course a
poor man can only afford to have one ; the rich man
restricts himself to two at most, who live apart find
keep house separately.

In the East there are, of course, women too who
know how to take care of themselves ; who first take
the precaution to inquire whether the suitor to their
hand has a wife already, and who stipulate the clause
of a formal promise in the marriage-contract that he
will wed no other wife or purchase a Surie.

Practically, and in most cases, monogamy pre-
dominates. Whenever a man avails himself of the
full liberty granted to him by law, the relations be-
tween the different wives become rather uncomfort-
able. Kuffled tempers and envy soon turn into
raging jealousy with the hot-tempered southern
women. Apathy and indifference do not create
jealousy; this comes only when we have reason to
doubt our power over the object we love and want to
keep to ourselves alone. Do not these frequent out-
bursts of passion sufficiently prove the fact that
women in the East can love more deeply than her
cooler northern sister ?

By jealousy polygamy is turned into a source of great
vexation and torment — and that is well. Many a man
of sufficient wealth to facilitate this has a horror of
daily scenes, and therefore he prefers monogamy,
which acts as a further check to this bad custom. No

152 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

sensible man, and surely no woman, can excuse or
defend polygamy. Bui now comes another question.
How is it with Christians ? how about wedded life in
civilized Europe ? I will say nothing of the fact that
in a Christian state the Mormons, a sect who call
themselves Christians, are publicly and openly avowed
polygamists. Is wedlock always considered a sacred
nstitution in moral Europe ? Is it not bitter irony
and delusion to talk of only " one " wife ? The Chris-
tian may, of course, marry one woman only, and that
is the great superiority of Christianity ; the Christian
law requires the just and the good, the Mahometan
allows the evil ; but custom and practice mitigate to
a great extent in the East the evil consequences of the
law, while sin is rampant here in spite of it. I should
say the only difference in the position of a married
woman in the East and in Europe to be, that the
former knows the number as well as the characters of
her rivals, while the latter is kept in a state of con-
siderate ignorance about them.

Of course only a wealthy man can purchase Sarari.
Slaves by birth, they become free as soon as they
have children. It happens very rarely, and then
only in the case of very hard-hearted men, that
the Surie is resold by her master after the death of
her child, from necessity or because he is weary of
her. In case of the husband's death, his Sarari are
absolutely free and have no other master. And if
they are married again to a brother or to any relation
of the deceased, they become, as free women, the legi-
timate wives of such.

It is an absolute myth that the Arab husband treats

*'.

"WOMAN'S position in the east. 153

his wife with less regard than is the case here. This
is already provided for by religion, which, though
neglecting the wife in some points, recommends her,
like a helpless child, to the protection of the husband.
The believing and pious Mahometan has as much
humane feeling as any highly-civilized and moral
European ; he is perhaps even more strict and rigor-
ous to himself, believing in the ubiquity of the Lord,
who made the laws, and carrying the firm conviction
to the grave that his good acts and his bad will by
and by meet with just retribution.

Certainly there exists in Zanzibar as well as in this
country the uncomfortable character known as the
domestic tyrant. But I may state upon my conscience
that I . have heard here a good deal more of loving
husbands who sometimes think fit to establish their
argument by physical manipulation. Any decent Arab
would feel ashamed and dishonoured by such an action.
It is different with negroes, for I have frequently had
to separate couples fighting on my plantations and
make peace between them.

Neither is the wife obliged to submit unconditionally
and for ever to all the whims and humours of her
husband ; in such cases she always finds shelter with
her relations, or, if she stands alone, she has the right
to make a complaint to the Kadi in person. Frequently,
too, she has recourse to the law.

A lady, with whom I was very intimate, married at

the age of sixteen a cousin of hers, who was many

years her senior, but by no means worthy of her.

Continuing to lead his former gay life, he thought he

could treat her as he pleased ; but he was not a little
11

154 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS

surprised when he found one evening on his return
home a very strongly-termed letter instead of his wife.
I had always been accustomed to go to my friend's
estate without being first announced, as I knew that
her amiable husband was never at home, and preferred
the pleasures of the town to his wife's company. After
the above-mentioned occurrence, however, my friend
called upon me one day to tell me that I could no
longer visit her without being announced, as her
husband was again living with her on the estate.
Eemorseful and repenting, he had followed and im-
plored her pardon ; and having once learned what a
determined little wife he possessed, he took good care
to mend his ways. I could speak of many instances
of this kind.

When married people meet they kiss each other's
hands, and they take their meals in company with
their children. The wife performs all kinds of friendly
services for her husband. She fastens on his weapons
when he goes out, and takes them off again on his
return ; she refreshes him with cool drinks ; in fact,
shows him all those trifling acts of attention which
make life more pleasant and affectionate. But all
these services are voluntary, and by no means the
duties of bondage.

The household stands entirely under the control of
the wife, and there she is absolute mistress. She does
not receive a certain sum for house-keeping, as is
customary in Europe — she has full liberty to dispose
of her husband's funds. When the latter has two
wives living apart, his income is equally divided be-
tween them.

woman's position m the east. 15$

Of course much depends upon the individual dis-
position of husband and wife, how far the latter may
venture in using her authority. I had once invited a
large party to one of my plantations, but the
invitations had been issued too late to allow all the
ladies to order their riding donkeys in time, and I was
afraid, therefore, many of them would have to decline.
In this plight a young married lady, a friend of mine,
at once placed a large number of fine donkeys, fully
harnessed, at my disposal. Before accepting her
generous offer I wanted her to ask her husband's per-
mission first — upon which she very quietly replied
that she was not accustomed to let her husband
interfere in such trifles as these.

Another lady of my acquaintance in Zanzibar had
still greater control over the household and all the
property. She managed quite by herself all her
husband's large estates and his town-houses. The
latter was not even aware of the extent of his income,
nor did he consider it derogatory to his dignity to ask
her for money whenever he wanted any ; he knew
well enough that he could not do better than leave the
entire management of his affairs to his prudent and
sensible wife.

The education of the children is left entirely to the
mother, whether she be legitimate wife or purchased
slave, and it constitutes her chief happiness. Some
fashionable mothers in Europe shift this duty on to
the nurse, and by and by on the governess, and
are quite satisfied with looking up their children
or receiving their visits, once a day. In France the
child is sent to be nursed in the country, and left to

156 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

the care of strangers. An Arab mother, on the other
hand, looks continually after her children. She watches
and nurses them with the greatest affection, and
never leaves them as long as they may stand in need
of her motherly care ; for which she is rewarded by
the fondest filial love. Her children repay her in a
great measure for all the disadvantages of polygamy,
and their affection renders her life more happy and
contented.

If foreigners had more frequent opportunities to
observe the cheerfulness, the exuberance of spirits,
even, of Eastern women, they would soon and more
easily be convinced of the untruth of all those
stories afloat about the degraded, oppressed, and
listless state of their life. It is impossible to gain a
true insight into the actual domesticity in a few mo-
ments' visit. And the conversation carried on on those
formal occasions hardly deserves that name ; there is
barely more than the exchange of a few commonplace
remarks — and it is questionable if even these have
been correctly interpreted.

Notwithstanding his innate hospitality, the Arab has
the greatest possible objection to having his home
pried into by those of another land and creed. When-
ever, therefore, a European lady called upon us, the
enormous circumference of her hoops (which were the
fashion then, and took up the entire width of the stairs)
was the first thing to strike us dumb with wonder ;
after which the very meagre conversation generally
confined itself on both sides to the mysteries of the
different costumes ; and the lady retired as wise as
she was when she came, after having been sprinkled

woman's position in the east. 157

over by the Eunuchs with ottar of roses, and being
the richer for some parting presents. It is true, she
had been to and entered a Harem, she had seen the
much-pitied oriental ladies (though only through their
veils), she had with her own eyes seen our dresses,
our jewellery, the nimbleness with which we sat down
on the floor — and that was all. She could not boast
of having seen more than any other foreign lady who
had called before her. She is conducted upstairs and
downstairs again by the Eunuchs, and is watched all
the time. Barely she sees more than the reception
room, and more rarely still can she guess or find out who
the veiled lady is with whom she conversed. In short,
she has had no opportunity whatsoever of learning
anything of domestic life or the position of Eastern
women.

It is essential to know another fact in order to
understand oriental wedded life properly. The mar-
riage of a girl neither changes her name nor the rank
she has held previously. The wife of a prince, de-
scended from the family of a simple citizen, will never
think of demanding equality of rank with her husband
— she remains always the daughter (bint) of N. or H.
On the other hand, an Arab prince or chief often allows
his daughter or sister to marry one of his slaves. He
reasons thus : " My servant will remain her servant,
and she will always be his mistress. ,, Only he ceases
to be a slave after marriage, but he, of course, ad-
dresses his wife as " Highness " or " mistress."

If a man has occasion to mention his wife in the
course of conversation, which he avoids doing if he
can, he never calls her, "my wife," but always "the

158 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

daughter of N. N." At best he uses the expression,
" Um Ijali," i.e., " mother of my family," whether she
has children or none.

It stands to reason that people who marry, being
previously unacquainted with each other, do not
always agree ; or there may arise difficult and pain-
ful circumstances from other causes, such as I men-
tioned in the cases of my father and Schesade and of
Madjid and Asche. In cases like these the Mahome-
tan law has the great advantage of facilitating a
divorce. It is decidedly preferable that two people
completely at variance in their views and disposition
should be able to separate in peace, to being com-
pelled to remain chained together — often a cause for
crime. In such a case the wife has her whole dowry
returned, the disposal of which also rests with her
during her wedded state. If the divorce has been
moved by the husband, she also retains the marriage
settlement made by him, which, however, she cancels
on sueing herself for the divorce.

I trust the above will suffice to demonstrate that
woman in the East is not at all the degraded or
oppressed and outlawed being she is generally be-
lieved ; she is by no means a cypher. What power
and how great an influence some women may gain I
have already pointed out in speaking of my step-
mother, Azze bint Sef. She ruled our father com-
pletely, and court and public affairs depended in most
cases on her verdict. All attempts on the part of her
step-children to weaken her influence completely failed,
although their efforts were, if at no other time, per-
teoklj united in this aim. Any request of ours, made

woman's position in the east. 159

to our father in person, was invariably referred to her
final decision, even ift matters that might be thought
to have been beneath her consideration. While my
father lived she ruled with a rod of iron.

Here is a case in point : The daughter of the com-
manding officer of one of our fortresses in Oman came •.
over to Zanzibar with her husband. They were pretty
well off, and had no children — " fortunately," as the
lady told me herself. She was very clever and witty
(wit is nowhere more valued than with us) but fright-
fully ugly. Her husband, nevertheless, adored her,
and bore all her whims and humours with an angelic
patience. When she walked out he had to accom-
pany her, whether he liked it or not. He could never
dispose of his time himself, and in the morning after
prayers he had to wait for orders from mistress Asche,
to know if she deigned to remain at home with him
or intended to go out for the day. He was altogether
her slave.

I will only speak of one more member of our family,
whose history contradicts better than anything else
all the fabrications about the inferiority of Eastern
women. My great-aunt, my grandfather's sister, is
to this day held up as the model of a clever, coura-
geous, and energetic woman. The history of her life
and of her deeds is told over and over again to old
and young, and listened to with awe.

My grandfather, the Sultan Im&m, of Mesket, in
Oman, left at his death three children : my father
Said, my uncle Salum, and my aunt Asche. My
father was only nine years old at the time, and a
regency had to be established. Oft&rar^ \j& ^

160 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

custom, my great-aunt at once declared in the most
decided manner that she would carry on the govern-
ment herself until her nephew was of age, and she
suffered no opposition. The ministers, who had never
anticipated such a thing, and who had already in
secret congratulated themselves on the prospect of
ruling the country for some years, could do nothing
but submit. They had to make their reports to her,
and to receive her instructions and commands every
day. She closely watched and knew everything, and
nothing could remain concealed from her, to the great
vexation and annoyance of all the disloyal and idle
officials.

Personally, she put aside all rules of etiquette ; re-
gardless of what people might say, she merely wore
her schele in the presence of the ministers, and went
her own way with energy and firmness.

Her courage was soon put to a very severe test.
Not long after she had taken up the reins of govern-
ment a very serious war broke out — unfortunately, a
frequent occurrence in Oman. Some of our next of
kin had thought it an easy affair to overthrow the
government of a woman, to extinguish our house, and
possess themselves of power. Their hordes ravaged
the country with fire and sword, and advanced close
to the gates of Mesket. Thousands of country people
from the sacked provinces had already fled for shelter
and protection into the city, leaving all their goods
and chattels behind. Mesket is strongly fortified, and
well able to stand a siege, but of what use are the
strongest walls when provisions and ammunition are
exhausted ?

WOMAN'S POSITION IN THE BAST. 161

But in this terrible distress my great-aunt proved
herself equal to the occasion, and she even gained the
admiration of the enemy. Dressed in man's clothes,
she inspected the outposts herself at night, she watched
and encouraged the soldiers in all exposed places, and
was saved several times only by the speeed of her
horse in unforeseen attacks. One night she rode out,
oppressed with care, having just received information
that the enemy was about to attempt an entrance into
the city by means of bribery that night, and with
intent to massacre all, and now she went to convince
herself of the loyalty of her troops. Very cautiously
she rode up to a guard, requesting to speak to the
"Akid" (the officer in charge), and did all in her
power to seduce him from his duty by great offers of
reward on the part of the besiegers. The indignation
of the brave man, however, completely allayed her
fears as to the fidelity of the troops, but the experi-
ment nearly cost her her own life. The soldiers were
about to massacre the supposed spy on the spot, and
it required all her presence of mind to make good her
escape.

The situation, grew, however, to be very critical at
Mesket. Famine at last broke out, and the people
were well-nigh distracted, as no assistance or relief
could be expected from without. It was, therefore,
decided to attempt a last sortie in order to die at least
with glory. There was just sufficient powder left for
one more attack, but there was no more lead for either
guns or muskets. In this emergency the regent ordered
iron nails and pebbles to be used in place of balls, tho
guns were loaded with all the old \xcra. mA\s»» *vfcs&>

162 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

could be collected, and she opened her treasury to
have bullets made out of her own silver dollars. Every
nerve was strained, and the sally succeeded beyond all
hope. The enemy was completely taken by surprise,
and fled in all directions, leaving more than half their
men dead and wounded on the field. Mesket was
saved, and, delivered out of her deep distress, the
brave woman knelt down on the battle field and
thanked God in fervent prayer.

From that time her government was a peaceful one,
and she ruled so wisely that she was able to transfer
to her nephew, my father, an empire so unimpaired
as to place him in a position to extend the empire by
the conquest of Zanzibar. It is to my great-aunt,
therefore, that we owe, and not to an inconsiderable
degree, the acquisition of this second empire.

She, too, was an Eastern woman !

CHAPTER XVII.

ARAB MATCHMAKING.

In Arabia matches are generally arranged by the
father, or by the head of the family. There
is nothing peculiar in this, as the same is done
even in Europe, where man and woman are allowed
to meet freely. Does it not often happen here that
a reckless father who has run deeply into debt sees
no way out of his difficulties but by the sacrifice of his
pretty daughter to some creditor ; or that a fashion-
able, pleasure-loving mother hurries her child into
marriage for the sole purpose of obtaining an undis-
puted sway ?

Amongst the Arabs there are just as many despotic
parents, who care as little for the happiness of their
children, or listen to the voice of conscience. But it
is not abuse of power alone which makes parents in
those parts choose for their children ; they are com-
pelled to do so by the retired life of the women;
though even by this seclusion a meeting with men
cannot always be prevented. But it is a general rule
that a girl must not see (except perhaps from the
window) nor talk to her future husband before the
evening of her wedding. Yet he has not been quite
a stranger to her — his mother, his *\starc& «xA wss^

164 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS,

have had frequent opportunities of describing him,
and telling her everything aftout him that may be of
interest.

Sometimes the young couple have been acquainted
in early youth, as girls are permitted, up to their
ninth year, to associate freely with boys of the same
age. In such a case the young man goes to the
father of his old playmate to ask for her hand, after
having secured her own consent through the media-
tion of his mother or sister.

In all such cases the cautious father asks : " But
where have you been able to see my daughter ? " To
which the reply is made : " As yet I have never had
the good fortune to see your honoured (makschume)
daughter — but I have heard a great deal about her
charms and virtues from my own people."

If the candidate does not suit, he is straightway
refused by the father, though, as a rule, the latter asks
for some little time to take the matter into considera-
tion. He does not mention a word at home about
what has occurred — but secretly and rigorously he
watches the conversation between his wife and
daughter. Occasionally, and in quite an indifferent
manner, he will speak of his intention to give a small
gentlemen's party in a few days, mentioning the
names of his friends with as little concern as
possible if the women require to be told them. If
they appear to be pleased at hearing the suitor's
name mentioned, he knows that some understanding
exists already between the two families. Then only
he informs his daughter that N. N. has asked for her
hand, and asks her opinion. Her yes or no are

ARAB MATCHMAKING. V 165

almost always decisive — only a despotic father takes
the decision upon himself "without waiting for his
daughter's acceptance or refusal.

Our father, too, showed in such questions his sense
of justice, and left his children to decide their own
lot. A distant cousin of ours, Sund, proposed for
my elder sister Zuene when she was barely twelve
years old. My father disapproved of his pro-
posal on account of her youth, but did not like ta
decline it altogether without having first consulted his
daughter. Zuene had lost her mother, and having no
one to advise her, she was so pleased with the idea of
being a married woman soon, that she insisted upon
accepting him, and my father gave his consent.

There are cases, it is true, in which children are
affianced and married in very early youth. Two
brothers had agreed upon the intermarriage of their
children, and, as it happened, they had only one
child each, the one a son, the other a daughter.
The marriage was already talked of when the boy
was seventeen, and the girl seven. The boy's mother,
who lived on an estate not far from my own, a very
prudent and sensible woman, often complained to me
of her husband and her brother-in-law, who insisted
upon her accepting a little child as daughter-in-law,
whom she would have to nurse and educate first,
while on the other hand the girl's mother was incon-
solable at having so soon to part with her daughter.
But they both only so far succeeded as to have the
wedding postponed for two years. I do not know
how the matter was finally settled, as I left Zanzibar
soon after.

166 MEMOIRS OF AN -ARABIAN PRINCESS.

•

All friends and acquaintances are formally in-
formed of the engagement by handsomely-dressed
female slaves, who, sometimes to the number of
twenty, go. from house to house with the announce-
ment and the invitation to the wedding, for which
message they are richly rewarded at each house.

The paternal home of the bride is now the scene of
much life and bustle, for the wedding generally takes
place within four weeks. Under any circumstances
the betrothal never lasts long, as but few arrange-
ments are, necessary in our blessed South. There we
know nothing of the hundred and one things con-
sidered indispensable to Northern people on such
occasions, and an Eastern bride would become
speechless with surprise at the sight of a European
trousseau. Why are people in these parts so very
fond of loading their new bark with such a quantity
of unnecessary ballast ?

The dowry of an Arab bride is comparatively a
small one ; according to her rank and wealth it con-
sists of rich dresses, jewellery, male and female
slaves, of houses, plantations, and ready money.
She gets presents from her parents, from those of her
affianced husband, and from the latter himself. All
this remains her personal and private property, and
the cost of her dowry is never deducted from her
share of the patrimony.

The making of the bride's dresses takes some time,
for a lady of rank has to change her toilet twice or
thrice a day during the first week after her marriage.
A bridal dress, like the white robe and veil here, is
not worn in the East, but the bride must put on

ARAB MATCHMAKING. 167

perfectly new garments from head to foot — the colour
of the dress is left to her taste. Some appear in all
the colours of the rainbow, yet their costume is
neither ugly nor without taste.

Special perfumes are prepared, which play an im-
portant part at the wedding feast — the Ehia, a costly
mixture of powdered sandal-wood, musk, saffron, and
plenty of ottar of roses, is used as an ointment for
the hair, and a pleasant incense, made of the wood
of the "ud" (a species of the aloe), of the finest amber,
and of a great deal of musk. An Eastern lady never
can get too many perfumes.

Then comes the baking, the preparing of sweet-
meats, and the slaughtering of cattle, which occupies
all hands fully.

The bride herself has yet to go through several un-
pleasant and tiresome ceremonies. During the last
eight days she has to stay in a dark room, nor must
she put on any of her finery, so that she may appear
all the more resplendent on her wedding-day. All
this time she is a much-to-be-pitied creature — visit
follows upon visit, all the old women whom she
knows, and her nurses foremost of all, whom perhaps
she has not seen for years, come to her with hands
open ready to receive. The chief of the eunuchs, who
has shaved off her first hair, who is very proud of
this service of honour rendered to her once, begs to
offer his congratulations, and returns his way with a
souvenir — either a costly shawl, a ring for the little
finger of the left hand, a watch, or some guineas.

The bridegroom is spared this imprisonment in a
dark room, but otherwise he has to undergo cyiite *&

168 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

many trials. All those who have ever been in his
service or in that of his bride come to him before
calling upon her, and in this way they obtain double
presents.

The bridegroom stays at homo during the last
three days, and only his most intimate friends visit
him. But there is a lively intercourse between the
two families — for there is no end to the interchange
of compliments and of presents between bridegroom
and bride.

The great day appears at last. Generally the
nuptial ceremony is performed in the evening at the
bride's house, and not in the mosque. The act is per-
formed by a Kadi, or, if no such is to be had, by a
reputedly devout man. It may appear strange to a
European, that the principal person, the bride, is not
present herself during the solemn act ; she is repre-
sented by her father, her brother, or some other near
male relation.

She only appears before the Kadi in person if she has
no male relations at all, to be united to her bridegroom
with the customary ceremonies. In this case, she
enters the empty room first, completely muffled, after
which the Kadi, the bridegroom, and the witnesses
are admitted. After the conclusion of the ceremony,
in which the voice of the bride is barely audible, the
gentlemen leave first to let the newly-married wife
retire to her apartments.

All the gentlemen, the bridegroom included, par-
take of a sumptuous feast. Whilst this lasts, the
room in which it takes place is richly perfumed with
incense of ud and of ottar of roses.

ARAB MATCHMAKING*. 169

The surrender of the bride to the bridegroom does
not always follow upon the ceremony, but in most
cases three days later. Numerous persons are now
engaged in dressing her in her finest garments, and ,
at about nine or ten in the evening of the third day
she is conducted by her female relations to her new
abode, where the bridegroom receives her in company
with his male relations. Before the entrance to the
private rooms, leave is taken with many congratula-
tions and blessings, and the company then retire to
the reception-rooms on the ground floor, to celebrate
the marriage by merrily feasting for several days.

Some rules of etiquette are always to be observed
when the bridegroom has entered the bride's apart-
ment. If her rank is higher than his, she remains
quietly seated, nor deigns to speak to him until he has
first addressed her, and meanwhile still retains her
costly mask, which covers her features. Then, to prove
his affection, and as a bribe for the removal of the mask,
the young husband places at her feet such presents

as his means can afford. A few pence will suffice
with poor people — but by rich ones large sums are
spent on these offerings.

On the same evening, a general entertainment com-
mences in the house of the young husband, which
lasts three, seven, and even fourteen days. Friends,
acquaintances, strangers — all are welcome, and may
eat and drink as long as they will. There is, of course,
neither wine nor beer, and even smoking is not allowed
with the sect of the " Abadites," to which we belong
— but that does not prevent people from being very

merry and jolly. There are plenty oi ^qSl^cc^^ \*&
12

170 MEMOIRS 07 AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

eat, and almond milk, lemonade, &c; songs are sung,
warlike dances are performed, and stories are listened
to. Eunuchs perfume the rooms with ud and sprinkle
rose-water over the guests, out of silver dishes.

The ladies always remain together till midnight,
hut the gentlemen stop all night till they are called
away to prayers in the morning.

Wedding tours are not known in the East. The
young couple spend their honeymoon quietly at home
the first week or fortnight, invisible to the outer
world. After this time, the young wife receives
visitors, and in the 6venings her apartments are
filled with her female friends, who have come to offer
their congratulations.

\
/

CHAPTER XVIII.

AN ARAB LADY'S GALL.

I have repeatedly mentioned that we made many
visits to, and received as many from, our friends and
acquaintances. It may be interesting to the reader
to learn a little more of such calls, and also about the
etiquette observed and the conversation on such
occasions.

If we wished to call upon any one, we had ourselves
announced on the same day by well-dressed female
slaves ; we rarely ventured to go without having done
so. In town our visits were made on foot, in the
country we rode. The finest dresses are, of course,
worn on such occasions, not only in honour of the
friend to be visited, but also to exhibit our costumes
and jewellery — just as it is done here !

An Arab lady is not permitted to show her face ; at
home it is generally, and walking abroad it is always,
covered by a mask, which is not like those worn by
Egyptian women, which are ugly, and render respira-
tion difficult. Our masks are nicely made of black
satin, trimmed with splendid lace of coloured silk, and
of gold and silver thread. They are in two parts, the
upper portion covering the forehead, the lower hiding
the nose and part of the cheeks. The eyes, the tip

172 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

of the nose, mouth, neck, and half of the cheeks
remain free. The mask is fastened with long chains,
twisted several times round th# head, serving at the
same time to keep the head-dress in its place.

Generally, Mahometan ladies do not walk abroad
into the public streets during the day — they mostly
do so early in the morning or in the evening, after
sunset. The streets in Zanzibar were not lit up at my
time ; we took lights with us to walk through the nar-
row, uneven, and dirty streets. A great deal of luxury
was carried on with these lanterns, of which the larger
ones sometimes were more than two yards in circum-
ference. The prettiest were sometimes small f ac-similes
of a Eussian church, a big cupola in the centre and
four smaller ones at the corners. The light in each
of these towers was reflected through glass windows,
white, red, green, yellow, or blue. A lady of rank
always had two or three such lanterns carried before
her, and it required very strong slaves for that.
Common citizens use one lantern only.

Eainy days, though they occur rarely, hang heavily,
as they admit of no sociability out of the house, and
prevent all intercourse with the outer world. Um-
brellas, these indispensable companions in the North,
are not owned by every one in the East, nor is it easy
to get one borrowed for a walk. The middle classes,
and sometimes the negroes, carry immense umbrellas
of Indian make, covered with yellow, green, or black
oil-skin.

Ladies of rank are accompanied by a large troop of
armed slaves, who look more martial however than
they really are. These attendants are very expensive,

AN ARAB LADY'S CALL. 173

as their weapons, with the exception of musket and
revolver, are always very costly and richly inlaid with
gold and silver. But 'that did not prevent the rogues
from selling their arms for a mere trifle, or pawning
them at some usurer's (these nice fellows are generally
Hindoos or Banyans) for the mere sake of quenching
their thirst for once in " Pombe " (palm wine). In
such cases the mistress can do nothing but redeem
the weapons at a tenfold rate, or equip the rascal
anew, and let a well-deserved, severe chastisement be
administered to him at the same time. Nothing,
however, could break them of their equanimity in
disposing of their masters' property, which was
always a heavier item than the buying of the
"slaves.

The vanguard was led by ten to twenty of these
armed fellows, two or three in a line carrying lan-
terns; the mistress, with an Arab companion, fol-
lowed ; and a number of well-dressed female slaves
closed the procession.

The slaves turned all people, high or low, passing
the street at the same time, out of the way ; and to
let the procession pass, they were obliged to take
refuge in a by-street or in some open doorway. This
measure, however, could only be carried through by
members of the reigning family — other great ladies
were not so easily obeyed, and the lower classes rarely
disposed themselves with alacrity to clear the way.

It was a very pretty spectacle to see such a long
procession move on with lanterns ; and although
Southern custom prescribes that perfect decorum be
observed in the public streets, it would be almost too

174 MEMOIES OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

much to expect that such a merry party could proceed
many yards in total silence-and there is a general
rush to doors and windows to see it pass. If a sister
or lady friend was met in the street, the processions
joined and formed into a large one.

Having arrived at the place of destination, we were
at once announced; after which, we followed the
servants into the reception rooms, or, on moonlight
nights, up to the clean paved roof.

The hostess is seated on her " Medde," a seat some
six inches high above the ground, which is covered
with rich cloth of gold, reclining against a " Tekje," a
cushion put against the wall. It is not customary
for her to rise and meet her visitors as courtesy
requires in this country ; she only rises to express her
pleasure, or in honour of the rank and station of the
calling lady.

Arab women are very reserved to strangers, whether
of high or low station ; but whenever they meet you
as friends the difference in birth and rank disappears
at once. It is true that Southern women are more
easily inclined to be jealous, but they also love more
intensely than the children of the cold North ; there
the heart is allowed to speak for itself, while here the
cool, calculating mind rules alone — which no doubt is
as well, considering the different mode of life.

The visitors kiss the hands of the hostess, her
head, and the hem of her shawl (persons of equal
rank only shake hands), and they then seat them-
selves. Only a lady of the same rank can sit down
on the Medde— -those of an inferior station in life
have to sit at some distance.

AN ARAB LADY'S CALL. 175

The mask is retained ; with the exception of the
shoes no part of the dress is removed, not even the
Scheie, In walking, the wooden sandals are re-
placed by the richly-embroidered "Kosch," a kind
of leather slipper with broad heel. The shoes are
slipped off before entering the i;oom, and this custom
is followed from the sovereign down to the slave. It
is the business of the attending slaves to place these
shoes, which are all much alike, in such a way that
the owner on leaving can at once step into them.
Even in this there is a strict rule of etiquette main-
tained : the slippers of the lady highest in rank are
placed in the centre, and all the others round in a
circle.

Coffee is then handed round in little cups, and this
is repeated whenever a new visitor appears; fruits
and sweetmeats are served besides.

The hostess is not required to keep up the conversa-
tion, and certainly not such a formal one as in these
parts, from mere politeness. People are perfectly
natural, and talk about everything they can think of.
There are no theatres or concerts, balls or circuses,
that can be talked about ; nor are there any bright
remarks made on the state of the weather. The con-
versation turns mostly on personal affairs and on
agricultural pursuits, for which every lady of rank
has a taste. There is nothing to check or restrain
good spirits, and jests are exchanged without anxious
regard to dignity. It is one of the greatest blessings
Southern people enjoy, that they are nearly always
bright and merry. Why should they not be so, when
their serene and bright sky at all times sets them so

176 MEMOIRS 'OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

good an example ? And how should they have fits of
the blues when Nature grants them so bountifully all
they need and can wish for ?

During visiting hours the master of the house does
not come into the rooms of his wife, daughter, or
mother. The sovereign only, and his nearest male
relations, are dispensed fron\this rule ; but whenever
a lady cousin of equal rank from Oman was present,
even our brothers and nephews were not allowed to
enter without being announced. The husband of a
married sister, upon whom I call, remains in his
reception room until I have departed. If the master
of the house is compelled to talk about some matter
of moment to one of his female relations, he has her
called into another room. The same is done by ladies
who wish to speak to their male relations, when these
are engaged with their friends. This custom is
rigorously observed even if a lady stays with her
friend all day, say from half-past five a.m. to seven
o'clock p.m. ; and the gentlemen are frequently put
to a great deal of inconvenience to avoid coming across
strange ladies.

Still the Oriental bears the inevitable with in-
credible patience; for he has been reared in these
views, and has lived no other life. The force of habit
and its influence remains alike everywhere. I do not
at all deny that many things in the East are exagge-
rated, and may appear superfluous. But are people
in Europe quite free from such conventional tyranny
and foolish customs ? In one country the strictest
reserve is observed in the intercourse between men
and women ; the most licentious liberty prevails in

DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 217

and would wish to return home at once. After a
short stay, however, they are more susceptible and
credulous than all the rest put together.

But enough of this melancholy subject !

In conclusion, I should like to ask if it would not
be more humane to import female physicians into
Zanzibar instead of those horribly demoralizing
spirituous liquors ? Must corruption always precede
civilization? There is a great opening here for
Christian charity, that would bear fruit hundredfold,
without any great obstacles in the way. For my part
I am perfectly willing, in case a society undertake to
send out a qualified person, to instruct the same in
Arabic and Suahely ; this is the least service I can d6
my dear native home. But it must be a female
physician ; she will be able to do more good in the
East than ten medical men combined. A kind woman
with pleasing manners would be received with open
arms by all Eastern ladies. She would not only find
herself well rewarded, but soon acknowledge herself
that she is doing a good and charitable deed.

•i

CHAPTEB XIX.

THE AUDIENCE. INTERCOURSE BETWEEN GENTLEMEN.

Twice a day, by an old-established custom, all the
male relations, the ministers and officials — in fact, all
those who wish to see or speak to him— are allowed
free access to the sovereign in the morning after
breakfast and later in the day, after fourth prayer.
The audience chamber (barze) was on the ground-
floor, in a wing of the palace, built close to the sea-
shore, and at high tide the water came right up
to its walls; there was a magnificent view far out
into the sea from its windows. It was a very large
chamber, and yet not sufficiently so to contain, at
times, all persons who appeared. The furniture was
in the same plain style as in all Arab rooms, con-
sisting only of some carpets, of tall looking-glasses,
some clocks, and of a number of chairs ranged along
the walls.

As no Arab of rank goes out by himself, there
was always a crowd of some hundreds of followers
outside the doors waiting for the return of their
masters and friends. As many of them as could find
a place sat down on the stone seats provided, the
remainder stood about in the open court of the palace.

THE AUDIENCE. m 179

To us this was always a very interesting spectacle —
for the gentlemen appeared at the audiences in their
state-dresses, that is to say, with turbans, and in the
long overcoat (djocha) reaching down to the ankles,
with their scarves girt round.

At home the Arab covers his shaven head with a
white skull-cap, which is sometimes very handsomely
embroidered, but whenever he walks abroad he puts
on his turban (amame). It requires a great deal of
skill to twist it up, and takes some people more than
half an hour to arrange it properly. It must be taken
off very carefully, so that it may not collapse ; but, as
a rule, it is built up afresh every time it is worn.
The cloth used for it is not expensive, and only costs
some five to eight dollars ; much more costly, how-
ever, is the material for the scarves (mahsem), their
price varying from twenty to two hundred dollars
each; it is of silk richly interwoven with gold and
silver thread. A man of rank possesses a great many
scarves, and changes them as frequently as people in
this country change ties ; old and devout men, who
no longer care for fashion, wear only mahsems of
plain white or black silk. The Arab's full dress is
not complete without his weapons, as I already
mentioned before. They are generally handed to him
by his wife or daughter, or by his son, when he is
about to leave the house.

Before entering the audience-chamber, the gentle-
men slip off their shoes, and by the manner in which
this is done the different ranks can be easily dis-
tinguished. The common people, for instance, take
off their "watjes" some distance from the door;

180 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

those of rank and station just in front of it. This
is not ordered by some " despotic " law, it is an es-
tablished and voluntary action. The Arab is ac-
customed of old to pay respect to every station, and
his sentiments to his sovereign and to his house are
instinctively loyal.

As soon as the audience-chamber is full, the sultan
opens the proceedings. During my father's life, the
procession was formed in the following manner: A
detachment of negro guards came first ; then a
number of young eunuchs headed by the chief
eunuchs ; behind these my father, followed by his
sons, the youngest closing up the column. In front
of the entrance to the barze the guards and eunuchs
formed into double line, through which my father,
with his sons, passed into the chamber. All rose to
salute him, and the same order of procession was
repeated when he retired from the assembly. If a
man of rank wished tb leave the room before the
audience was over, my father used to walk with him
a few steps, and the whole company rose. To Euro-
peans this may appear peculiar, and the liberty
allowed to every one to come in and go without being
dismissed by the monarch, or until the latter had
left himself, is to a certain extent quite in opposition
to the usual ceremonious bearing of the Arab.

At the morning audiences coffee was rarely served,
but this was always done at those of the evening, after
which business began. Everybody had a right to
come forward and prefer a request, or to bring in a
complaint, and to ask for a decision in his case.
Nearly all the proceedings were verbal ones — either

THE AUDIENCE. 181

to settle affairs or give judgments in writing is much
disliked. Petty business was mostly referred to the
ministers or to the kadis (judges), and even to the
chief eunuchs. The audience continued for two to
three hours ; people who had not got their business
settled within this time, or who had come in too
late, were ordered by the chief eunuchs to let the
arbitration stand over till next day.

From the age of fourteen to sixteen the princes are
permitted to assist at the assembly ; afterwards they
are even obliged to. In the same way every notable
is obliged to put in an appearance, to show his loyalty
and respect to his sovereign, unless he be prevented
by some urgent reason. If any such notable absent
himself for several days running, the reason for his
absence is at once inquired into at his house, and in
case of sickness he may count upon a speedy visit from
his master ; not even the most contagious diseases,
such as cholera or smallpox, will prove a hindrance —
indeed, this will prevent no one from going near him,
for all things are predestined and ordered by God.
The nurses of the sick man, his wife, mother, or other
females, of courso leave the sick-room while other
men are present.

Every Arab of standing has such a barze on the
ground floor of his house, quite apart from the
ladies' rooms, and there he generally lives and re-
ceives his friends. In most cases, the floor is paved
with black and white slabs of French marble, and to
keep the chamber cool there are neither carpets nor
mats in it.

The gentlemen have the same visiting hours as the

182 MEMOIRS OF AN ABABUN PRINCESS.

ladies, after seven o'clock in the evening. The Arab
never goes ont without a certain aim or object ; he
never dreams of taking the so-called constitutional
walk, and if he sees a European pacing up and down
on the roof of his house in the evening, he thinks he
is saying his prayers in a fashion peculiar to
Christians.

I need not add anything about the ceremonials or
the conversation carried on at these gentlemen's calls ;
they are much the same as with the ladies, only there
are more topics to be talked about, such as the affairs
of town and country, the features of the last audience,
the petitions and various lawsuits either pending or
settled. To all these parties, and to the audiences
especially, Europeans are freely admitted, and thus
the patriarchal way of living with us, its advantages
and disadvantages, are much better known in the
North than anything connected with an Eastern
woman's secluded life.

CHAPTER XX.

THE LONG PAST.

Most people may have heard that the Mahometans
have to fast some time every day for a whole month,
until the sun has sunk below the horizon, but the
Mahometan fasting is not like that of the Roman
Catholics, which is very easy in comparison. Every
Moslim fasts himself and makes his children do so
after their twelfth year. My mother being very devout,
I had to keep the month of the Rumdan (thus
pronounced by us, and not as it is here generally,
Ramadan) from the time when I was nine years old.
It is indeed no easy matter for a child of that age
to eat and drink nothing whatever for fourteen hours
and a half every day. Thirst being much more trying
in the tropics than hunger, and having very little
conception of religious duties at that age, I admit I
more than once* quenched my thirst secretly with
water. When questioned by my mother, I ruefully
confessed my sin, and was only forgiven after promising
not to trespass again. The rules are so strict, that it
is even considered wrong to swallow the saliva, and
for the first few days I was in such a drooping state,
that I was sent away to sleep, to get over the time.

184 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

The beginning of the fast is signalled at four o'clock
in the morning by firing from the ship ; from that
very moment you cease eating, you put down the cup
untouched that you were about to raise to your lips.
After these shots no grown-up person in sound health
touches either meat or drink; people sleep, however,
a good deal during the day, to enable them to enjoy the
pleasures of the table at night.

The sun sets at six o'clock ; at half-past six, after
prayers, the fast is broken. Beautiful fruit and cool
water are taken as first refreshment, and then the
whole family meets, and with every conceivable variety
of delicacies makes up for lost time.

During the month of Kumdan, the Arab completely
puts aside his ordinary simple habits, and devotes
himself completely to suftptuous feasting.

On the whole, it is a very social time — hymns are
sung throughout the evenings and nights, stories are
told, while eating and drinking go on uninter-
ruptedly. At midnight a gun gives the signal for those
who have gone to sleep, to get up for the night meal
(Suhur), which is taken between three and four in the
morning, and even the little children who have been
put to bed at ten o'clock, are roused to take part in
it. The Suhur is generally served to all persons
separately in their own rooms.

In this manner the whole month is passed. Faint-
ing fits occur frequently at its commencement, and
people grow visibly thin and slender — but gradually
they get more accustomed to this mode of life, and
they sleep less in the daytime than they did at
first.

THE LONG FAST. 185

The fast is kept very strictly, and the head of the
bouse keeps his slaves to it, especially those engaged
in the household and the personal attendants. An
exception is only made with slaves working on the
plantations, who, having for the most part no religion
at all, are at liberty to fa*t or not.

Children and all invalids are dispensed, of course,
but the latter have to make up, after recovery, for the
days missed, by an equal number of unbroken fastings
in the course of the year. The same rule is valid for
people travelling at this time.

The fasting season is not meant to bo a mere pro-
bation to the outer man — it is intended to be a time
of serious reflection to the devout Mahometan. He
endeavours to discover his own deficiencies, and prays
for forgiveness of his sins, in the same way as a good
Christian spends Lent and the Holy Week. Even
dangerous beasts are spared during this holy time, and
every one endeavours to do as much good as ho can.
Thus the Bumdan is intended to be, as far as possible, a
time of " Peace on earth, and goodwill towards men."
Those who may at all other times lead a heedless life,
are in this month's rigid service of their Lord brought
nearer and raised to Him.

The traditional hospitality of the Arab never shows
itself more than in this period, when it is con-
sidered a religious duty. All those who have a family
or a household of their own, entertain as many
strangers as they can find, olten without inquiring
their names. They request the warden of the mosque
they habitually attend to send them a certain num-
ber of poor to their evening meals. The pergqng
13

186 MEMOIRS OF AN ABABIAN PRINCESS.

The Eumdan is in some respects like Christmas-
time. A great many presents are distributed on the
first day of the following month, Schewal, which is
one of the great feast days of the Mahometans. These
presents consist but rarely of ladies' fancy work ; in
general they are articles purchased ready made. The
best business is done by goldsmiths and jewellers —
nearly all of these are Hindoos and Banyans, and they
are without exception the most mendacious crew.
They are, however, very clever workmen, and have
succeeded in driving all the Arab goldsmiths out of
the field. They have plenty to do before the feast ;
they get more orders than they can execute, but under-
take them nevertheless. To insure our orders being
executed in time, we had to send a couple of armed
slaves to the workshop to watch our work being done,
and to prevent other orders being finished first.
These may seem rather strong measures, but we had
no choice else. One of my sisters first suggested this
expedient.

The presents most preferred consisted of arms. To

THE LONG FAST. 187

European ladies it may sound odd that a woman
makes a present of weapons to her husband, her
brother, her son, or her bridegroom. But it must be
remembered that these are not ordinary arms, but
perfect gems of workmanship, and Arabs do not mind
paying fabulous sums for them — when they are in-
tended as presents.

Many other things are bestowed besides jewels and
arms, such as beautiful horses, white riding donkeys,
and — it will shock the civilized European to hear it —
even slaves !

The last week of the Bumdan is spent with great
preparations in every household for this feast, and as
the first day of Schewal draws nearer, there is much
bustling in getting the presents and everything else
ready in time. The night of the twenty-seventh day
is considered the most holy one, it being the " night
of value," in which Mhamed received the Kuran from
heaven. The prayers on this particular night are
uttered with the full conviction of their being granted.

On the last day of the month, the twenty-ninth or
thirtieth (our months have only twenty-nine or thirty
days, and our year three hundred and fifty-five days),
all try to be the first to discover the new moon. In
our country only scholars are initiated into the use
of the almanacs — but on this occasion its prognostica-
tions alone would not avail, as the new moon must be
clearly seen before the fast can be said to be at an
end — a discovery which is rarely retarded by clouds
in our deep blue southern vault.

Opera and field-glasses are passed from hand to
hand — friends and acquaintances from a long distance

188 MEMOIRS 07 AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

send to get the loan of one for a short time. Keen-
eyed men are sent up to the roof of the fort (a remnant
of the Portuguese dominion) and to the mastheads of
our ships to signal the first approach of the silvery
crook.

The greatest excitement always prevailed in our
palace. Forgetting that a shot fired off on board the
ships right in front of us could hardly have passed
unnoticed some one cries out every now and then,
" There's the signal," " Hark ! " all of which of
course are false alarms, till at last a crash shakes our
building from roof to basement, and immediately on
that follow cries of joy from every soul in the town,
with the words, " Id mbarak " (a happy feast to you).
People on distant plantations despatch mounted mes-
sengers into the town to learn and bring back the
longed-for news, or they send slaves up into high
trees to watch the horizon; but should any false
alarm cause the fast to be broken before its lawful
termination, then the shortcoming must be made up,
which is a harder trial while it lasts than the whole
month put together.

CHAPTER XXI.

THE LITTLE FESTIVAL.

As I have already said, the preparations for the cele-
bration of this feast begin a week beforehand. A
large supply of bullocks, sheep, goats, gazelles, fowls,
and ducks, has been provided (veal is not* used, and
pork forbidden to Mahometans), and the stalls are
barely large enough to hold all the beasts. The
eunuchs of rich people are very busy changing gold
pieces and guineas for silver dollars, to be distributed
during the festival among the poor, especially among
the numerous poor from Oman.

Immediately after the signal, announcing that the
celebration of the so-called " little festival " is to take
place on the morrow, a very picturesque and lively
spectacle is enacted in every Arab house. People,
whose usual demeanour is staid and dignified, rush
about hurriedly to offer congratulations to all their
dear ones, and in this high-water-mark state of
general brotherhood inveterate enemies are frequently
seen to shake hands. There is such hurrying and
scurrying, such talking in various languages, and
such quarrelling among the slaves, who have yet to
get through some work, all through the night, that it
is impossible to get any rest whatever.

190 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

The butchers (slaves) rush upon their bellowing
and squeaking victims, and despatch them with the
words, " In the name of the Lord, the merciful; " the
throats of the animals are. cut in a strictly ritual
manner, the heads quickly severed from the body,
and after being skinned the animals are sent into the
kitchens at once to be prepared for the festive meal
of the morrow. On such an evening our slaughtering
yard was changed into a lake of blood; for this reason
all the Banyans at Zanzibar, who are vegetarians,
looked upon our feasts with much horror, and took
care not to come near any such places at this time.
I have already spoken of these Banyans as the prin-
cipal traders and money-lenders in the town, and in
the last capacity they are, beyond a doubt, 4he
greatest cut-throats imaginable; they are bitterly
hated on this account, and on occasions like these
there is a splendid opportunity for their victims to
take revenge upon them. Among the lower-class
people it is a standing joke to entice the Banyans,
who never allow any chance of business to slip out of
their grasp, under pretence of some important order,
into these blood-streaming yards, which is the
greatest insult that can be offered to the star-
worshippers, of whom it can be said, however, in spite
of their low, moral standing, that they adhere
religiously to their code in being strict vegetarians.

In some of the ladies' chambers the burning ques-
tion of dress is still being gone into or revived before
the morning. Every fair one desires to surpass the
other. Three complete costumes are required for the
three feast days, every item of which must be brand

THE LITTLE FESTIVAL. 191

new. Incredible quantities of fresh roses, jessamine,
orange-blossom, musk, amber, and all kinds of the
finest Oriental perfumes and essences are used during
this time. Many an Arab lady spends more than
five hundred dollars on perfumery alone, and no
nerves could stand these conglomerate strong scents
if the doors and windows were not always kept
open.

The henna is an important article of an Eastern
lady's toilet, particularly on festive occasions; it is
prepared from the leaves of a medium-sized tree, and
serves to dye the feet of the women and children red.
This henna, so indispensable to Eastern ladies, is
used for two purposes — as a remedy for boils, prickly
heat, itching, and the like, and as an ointment for
the bands and feet. The leaves, resembling those of
the ihyrtle, are not efficacious if used alone ; they are
dried, pulverized, and mixed with some lemon-juice
and water. A stiff paste is made of this, which must
be exposed to the sun for several hours, when used it
is again softened with lemon juice.

The lady who is about to undergo the dying pro-
cess is stretched out full length on her back, and is
not allowed to stir. The paste is put on the sole of
the feet, the toes included, about an inch thick — the
upper part of the feet is never dyed ; soft leaves are
then applied as a covering, and the whole is tightly
wrapped in linen. The same process is gone through
with the palm of the hand and the fingers. To keep
the application in its place, she must remain all night
perfectly still without moving; for no other parts
but those named must have the dye, and a smudge

192 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

on the back of the hand or on the finger-joints is con-
sidered a great disfigurement.

All this time she is dreadfully teazed by the
swarms of mosquitoes and flies, but she dare not move
to drive them away. In the upper classes women
slaves have to watch all night by their mistress, to
keep these plagues off with fans until the paste can
be removed in the morning. The same process must
be gone through three nights running, to obtain the
desired dark red tint ; then it sticks for about four
weeks, and resists all washing.

I remember reading once about a fashion that pre-
vailed in France at one time, of employing only one
particular hairdresser who was very clever, and that
this man, in order to satisfy on festive occasions his
numerous customers, had to begin his work on the
previous day, and that the ladies were compelled to
pass all night seated in their high-backed chairs
without stirring, so as not to disarrange their fashion-
able head-dress. This story reminded me very much
of my youth in the East, though the sufferings we
had to undergo for vanity's sake were even worse.

Middle-aged ladies and little children are not sub-
jected to this tormenting process ; they only employ the
henna as a cooling ointment, and wash their hands
with a liquid solution thereof.

The festive day has at last arrived ; as early as
four o'clock all are in full dress. More time is spent
over prayers, and more fervently this morning than
usual. At half-past five some ladies may be met
already hurrying along the gallery in all their magni-
ficent finery, showing their new dresses and jewels to

THE LITTLE FESTIVAL. 193

particular friends. It would not do to postpone this
to a later hour, for the general splendour by and by
would preclude any close and individual inspection,
and swallow up the due share of admiration. The
scene is something like that in a European ball-room,
with the difference that quieter colours or white
dresses prevail there. I wonder what a European
belle would think of an Arab lady's " full dress,"
and whether she would care to exchange her gauzy
and delicately tinted ball costume for the following
combination: a loose red silk dress, richly em-
broidered with gold thread in different patterns,
elaborately trimmed with gold or silver lace, and
satin trousers of bright green. It sounds odd, I own,
but habit soon does away with a great many of
our scruples. I was struck with something of the
same feeling, but from a perfectly opposite cause
when for the first time I saw people in Europe
dressed in sober grey and black. I was far from over-
joyed at having to adopt these dark shades myself,
and being told that they were conformable with good
taste and breeding.

The first gun is fired at six o'clock, to be followed
by the firing of a succession of shots in honour of
the Feast of the Faithful ; if there are any foreign
men-of-war in port, they also fire a salute of twenty-
one guns. Every Arab shows his joy on such a day
by letting off as many fireworks as he can — a
stranger might almost fancy himself in a bombarded
city. Every ship in port runs up whatever flags she
has, as do our own men-of-war.

An hour later all the mosques are crowded to

194 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

excess — no Arab stays at home on this day — and those
who cannot find a place within say their prayers in
the open street. Mahometan worship is atten3ed
with a great deal of bodily exertion; it prescribes
bowing down very low, and touching the ground with
the forehead repeatedly. To have to do this in a
dirty ill-paved street is decidedly unpleasant. The
faithful must not let their prayers be interrupted by
rain or thunderstorm, and on festive occasions, it is
specially ordained to say them either inside or close
to a mosque. Our father always went to the nearest
mosque on such days shortly before the hour for
prayers, followed by his numerous sons, and by a
very large retinue.

Meanwhile, there is a great deal of bustle in our
house to get everything ready for the entertainment
of the numerous people, who come to offer their con-
gratulations on the return of the gentlemen from the
mosque. As soon as the conclusion of the worship
is made known by the guns, everybody is free to
enjoy the good cheer offered, for the fast only closes
when the prayers in the mosque are over.

We waited for our father's return in his apartments,
from where we could see the crowds of visitors arrive.
On his entering the room, we all rose to congratulate
him, and to kiss his hands. This kissing of hands
continues all day, only, however, between people of
high rank ; the middle class kiss the head, or rather
the cloth on the head of those superior in station, and
common people kiss the feet.

The moment for the distribution of the presents
had now arrived. Accompanied by my sister Chole

THE LITTLE FESTIVAL. 195

and by Djohar, the chief of the upper eunuchs, both
of whom were not a little envied for this proof of
confidence, my father went into his treasury, which
contained a great variety of precious objects, such as
costly arms inlaid with precious stones, all kinds of
women's trinkets, from the plainest to the most ex-
pensive, rare materials for dresses, ordered expressly
from Persia, Turkey, or from China, ottar of roses
and other varieties of fine essences in large jars, from
which smaller bottles were filled, and any amount of
glittering gold pieces.

It was impossible to expect that our father should
know how much and what kinds of jewellery each of
his wives or daughters possessed, or what they desired
to have ; he generally inquired a few days beforehand
to learn the wishes of each, but Chole would again
refresh his memory when he selected the gifts.

The sorting was done by the eunuchs in our father's
presence, the name of the recipient was attached to
each article, and handed over by the eunuchs. The
presents were of course inspected at once, and it
occurred frequently that they were returned to our
father with the request to change them for something
else, which was granted in most cases, as he was ex-
tremely good-natured. He was always very liberal,
but never received anything in return. It is a beauti-
ful custom in Europe for children to offer presents to
their parents on their birthdays or at Christmas —
the head of an Eastern family does not fare so well.
Arab children never give a present to their father.

Hitherto, I have only spoken of the presents made
by my father to his family ; his obligations did not,

196 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

however, end there. On this day everybody expected
something ; he had to remember all high African or
Asiatic chiefs who happened to be in Zanzibar at the
time, his officials, the soldiers and their officers, the
captains of his ships and the crews, the managers of
his forty-five estates, and last, but not least, all his
slaves, exceeding 8,000 in number. The various gifts
were, of course, suited to the rank of the receiver ;
the slaves, for instance, merely received materials for
dresses. To all these many hundreds of poor may be
added, who sometimes came a fortnight afterwards
to claim a present ; on the whole, it was not a bad
time for the poor, who received rich donations from
• all the wealthy people.

A similar and quite as comprehensive a distribution
of presents took place at Bet il Mtoni. I often
wondered at the inexhaustible productiveness of the
treasure chamber to withstand such a drain, par-
ticularly on ready money, as was made upon it during
these three days, which proves, I think, that our
father was an excellent manager, and a clever business
man.

CHAPTEK XXII.

THE GREAT FESTIVAL.

The Mahometan celebrates only two great festivals
in the coarse of the year, and to a Roman Catholic
with his numerous saints' days this may seem very
strange. Two months intervene between the little
and the great feasts, called Id il hadj generally known
in Turkey and in Europe by the name of the great
Beiram feast.

It is a repetition of the one I have just described,
with the difference only that it is celebrated in a still
more beautiful and grander style, and is altogether of
a more solemn order. It is the time of the great
pilgrimage to Mekke,* which is the dearest wish of
every one of the Faithful to undertake at least once
during life. The devout Muslim cannot be deterred
by the danger of cholera and other epidemics, which
carry off many thousands of the pilgrims at times;
countless crowds join every year to seek forgiveness
of their sins in the holy city of the Prophet. These
poor people have to travel on foot over long distances;
and the manner in which they are conveyed in over-
crowded ships is really dreadful. Still they go,

* The word is pronounced as written above, and not Mekka.

198 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCE 8S.

putting their trust in the Lord, in whose hands their
life is. Truly, such faith, which knows not fear, and
shuns no hardship to carry out this religious duty,
may well hope for mercy.

This, the greatest feast of the Mahometans, falls
on the tenth day of the twelfth month of the year,
and lasts from three to seven days. Many hallow
the same hy a nine days' fast, beginning on the first
day of the month, in the same way as is done by the
devout pilgrims to Mekke.

Whoever can possibly afford it, procures a sheep,
which is killed on the first holiday, and distributed
among the poor. The law prescribes, that the sheep,
intended for this purpose, be of the very best quality,
and perfectly sound ; it must not have lost even a
single tooth. It is, of course, next to impossible to
procure so faultless a sheep, and we used to send
slaves all over the island a fortnight and more before
to obtain what we required, but- if none were to be
had near home, the slaves crossed over to the African
continent, where there is a greater abundance. The
owners knew that Arabs of high rank were ready to pay
any price for really fine sheep, and made their charges
according ; so that, added to the other expenses in-
curred in the purchase, each specimen represented
a somewhat disproportionate value.

No part, however, of the immolated animal may
be consumed by any of the family nor by the slaves —
every particle must be given away to the poor.

To them, the great feast is the most important
event of the whole year, as on this occasion one of
the most commendable of all Mahometan customs is

THE GREAT FESTIVAL. 199

made manifest, viz., the self-taxation in favour of the
poor.

With the exception of such half-cultured States as
Turkey, Egypt, and Tunis, public funds and shares
are things quite unknown in the true East ; nobody
understands the meaning of the word investment. All
the property consists in plantations, houses, slaves,
jewels, and ready money. Eeligious law exhorts
every Mahometan to give to the poor a tithe of the
yearly profit on his crops, the rental of his houses, or
any other source of income. At the same time he must
get all his property, consisting of precious stones and
gold and silver, valued by experts, and relinquish the
tenth part for the same purpose.

All this is done without any authorized civic super-
vision or control. Alone the voice of conscience
prompts to the performance of this duty. This law
of the Prophet is kept particularly sacred, and none
but people of really bad character ever try to elude
it. Moreover, this act of charity is never talked
about or inquired into, but is carried out on the pre-
cept that the left hand shall not know what the right
hand doeth.

This may account for the fact that such a great
number of beggars, if I may say so, are quite an in-
dispensable institution in every Mahometan state,
and also for the reason of this self-taxation. But
these poor people must not be compared with the
poor in these parts, who have far better claims on
our charity. For one-half of the Oriental beggars
possess more perhaps than they want. Begging is
their trade — it has become their second nature, and

200 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

they would never be fit for anything elfce. Their craft
is more often than not a heritage, and you may
happen to be accosted thus : " Why, don't you know
me ? I am the daughter (or the son, the sister-in-
law, &c.,) of So-and-so, to whom you always used to
give so much, when they were alive. Now I have
taken their place, and if you have any alms to give,
please be good enough to send them to such or such
a place."

Hundreds of such poor used to assemble for their
share of the alms we distributed in fulfilment of cer-
tain vows we made during the year. They gather
also under the windows of sick people, and alms given
in such cases are called " Satka." No Mahometan
will refuse the poor on such occasions, even if he has
to part with all he has. Whatever his motive may be
— real charity or the hope of being acceptable in the
eyes of God, I think it a beautiful custom.

Many of these beggars are covered with wounds
and sores — some go about minus some feature, and
otherwise horribly maimed and disfigured. They are
the victims of a very bad disease called Belas, which
attacks hands and feet first, and leaves these snow-
white ever after. Everybody flies from them, as the
taint is thought to be contagious. I cannot say
whether this is leprosy or not, but these unfortunates
always receive rich alms.

The giving away of presents does not, however,
stop with the feast itself. For those who may have
been ill or absent at the time do not forego their
right to their share of the alms. Weeks and months
may have passed away — the new feast may already

THE GREAT FESTIVAL. , 201

be close at hand — still they come and claim their
overdue present.

There is no other religious holiday for the next
nine or ten months — nothing to interrupt the even
and regular course of life, unless it be by some such
festivities already described or about to be described
in the next chapter. Birthdays are not celebrated in
our country.

CHAPTEE XXIIL

AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCHEMSCHEM.

When I was about fifteen years old, I wore one day
for the first time a red dress of silk brocade ; and
on the very next day some kind of inflammation
spread over my whole body. Old and experienced
people declared at once that I was bewitched, or that
some jealous being had cast an evil eye on the pretty
dress. I had, however, always been a great sceptic
in this respect, and declined to part with my new
dress, which, in spite of all warnings, I put on again.
Perhaps the dye really contained some poisonous
substance — or from some other unexplained reason — I
was taken ill again, and had to stay in bed. The
matter was now perfectly clear — I was not allowed to
wear the dress any more; therefore, to settle the
point, I gave it to a courageous citizen's wife, who
believed no more in witchcraft than I did. Had I
acted strictly in accordance with the prescribed pre-
caution in such cases, I should have ordered a u spell"
to be said over it, or had it burnt so as to completely
destroy its evil effect.

The above may serve as a little sample of the kind
of superstition that prevails in the East. I have

AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSOHEM8CHEM. 203

spoken on this subject before, and some more details
may follow now, connected with the rites of a certain
oblation, also originating in superstition.

Some springs are believed to possess special miracu-
lous powers — not their waters, but their presiding
spirits. Such a spirit will do all it can for those who
implicitly believe in and do honour to its power ; it
can cure the sick, restore lost people to their homes,
arrange a good match for those who wish to marry,
give childless parents their desire ; it can soften angry
parents, reconcile husband and wife and friends, re-
store lost property (such as gold, slaves, cattle, and
so forth) to its owners, make poor people as rich as
Croesus ; indeed there is no feat with which such a
spirit is not credited.

The favourite spring in the island of Zanzibar is
called Tschemschem ; it is situated some miles out
of the town. A visitor to this miraculous spot would
gain the impression that its spirit must be easily con-
tented, to judge from the poor quality of the gifts
presented. Poor people spend only a small bit of
cloth, two inches wide, left dangling about in the
wind, or an eggshell. The spirit is also rather partial
to all kinds of sweets (Halve), to perfumes, and in-
cense ; but to make quite sure of success, the tribute
must be paid in blood.

Tschemschem is visited by many afflicted people,
who have vowed to bring some such offering. There
is, however, always a cautious proviso attached to
these vows — the wish must be granted within a
certain stipulated time, otherwise the spirit goes
without his offering. If the spirit is not punctual to

204 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

time, the promise is cancelled, and there is an end of
it. In the reverse case the promise is faithfully
kept, often by the relations of those who have died
before their vow was fulfilled.

When quite a child I was frequently taken to one
of these sacred springs, and we always had a very
pleasant time there. But after I ceased to be called
" Kibibi," or little mistress, and had become "Bibi,"
or a real mistress, and when I was old enough to
observe and to think for myself, I only assisted
at one more oblation, which was, however, very
grand.

My sister Chadudj, now dead, had been seriously
ill for a long time, and her anxious attendants made
the vow that she should go to Tschemschem herself
to present an offering if she recovered life and health;
and when this came about she went to carry out the
promise made on her behalf.

Four weeks before the day appointed invitations
were issued to several of her favourite sisters, and
preparations on a large scale commenced at the same
time. Ten invitations to balls in Europe, all received
at once, would not cause such anxiety and expense as
this single one to our impending pilgrimage. It was
not a case of simply providing dresses for one's self or
daughters, but a whole regiment of slaves of both
sexes had to bo equipped with dresses and jewellery
suitable to the wealth of their mistress, not to speak
of a great number of donkeys that the occasion would
require. Artists and workmen were over head and
ears in work; and jewellers, who never keep any
stock, but make everything to order, had conse-

AN OFFERING AT THE SPUING TSCHEMSOHEM. 205

quently most to do, besides superintending the
polishing up of the gold and silver ornamented
harnesses and the weapons of the slaves. A pilgrim-
age of this sort is always something of a pageantry —
all the riding gear must look beautifully new and
resplendent ; no expense is spared, and many an
article of jewellery is paid tenfold its value on
account of the great demand.

As early as half-past five on the appointed day, I
rode to my sister's house to join her there; the crowd
was so great that I despaired ever getting there at
all. At last the signal was given to start, and we
had a long and brisk ride in the pleasant morning
breeze to the spring.

The spot, at other times so lonely and deserted,
had been changed for this day into the most wonder-
ful fairy palace. For days the grand preparations
had been going on. The long grass was cut, carpets
spread under the big trees, mirrors nailed to their
trunks, and every possible comfort provided ; a sump-
tuous meal had been prepared the day before.

Breakfast was taken soon after our arrival in the
shade of the magnificent trees. The picture of this
scene deeply impressed itself upon my memory ; the
gorgeously-attired people, with their costly jewels,
gracefully reclining in front of the merrily bubbling
spring, and surrounded by the romantic rich vegeta-
tion of a tropical wood ; truly it was a picture that no
painter's fancy even could devise — indeed, like the
enthralling descriptions of " The Arabian Nights."

Two hours later we prepared to make the offering,
the object of our excursion. The spirit of the spring

206 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

was to rejoice this day in the blood of a beautiful,
choice bull, and in smaller tributes, such as sweet-
meats and immense numbers of fresh eggs, dashed to
pieces on the water's edge. Two flags were likewise
dedicated — a red one, our insignia, and a white one —
as a peace-offering.

Our camping place was only a short distance from
the spring, and the whole company rose to assist at
the ceremony. One of my sister's chamber-women
advanced close to the water's edge to make a little
speech. She spoke of the severe illness of her mistress,
and how the vow had been made in the last ex-
tremity. She thanked the kind spirit for its assist-
ance in restoring her mistress to health, who had
now come in person to present the promised thank-
offering.

The bull was brought forward and killed; the
blood was carefully collected and sprinkled over the
spring from all sides. Musk and ambergris were thrown
upon burning charcoal in silver incense pans. The
ceremony concluded with some prayers, which were
said standing.

Besides the blood of the immolated animal the
invisible spirit received the heart, liver, and a few
other parts, which were strewed all round, cut up in
small pieces. The remainder ought to have been
distributed amongst the poor, for neither the person
making the offering, nor any of her relations, are
by custom allowed to partake of it. As the spring
Tschemschem is, however, too far removed from town,
and as there were no poor people to be found in its
immediate neighbourhood, an understanding with the

AN OFFERING AT THE SPRING TSCHEMBCHEM. 207

spirit had been come to when the vow was made,
that, to overcome this difficulty, the immolated beast
was to be eaten on the spot, and thus it formed part
of our afternoon's repast.

When the company all sat round again to rest, one
or the other of our party might be seen to disappear
quietly for a while, but no notice was taken thereof,
for we knew that the secret visit had been paid to the
miraculous spring, and to the discreet and powerful
spirit were confided many griefs and afflictions,
physical and mental troubles, or, may be, the burden
of an unrequited love ; but for all of them its in-
tercession was craved.

The hours up to four o'clock passed away in feast-
ing, walking about, playing, resting, and praying.
The horses and donkeys were then brought back to be
saddled. It generally took above an hour before
we were quite ready to start, as one of the bad habits
of negroes consists in forgetting the most necessary
things at the last moment.

On our return we stayed at Mnasimodja, or at
Ngambo, for prayers, and after dusk we all re-entered
the town to accompany my sister home. The mag-
nificence and splendour of this feast formed the main
topic of our conversation for many weeks after.

CHAPTER XXIV.

DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT* POSSESSED PEOPLE.

People in the East grow up without paying any par-
ticular attention to their hody or their health ; rarely,
and then only in cases of severe sickness, nature is
aided a little, hut the remedies used for this purpose
are, as a rule, more than useless.

The detestable practice of cupping plays a great
part, and only the very smallest children are spared
this torment. Letting blood is considered the uni-
versal remedy for all kinds of ailings — it is made use
of alike in attacks of cholera and small-pox, or in
any other case of suffering. It is also employed as a
preventive remedy, for people in perfectly good health
have themselves cupped once a year at least, as was
the custom in Europe formerly.

In the upper ranks bleeding takes the place of cup-
ping, but no particular precaution is ever observed in
this practice. I once had a great fright in one of the
dark passages atBet il Mtoni, seeing one of my sisters
being carried past quite motionless, and looking as if
she were dead. My screams alarmed the whole house,
and I would not be calm till they told me that she was
not dead, as I had feared, but that she had only fainted

DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 209

after having been bled too profusely. She recovered
very slofrly from the critical state into which the
careless treatment had thrown her.

I am not competent to judge whether such profuse
issues are, from time to time, beneficial to the health
in a hot climate ; I fancy, however, that the manner
in which they are practised must be extremely
dangerous.

The kneading of limbs and joints produces a very
pleasant effect. I have spoken of this as being done
regularly every morning and evening, and of the
great proficiency our slaves had acquired in it. In
cases of ordinary indisposition, especially indigestion,
it is much practised.

Emetics, prepared of the most nauseous herbs, are
frequently taken. It is sometimes next to impossible
to swallow these concoctions, the mere smell of which
is sufficient to produce the desired effect.

In cases of severe illness the aid of God is alone
invoked, and to this end sentences from the Euran
are considered the best cure. These passages are
written by a person, generally admitted as devout, on
a white plate, with a solution of saffron. This writing
is dissolved with water (generally with rosewater), and
the whole mixture must be swallowed by the invalid,
like a dose of medicine, thrice a day, morning, noon,
and night; but to do any good, not the smallest
particle of this sacred liquid must be spilt. I myself
had to take this remedy once for some time during a
violent attack of fever.

In exceptional cases, and if the sick person was a
special favourite of our father, a real medical man,

210 MEMOIRS 07 AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

or a sorcerer, was admitted to the bedside. My sister
Chole once suffered severely from pains in the ear,
which would not get better, in spite of all the
quackeries employed. At last it was thought advisable
to call in- a Persian doctor (hakim), very famous at
the time. I was quite a child then, and was per-
mitted to stay in the room while he was consulted.
Chole was wrapped up so completely in a schele that
nothing of her whole body was visible but the ear.
My father stood on the right, and my brother Chalid
on the left of the couch on which she was seated, and
my other brothers formed a circle round her, all of
them fully armed. The doctor was conducted into
the sick room by a number of eunuchs, while others
were placed as guards at different parts of the house,
to give the female residents the signal to retire on the
approach of the Persian. The hakim, of course, was
not allowed to speak to the sick, but his inquiries had
to be addressed to my father or to my brothers, who
also replied.

When I was down with typhoid fever, at a later
period, and had been raving for some days, my aunt
Asche, my father's sister, resolved at last to call in a
European doctor, as none of our Arab or Suahely
remedies would answer. My father's death having
made me personally independent, the ceremonial just
described was no longer needed. The doctor, who was
well acquainted with Arab customs, insisted upon
being allowed to feel my pulse, which demand was
granted by my aunt after long consideration. A
number of eunuchs had, however, been put in requi-
sition, and I was completely covered by my schele,

DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT* 211

although quite unconscious of what was going on
around me, and was only told afterwards by my aunt.
But when the doctor required to see my tongue,
Djohar, the chief of the eunuchs, aghast with horror,
flatly refused this unheard-of demand, so that the
doctor withdrew quite furious, without having pre-
scribed anything.

Such panacea are, of course, only made use of in
countries where the deepest ignorance prevails of the
human frame, as well as of its functions, and the
ailments to which it is subjected. The Arab is per-
fectly ignorant of all these, and quite unable to dis-
tinguish one case of sickness from another. He
divides all inner complaints into two classes — pains in
the stomach and pains in the head. No matter which
be the internal organs affected, the disease goes always
by the same name ; and every complaint that affects
the head, up to softening of the brain and sunstroke,
is called headache. But as to the origin of all these,
the Arab remains in utter darkness, and when all the
home cures have been tried and have failed, a eunuch
is perhaps sent to one of the consular doctors to ask
for some medicament. A medical man who can,
however, not see the sick person, and who obtains
only the vaguest information about the disease itself,
labours rather under a disadvantage. Consequently,
the sufferer often gets a wrong medicine, or an innocu-
ous one at the best

No one knows what is meant by observing a certain
diet. A person attacked with cholera, typhus, or
small-pox is allowed to eat whatever he chooses, or
what he can get. Nature is supposed to be proof

212 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

against anything, and with the belief in predestination,
the Muslim does not even guard against the danger of
contagion ; people taken with small-pox, for instance,
are never isolated. Needless to say, that with such
rampant ignorance precautionary measures can
never be effected, and that all attempts to confine
cholera epidemics, or to set a strict watch over the
great caravans of pilgrims, have so far failed.

I wish to say a few words more about some kinds
of diseases. Small-pox, unfortunately, rules perma-
nently in Zanzibar, and kills off many thousands. The
person attacked is rubbed all over with an ointment
of Djiso (curcumac), and placed in the sun ; in some
cases the skin is saturated with cocoanut-milk, which
is preferable to Djiso. The only other means to ease
the invalid consists in removing him from his bed to
a soft mat, or by placing him upon a large plantain
leaf. Internal remedies are not given, and, above all,
care is taken that no water comes near him.

Cases of consumption, especially of a rapid nature,
are frequent, but they are taken no notice of, nor is
any treatment of the disease known. Yet, of all, it
is the most feared ; it is thought to be contagious,
and not unjustly so, as many European physicians
assert. Any one suffering from consumption is almost
an outcast ; nobody likes to occupy the seat just left
by such an one, or touch his hand, much less drink
out of the same cup with a consumptive person. One
of my stepmothers, a young and very beautiful woman,
was very ill with consumption, but to the last she was
able to leave her bed and visit her friends. Though
still quite a child, I could plainly perceive how un-

DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 213

welcome she was to all. I felt very sorry for her, and
used secretly to go and be of some use to her when
she could leave her couch no more : she had only one
little boy, and no daughter to tend her.

Many of my dear relations have succumbed to this
malignant disease, and the majority of them at an
early age. The property left by consumptive people
is treated with the greatest precaution ; their dresses
and bedding are carefully washed in the sea, gold and
silver objects even are put through a process of firing
to guard against contagion.

Hooping cough is as frequent with us as it is in this
country. The children are given large quantities of
" dew- water " to drink, which is collected in the morn-
ing from the giant leaves of the plantain. A remedy,
founded on superstitious belief, is likewise used. A
number of round pieces, of the size of a shilling, are
cut from the dried skin of a kind of pumpkin, called
hawashi, and these pieces are suspended round the
child's neck.

Sores and boils are very common and very painful.
They are covered up with the skin of onion and with
dough.

The simple home remedies are all tried in turns,
but medical aid and treatment — never, in the absence
of which it can hardly be a matter of surprise that
people trust in the miraculous instead, and address
themselves for help to fortune-tellers. These Basarin,
as they are called, are consequently in great request,
and do a thriving business. We generally consulted,
in cases of sickness, an old, one-eyed woman from
Hadramot, who was a " Schihrie*" Hat \aa.^aSassc^&-

214 HEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

ments consisted in a dirty bag, containing a variety
t of things, such as small shells, sea-pebbles, bleached
bones, quantities of broken bits of glass and china,
rusty old nails, bent copper and silver coins, and so
forth. When she was wanted to answer a question,
she prayed first for aid from above for a revelation of
the truth, after which, she opened her bag, mixed its
contents well, and then emptied them out. Her
answer was always regulated by the position of the
articles she had thrown out of her bag, and then she
stated whether the sick person would get better or
not, &c. Chance appeared to favour this Basara a
great deal more than any of the other fortune-tellers ;
frequently her predictions proved true, and she made
a good thing out of it, for in these cases she was re-
warded by large presents, quite out of proportion with
the small preliminary fee.

External hurts are of course cured more easily than
inner diseases. To stop bleeding tinder is generally
used; though broken bones are cases of a more
dangerous nature. I broke a forearm once, falling
downstairs ; my aunt and my brother Bargasch at
once bandaged the broken limb, but unfortunately
they did not understand setting the bone properly, so
I have a somewhat crooked arm in consequence to
this day.

I have not yet touched upon a very important subject
— the devil ! It is well known that in the East nearly
everybody believes in the devil, and that he prefers
taking up his residence with human beings. I do not
remember a single child with us, that had not been
possessed of the devil once, at least. A new-born

• DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 215

child, that is more restless and more inclined to cry
than is usual, must surely be possessed, and the
exorcising of the evil spirit is at once set on foot.
Little onions and bits of garlic are strung like pearls
and suspended from arms and neck. The remedy is a
very simple one, and not quite so foolish as it looks,
for if the poor devil has any olfactory nerves, he could
hardly withstand such an attack upon them.

Grown-up people are also frequently possessed —
men but rarely, but many women, and of the Abys-
sinian women, nearly one-half. Convulsive attacks,
want of appetite, and general apathy, the desire to
remain shut up in dark rooms, and such propensities,
are taken as sure signs. A person, thought to be
possessed, is treated with a tremendous amount of
respect, or rather — fear !

A special examination takes place to find out whether
a person be really possessed. For this ceremony a
party is invited, of which all the guests must be
acknowledged habitations of the evil one. These
pitiable victims form a kind of secret society, in which
they keep their movements quite dark.

The newly attacked woman sits down in a dark room,
wrapped so completely in her schele, that she cannot
be touched by the slightest ray of light. She is then,
in the true sense of the word, smoked out, a vase con-
taining strong incense being held close to her nostrils.
The company round her begin to sing a strange song,
wagging their heads all the time to and fro. Some
Abyssinian concoction, composed of corn and dates,
which tastes rather pleasant, is a beverage necessary
for the occasion. I have been told itatfi^HtaKftfe *rk&^

216 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

bined influences put the victim into a state of second
sight ; she first talks incoherently, until at last she
raves with foam at the mouth. Then is the time that
the spirit has taken possession of her. The company
present enter into conversation with this spirit, and
request to he informed what it wants ; for it must he
understood that the sick are not plagued hy evil spirits
alone — there are also good spirits, that may have
taken a special fancy to a person, wishing to protect
her in life. Sometimes it occurs that two spirits, a
good and a had one, contest for the same person, and
during this exorcism they are sure to manifest them-
selves. It is said that frightful scenes sometimes
ensue on such occasions, which none but the very
bravest can face out.

Frequently an expert woman will drive out an evil
spirit ; with a good one a kind of agreement is made,
allowing it to pay visits to its victim at times, when it
would be well received, on condition that it predicts
what may befall the possessed one, as well as her
relations.

Possessed people are in the habit of drinking the
blood of immolated animals, such as fowls and goats ;
they devour eggs and meat raw. Of course the poor
people who have undergone such an examination
suffer from its effects for many a day afterwards.

In these cases I was also able to observe how fast a
bad example is followed by others. In spite of the
superstitious views of all Mahometans, the Oman
people are far from believing in all the nonsense I
have just described. When they come to Africa, they
look upon everything at first as only fit for negroes,

- I

DISEASES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT. 217

and would wish to return home at once. After a
short stay, however, they are more susceptible and
credulous than all the rest put together.

But enough of this melancholy subject !

In conclusion, I should like to ask if it would not
be more humane to import female physicians into
Zanzibar instead of those horribly demoralizing
spirituous liquors ? Must corruption always precede
civilization? There is a great opening here for
Christian charity, that would bear fruit hundredfold,
without any great obstacles in the way. For my part
I am perfectly willing, in case a society undertake to
send out a qualified person, to instruct the same in
Arabic and Suahely ; this is the least service I can d6
my dear native home. But it must be' a female
physician ; she will be able to do more good in the
East than ten medical men combined. A kind woman
with pleasing manners would be received with open
arms by all Eastern ladies. She would not only find
herself well rewarded, but soon acknowledge herself
that she is doing a good and charitable deed.

CHAPTEE XXV.

SLAVERY,

This chapter treats of one of the most conflicting
subjects of the day. I am perfectly aware that I
shall not make any friends by the opinions I hold,
but nevertheless consider it my duty to state them
frankly. I have met everywhere with a great deal
of ignorance in regard to this question, and even
those people who are more intimately acquainted
with it frequently overlook the fact that it is not
called into existence solely and purely by the humane
efforts on the part of Europeans, but that political
interests are often a secret incentive.

I was still a child at the expiration of the term
after which, as convened between my father and
Great Britain, the slaves of all British subjects
in Zanzibar, the Hindoos and Banyans, were to be
set free. These were hard times for the owners, who
complained bitterly ; many of the upper classes sent
their wives and daughters to entreat our intercession,
which, of course, was utterly outside our power. Some
of them had a hundred or more slaves on their
estates ; all these received their liberty on one day,
which caused the ruin of their owners. The latter
could procure no men to work their plantations, and

8LAVERY. 219

consequently they could get no revenues from them ;
besides which, our beautiful island had the ques-
tionable good fortune of suddenly finding itself saddled
with a few thousand idlers, vagabonds, and thieves.
These great children thus set free enjoyed their liberty
as a release from their bondage, and its inflicted duties,
but what was their physical condition in life on waking
from their short dream of happiness ? They found
themselves for the first time in their lives thrown
upon their own resources, homeless, and utterly
without means of maintenance. The apostles of the
anti-slavery unions, after fighting hysterically for the
liberty and rights of citizenship for the slave classes,
disappeared" on having gained their print, making
no more provision for their protegfo than if they had
been lilies of the field, except in so far — and probably
to complete the grim farce — that their ladies at home
sent woollen socks for the lilies on the burning soil
of Africa. Everybody who has lived in the United
States, Brazil, or any country where there are negroes,
will corroborate the fact that, apart from many good
qualities, the black race cannot be induced to work,
but only forced.

As I said, only British subjects were henceforth for-
bidden to keep slaves. The English could not inter-
fere with the laws and customs of our country, and
slavery exists to this day in Zanzibar as well as in
all Mahometan States of the East. One must, how-
ever, be careful not to judge slavery in the East by
the same standard that is applied to slavery in the
United States or in the Brazils. The slave of a
Muslim is in quite a different and far superior position.

220 ' MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. -

The worst features of this institution are the slave
trade and the transport of these poor people from the
interior of the continent to the coast. Great numbers
perish of fatigue and of hunger and thirst, but all this
is shared also by their leader. It is absurd to suppose
that the slave traders cause these great hardships
and privations on purpose; their own advantage
requires to bring out the people in the best possible
condition, as they have often invested their whole
fortune in such an enterprize.

Once arrived, the slaves are for the most part well
cared for. They have of course to work for their
masters without wages, but they have no care them-
selves, and their welfare is always studiously looked
after. Is every non-Christian of necessity a creature
without a heart ?

The negro, above all, is fond of his case — works only
when he is compelled to, and then requires the
strictest control even for the little work he is required
to do in our parts. Neither are they an easy family
to rear and keep, for there are a great many thieves,
drunkards, deserters, and incendiaries among them.
What is to be done with these ? To overlook their
sins would be to encourage them in their practice.
Imprisonment they would not resent, but on the con-
trary, court it, and revel in their cool retreat, eating,
dririking, and dreaming their time away.

Under these circumstances there is only one ex-
pedient — corporal punishment. A great outcry is
raised about this in Europe, especially by those who
are more richly possessed of well-sounding theories
than of practical knowledge and insight.

SLAVERY. 221

Cruelty and despotism is justly condemned every-
where, may its victim be a poor negro or a civilized
person languishing in a Siberian mine. But all
things must be fairly considered, nor is every in-
stitution alike justifiable or applicable. With Eastern
nations slavery is a very ancient institution. I
doubt if it could ever be completely abolished, and
in any case it is folly to attempt sweeping away old'
customs in a bluster of enthusiasm. Every good
thing must take its time, and be confronted with good
examples. There are a good many Europeans in the
East who keep slaves themselves, and who buy them
if they find it in their interest to do so. Such things
are, of course, not reported home, or they are excused
on the plea that they have been done " in the in-
terests of science." Science must serve as a pretence
to many an evil. The morality, however, remains
the same, whether the Arab puts his slaves to field
or domestic work, or whether they be employed as
carriers and porters by Europeans, the latter being
much harder and more trying work. Nor are these
European slave-keepers always humane enough to
set the slaves they have bought free when they require
them no longer, as the Arabs often do ; they simply
resell them. The Mahometan population of Zanzibar
were greatly incensed on one occasion against an
Englishman who, before returning to Europe, secretly
sold his woman-slave to an Arab official.

With one or two more such cases of inconsistency
on the part of Europeans that I could quote it is not
surprising if Arabs look on their civilized visitors
with an eye of suspicion, and wish back those happy

222 MEMOIRS OF AN ABABIAK PRINCESS.

times when they had nothing to fear from their sub-
verting ideas. They have taken it into their heads that
the object of suppressing slavery was solely to work
the slow ruin of theimation, and ultimately of their God.

If people really think that slavery can be abolished
by degrees, and that other important changes can be
effected beyond that, then the greatest caution will
be necessary, and slow advancement step by step.
The negroes must first be trained to think and* to
work, and their masters must be taught in an intuitive
manner, and in a form admitting of no doubt as to
its disinterested motives, that by employing good
agricultural implements and machinery they could
easily do without those hundreds of slaves which are^
now required to cultivate their lands. The Arab must "
be brought to understand that there is no intention
to ruin him, and that he is to be treated and weighed
in the same balance as the negro.

In my opinion it would have been more judicious
to adopt the slow and sure course, than ostentatiously
to build a church on the slave market, for which there
was no need, as two existed already, one Catholic and
the other Protestant, and both with very meagre con-
gregations. That this must have been offensive to
Eastern people will easily be understood by those
who know a little about things there. The Arab, like
all Eastern races, is conservative by nature, and
adheres with great tenacity to his traditions. He
must not be hurried into innovations which appear
to him impossible and incomprehensible. His objec-
tions are peremptorily put down to Mahometan fana-
ticism and religious intolerance. But the following

SLAVERY. 223

may show that this intolerance is by no means so
great as it is described. When I revisited Zanzi-
bar after a nineteen years' absence all came to
meet me with the greatest friendliness — the people
even left the mosques to welcome me and to wish me
all blessings ; and if my countrymen had really been
the religious fanatics they are reported to be, I, as a
renegade, would have deserved and roused their in-
dignation much more than a born Christian. It is
therefore not intolerance which governs them, but a
sense of self-preservation, increased and intensified
by the fact that their most vital interests and rights
are encroached upon by reckless, high-handed inno-
vators, and often by utterly worthless, inefficient re-
presentatives of civilization and Christianity.

The negro, however, is at present still very indif-
ferent to religious matters, and certainly such is the
case in Zanzibar with the greater part of the black
race. Many become Christians merely from selfish
motives. An English missionary who has worked for
many years at Membase (Mombas, a little island to
the north of Zanzibar) complained to me once that
the number of his converts had always risen and
fallen with the duration of the supplies he received
from England. Hence I regret that, before fami-
liarizing the negro with higher doctrines, his religious
sense must first be awakened and nursed with an
untiring care ! For this reason many of those brave
men may have failed after risking their strength,
their health, and their lives even in the attempt to
deepen the shallow level of the negro soul, and then
to lift his race into culture and Chri&tv&\u&3 «

' 224 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

The objection might be raised against me that I
am not a fair judge on the slave question ; that,
having grown up with Eastern views, I am unable
now to release myself from them or weigh the matter
calmly. In vindication of which I here produce as
momentous evidence the views of some ultra-Euro-
peans on this subject.

The African traveller, P. Beichard, wrote in 1831
from Gonda :

" In the night of the 12th of October, I was aroused
by the shrieks of a woman who asked for admit-
tance. I sent Askart to discover the reason of this
noise, and was told she wanted to get into my place,
having quarrelled with her husband, and smashed
some object of value, that she might, by the custom
of the country, become our slave. Three similar cases
happened to a native Arab within a short time, who,
however, obtained compensation, and it is by no
means an uncommon occurrence for a free man, dis-
satisfied with his position, again to become a slave in
this way. This is a clear and distinct proof of the
exaggeration and one-sidedness of many of the reports
on -slavery, which depict their condition in dark,
and I might say, non-existing, colours. . . .

" The position of a slave once settled down, is by no
means worse, at least as good, and frequently much
better, than in his own country. The tribes south of the
Tanganika, for instance, are governed by very cruel
sultans, and slaves coming from that place to this
would on no account go back again.

" The slave of the Arab is not at all overburdened

\ '

r BLAVERY. 225

with work, and criminals alone are condemned to cor-
poral punishment ; greater severity than that which
exists would necessitate many more overseers, and
an enormous additional expense. Moreover, the
slaves of Arabs are generally set free after having »
served faithfully ten to fifteen years.

" Slaves owned by natives are considered as mem-
bers of the family, and enjoy their own free will.
They are not punished even when they show their
masters open defiance — as, for instance, going down
to the sea-shore and hiring themselves out as
pagasi (porters)."

An Englishman, Mr. Joseph Thompson, says in his-
book, " Expedition to the Lakes of Central Africa " :

"All classes of society showa cheerfulness and happi-
ness, which would appear uncommon everywhere, but
this is an ideal land, where four shillings and sixpence
suffice all day to live in plenty. Half-starved or ill-
treated slaves are nowhere to be seen ; for as soon as
any cases of barbarous treatment come to the know-
ledge of the sultan (of Zanzibar) the sufferers are at
once set free, and protected against the cruelty of their
masters. It would seem, indeed, as if this class here
is in a particularly comfortable position, and enjoys
ten times more liberty than thousands of our clerks
and shop girls."

Another Englishman, who had lived long in the
East, and who knew the state of things there well,
once expressed himself to me in a shorter w^\s^x^

226 . MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

drastic term ; he simply called the anti- slavery
movement, with its countless meetings, " bosh."

In conclusion, I should like to call attention to one
more fact. Gordon, who at one time was one of the
greatest adversaries to slavery and the slave trade,
began his second short government of the Soudan by
abolishing his former laws. He may not have been
convinced of the necessity of slavery in Africa, but
he may have been sensible of the necessity not to
suppress at one stroke an institution so deeply rooted,
but to gradually mitigate its effects before abolishing
it completely.

CHAPTER XXVI.

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE BEVOLtTTIOH.

Since my father's death I had lived with my mother
and Chole at Bet il Tani, happy in their friendship
and love, for about three years, when suddenly a fear-
ful cholera epidemic spread over the town and the
whole island, and snatched away many people in our
house. It was during the hottest season, and finding
it impossible to get any rest in bed, I had one night
got a soft mat spread out on the floor to lie down
upon, but was not a little shocked, upon waking in the
morning, to find my dearly beloved mother writhing
with pain at my feet. To my anxious questions she
replied that she had been there half the night already,
and that feeling herself attacked by cholera, she
wished to die near me at least, if it was so decreed.
I was well-nigh distracted at seeing my dear mother
suffer from the malignant disease without being able^
to help her. For two days longer she withstood its
attacks, then she was taken from me for ever.

My grief was boundless, and without heeding the
warnings of my friends, who were afraid I might
catch the disease, I clung frantically to the dear body.
My only desire was to leave this "world to^$&&Kt ^^

228 MEMOIRS OP AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

my mother, but God willed that I should be spared,
and to His will I at last found strength to resign
myself.

I was now barely fifteen years old, an orphan, a
ship without a rudder tossing in the sea. My mother's
prudence and good sense had always guided me, and
now I was all of a sudden to take upon myself the
(duties of a grown-up person, and the responsibilities,
not only of myself, but also of the welfare of my
servants. When I came to a clear understanding of
my position, God helped me to do my duty and* to
manage my affairs without the assistance of others.
Nevertheless, trials did come, and I succumbed to
them, for, without knowing myself how it had been
brought about, I found myself drawn suddenly into a
conspiracy against my noble brother Madjid !

It was just as if my father's death had been the
signal for general discord amongst us, instead of
uniting us more, as it ought to have done. It certainly
may be difficult to maintain perfect concord and
unanimity amongst thirty-six brothers and sisters,
and thus we divided into groups of threes and fours,
according as affection drew us together. Our position
was quite incomprehensible to strangers, and even our
friends became, quite against their wills, involved in
our feuds. A loyal friend of my brother's, or a truo
friend of my sister's, must needs become my most
bitter enemy — unless these belonged to my special
circle — whatever their personal feelings toward myself
might be. Such utter disunion could of course only
end in disaster. Still, with hot passion we pursued
each other blindly, and hated without a cause.

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 229

We/ soon ceased to have any personal intercourse
with our belongings, but instead kept numerous spies,
who took care to widen the gulf by informing us
secretly of every word said, and every project made by
our adversaries. These worthy persons always made
their appearance at night to receive .their reward,
which varied according to the gravity of the news they
had to report. Gold coins had never slipped so fast
through our fingers before; frequently we did not
even count them, but took a handful of gold from
our kis (pocket) in acknowledgment of some daring
and successful deed. Sometimes we were roused at
night by a muffled person demanding to be admitted
by the gate-keeper — and such nightly visits not only
lightened our purses considerably, but often kept us
from going to sleep again if the messenger had com-
municated some particularly perturbing news. Indeed,-
we seemed to be, one and all of us, labouring under
some sudden attack of madness, and no pains were
spared when we could annoy or thwart an antago-
nist. If one seemed inclined to buy a fine horse, a
house, or an estate, his opponents promptly out- bid
him four and six times beyond the value, to the great .
satisfaction of the owners. If one sister appeared
with a new article of jewellery, the jeweller was sure
to receive orders from all sides for one just like it,
or a still more beautiful one. The people soon found
this out, and merchants and workmen rapidly learnt
how to turn our discord to their advantage.

Madjid and Chole had been on very good terms up
to tbis time, at which I was delighted, for I was very
fond of both; after my mother's dea»tt\ iW$ V*sA

230 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

treated me like a child of their own. But the good
relations between them began gradually to get cooler
on account of my brother Bargasch, and this ended
finally in a complete rupture. I was always strongly
attached to Chole, but in truth I am bound to state
that the fault was hers and not Madjid's. I cannot
here give an account of all the circumstances which
preceded this rupture, only that we were all, as it
were, completely blinded and maddened.

It was a period of great conflict for me. I lived in
one house with Chole ; we took our meals together and
were hardly apart all day. Without any reason, she
commenced to avoid Madjid,and ended by wishing him
every possible evil. At first, I hoped to be able to
remain neutral, and I even ventured to take my
brother's part, whose only guilt was his being sultan
instead of Bargasch. But passion knows no justice,
and Chole continued to nurse her grudge.

I was thus placed for some months between two
fires — I wished to act for the best and could do
nothing — I hesitated to choose between the two per-
sons equally dear to me ; and when I could not longer
put off my decision, I sided with Chole, whom, though
in the wrong, I cherished most, and who by degrees
ruled me completely. Is there anything we can deny
those we fondly love. What avails our faint inner voice
— justice — when love cries aloud ? For their sake we
abandon our views, our principles, our most sacred
convictions — as a tree loses its withered leaves in
autumn, without its sound trunk being able to help it.

Madjid, a thoroughly noble-minded man, possessed
the love of all his people. He was, however, of weak

MY MOTHER'S DEATH* A PALACB REVOLUTION. 231

health, unable to act always for himself, and for this
reason he had to leave a good deal to his ministers.
One of these, Sleman bin Ali, unfortunately had the
knack of making himself indispensable to his master.
He. was a crafty, selfish man, who gradually contrived
to get all the power into his hands, and to reduce the
other ministers to mere ciphers ; he even carried his
presumption so far as to act the master whenever a
favourable opportunity presented itself. And yet with
the dignity he arrogated, he was far from having
attained those years which every Arab holds in respect
and deference, or from possessing sufficient discretion
to disguise his dandyism and libertinism. In his
unbounded ambition, he sued for the hand of one of
my stepmothers, a Circassian named Fatme, who was
old enough to be his mother ; she was foolish enough
to accept him, but lived to regret this bitterly.
Sleman's only object had of course been to get her
large fortune into his hands.

This evil spirit gained a great influence over Madjid,
and in secret he managed to incite all brothers and
sisters one against the other in order to increase his
own power. He succeeded too well in his plots every-
where ; quarrel upon quarrel took place in our family,
many notables were insulted and neglected, and things
grew gradually so bad that the people began to mur-
mur and complain aloud.

Fortunately, there was one brave and honest man
at least among the ministers, who did all he could to
weaken the effects of Sleman's actions, and to redress
them. This man was Mhamed bin Abd Allah il
Sbaksi, a very rich and also a very £emsrcq& «fcx&.

■^^

232 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS..

noble-minded man, who would never have committed

a mean or selfish deed himself. As a matter of course,

* he was by no means on good terms with his colleague.

My brother Bargasch next endeavoured to turn

the discord between the brothers and sisters, and the

discontent of part of the people, to his profit. Madjid
had only one daughter and no son, Bargasch was
therefore the next successor to the throne, and had
generally been regarded as the heir-presumptive since
my father's death. That two elder brothers, Turki
and Mhammed, were still living in Oman, was not
taken into account at all, for Oman was such a long
way off !

.In the East, the heirs-presumptive to a throne are
always in a hurry to possess themselves of it — they
endeavour to forget the fact that others may have a
better title, and speedily overcome all scruples about
justice and honour.

This was the case with Bargasch. He had failed
in usurping the power at my father's death, but had
never abandoned his plans. He began more seriously
to think of carrying them into effect after having
removed with his sister Meje from Bet il Mtoni to the
town. They resided in a house opposite to the one in
which Chole and myself lived, and which had once
been used as a residence for the cavaliers of the
Princess Schevade of Persia.

Now began a time of great excitement to all of us.
I, as a sister, cannot well recount all that occurred,
although there are certain acts which almost defy
silence. But even the harshness with which he con-
tinues to treat me, cannot induce me to lift the veil, for

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 233

I still remember our Arab saying, that " all the sea
is not deep enough to wash away blood-relationship."

Hardly had the brother and sister taken up their
residence near us, when a great friendship sprang up
between Bargasch and Cbole, and the former soon
began spending his days with us. Meje took this as
a neglect shown to herself, and complaining about it
to others, there came a soreness between the two sisters
that prevented them looking at each other when they
met. Things assumed a more and more uncomfort-
able aspect, till finally peace disappeared entirely from
our houses. I rejoiced at not being concerned in
this new quarrel, but being made the confidant of both
angry sisters, I was soon drawn into it against my
will.

Chole did not act rightly with regard to Meje —
indeed she was not quite herself all this time. Bar-
gasch was her idol, to whom she sacrificed everybody
without hesitation, and I, to whom she was all in all,
followed her lead in everything. Secretly, I felt a
sincere pity for poor Meje, for, in spite of her
pride, I could not help admiring her justice and com-
mon sense. She alone foresaw that no good would
come of this party conspiracy against Madjid, and
she never tired of warning us.

The friendship which my two nieces, Schembua and

Farschu, had for me was soon extended to Bargasch

also. They lived just opposite our bouse, theirs being

only separated by a narrow lane from that of Bargasch,

Our three houses formed thus a dangerous centre for

the conspiracy.

It became now Bargasch's main object to ^.v& w*st
16

294 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

a number of notables and chiefs. The Arabs are
divided into numberless larger -and smaller tribes,
each of which has a chief, who is implicitly obeyed.
It is of moment, therefore, to each prince to be on
good terms, either openly or in secret, with one or
more such chiefs, to make sure of their aid in
case of need. They are, of course, always promised
some prospective post of importance or some other
advantageous remuneration. No tribe will ever desert
its chief, for their attachment is proof against
every temptation. Those who can write never omit
to sign the name of their tribe ; we, for instance,
belong to the " Lebu Saidi," a small but brave tribe,
and I have always to append this in signing my name
in full.

Bargasch gained over several of these chiefs, and
by degrees they formed quite a small court round him,
which caused a good deal of stir in the island; and
by and by it transpired that the majority of his sup-
porters were people of bad repute, men known to be
turbulent and reckless, from whom he ought to have
kept aloof altogether, but who were about his person
night and day. And no wonder either — for what
upright, honest man could have joined his conspiracy.

As the number of these bad and doubtful characters
who gathered round him increased, and as soon as we
clearly realized the true bent of his plans, all fliose
withdrew from him who had more the interests of our
family at heart than his wild projects. Their places
were, however, soon filled again by a class of men
that seem ever ready to grow out of the ground with
the noble and self-imposed task of fighting the cause

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 285

of the oppressed — whilst at the same time dealing a
blow at a long-cherished personal grievance. Dozens
of these malcontents considered themselves already
his future ministers or the happy possessors of other
high appointments, or of fortunes that could in no
otherwise have fallen to their lot, except by a baneful
violation of the laws of merit. Characters of this
sort arrived from all parts to join the conspirators,
apparently with the desire to serve Bargasch, in
reality to serve themselves. The most desperate were
not only received, but hailed with joy !

After having gathered together a sufficiently large
number of such partizans, the details of the projected
rising were more minutely considered. The plan con-
ceived was to seize Madjid unawares and to proclaim
Bargasch Sultan. Preparations for open fight had to
be made, meetings were held upon meetings, always
presided over by Bargasch himself, to gain over one
or the other chief. TJaey always took place at night,
sometimes towards morning, when the moon had gone
down. A state of feverish excitement and deep mis-
trust towards everybody had taken hold of us all ; we
were always in fear of being observed or espied, and
frequently did domestic duties ourselves, only to keep
our servants out of earshot of our dark designs, and
visiting was long since at an end.

Bargasch became more excited every day. Hitherto
he had regularly attended, like the other princes, all
the audiences presided over by Madjid ; now, however,
he began to neglect them, and to appear only once
a week, until he finally remained away altogether.
This with us is considered a sign of @ra& 4kfcRsscfc*ss&»>

236 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

and a subject keeping ostentatiously aloof lays himself
tfpen to punishment. There could be no longer any
doubt now about his hostile projects, which many
would not give credit to previously. His quick temper
' made him behave very imprudently, for he roused the
suspicion of his adversaries, and in consequence the
attempt at a sudden surprisal had to be abandoned.
(In secret Madjid endeavoured once more to show
me the error of my ways before it was too late. v As
he could not come to Bet il Tani himself under the
circumstances, and as I had not been to his house for
a long time, he sent one of my most favourite step-
mothers to beg me in his name not to take part in
the intrigues of his enemies, or to allow myself to be
seduced by them ; that I could never expect any thanks
in that quarter, but would be sure to repent my
adherence to j;he bad cause. I was also told that in
that case I must take upon myself all the consequences
of my actions, as he would be unable to make any
exception on my behalf or to protect me if a bombard-
ment of the house in our neighbourhood was to take
place afterwards.

My noble brother's warning arrived too late. I had
already plighted my word to Chole and to Bargasch,
and considered it my sacred duty to keep and fulfil
my promise. My stepmother left me in deep sorrow,
weeping bitterly ; she had meant well, and had at a
later date the sad satisfaction of recalling to my
memory the justice of Madjid's prediction. To escape
the risk of being distrusted or called a mother of two
faces* for any supposed double dealing, I thought it best

* A byword given in our country to false women.

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 237

to avoid all farther intercourse with Madjid, and to

devote myself entirely to the cause of the conspiracy.

It would have been easy for Madjid at this time to

have had his badly-advised brother and his adherents

arrested, now that there were so much stronger

■ grounds for suspicion, and to imprison them all in

' some fortress until they had repented them of their

ways. . But it was not in his nature to be severe, and

he could not be brought to take such a measure ; he

still hoped to see his brother turn back, seeing that no

other reason for enmity existed between them, and

V fearing that a premature punishment might sever

them for ever. x Above all, he was desirous to spare us

four women, mixed up in this affair, at all hazards.

Thus for a long time Madjid shut his eyes ; but
when whole crowds of men, muffled in their " Barnus"
besieged the doors of Bargasch's house, the Govern-
ment at last decided to have our houses watched. By
this measure however little was gained, for the
watchers were Bluches, soldiers enlisted in Beluchis-
tan, who were greatly attached to our dynasty and
would rather have run any risk themselves than
compromise any of its members. This the wily
plotters knew perfectly, and made their arrangements
accordingly. We women undertook to carry out the
more dangerous missions ourselves, without regard to
existing custom. No one ventured to molest us, while
others were followed and searched. At times one or "
the other imprudent person was arrested, but this did
no great harm to our proceedings. We were all like so
many busy ants, all working hard for the success of
our enterprise. Our spies informed us thai i3&&

238 MEMOIKS OF AN ABABIAK PRINCESS.

Government had at last decided to put an end to our
doings by either imprisoning all suspicious persons
or evicting them irom the island. When this news
reached us our preparations were not yet completed,
so we redoubled our efforts. Quantities of hard cakes
were got ready and brought at night to Marseilles,
which was to be our head-quarters.

Although I was the youngest female member of the
conspiracy, they made me on account of my ability in
writing, the secretary, and as such had to do all the
correspondence with the chiefs. I was indeed old
enough already to have many pangs of remorse, and
the thought preyed heavily on my mind that the
ammunition and guns I was ordering were intended
to cause the death of many innocent people. But
what could I do now ? Was I to break my word and
forsake my dear sister at the very moment when
danger became imminent? It was, indeed, not
sympathy with the cause that urged me on, but sheer
idolatry for Chole.

Bargasqh, the son of an Abyssinian woman, is a man
of great talent, and he was much superior to us in
intelligence and foresight.. Proud and imperious in
manner, he understood the art of impressing the
masses ; but the fact that of all our large family only
four female members, and one single brother, Abdil
Aziz, who was scarcely twelve years old at the time,
and moreover Chole's fosterchild, sided with him,
proves unmistakably how little he was generally liked.
Since he had caused our father to be buried in secret,
and without the customary ceremonies, he fell into
iinirersal odium — so that when he began to organize

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION, 239

his conspiracy the true estimation in which he was
held by his family came to the surface. I remember
encountering upon one of my rare walks one night
two of my sisters ; they accompanied me to within
five hundred paces of my house and then hurriedly
retreated from fear of approaching th*e neighbourhood
of his dwelling.

We worked on unremittingly in spite of the search-
ing watch set over us, and even the meetings were
continued under real difficulties. Already the day was
fixed for the open rebellion, when suddenly Bargasch's
house was surrounded by several hundred soldiers.
The time had been chosen when he was sure to be
indoors, with strict orders to cut oft all communication
until its occupants surrendered voluntarily. This
change in the aspect of affairs was naturally a great
blow, but we kept up our energies nevertheless.

Of course we expected the same fate to overtake us,
and then indeed our cause would have been lost
altogether. We afterwards learned that the ministers
and the other members of the council had voted for
the blockade of all the dangerous houses, but Madjid
would not give his consent to this in his desire to
spare us women.

A few minutes after the appearance of the soldiers
we six conspirators stood at our windows, two in each
house, to take council over the narrow street as to
what should be done next. We were almost on the
point of breaking down for good, but Bargasch would
not listen to anything like submission.

But a very distressing fact now rose to our minds.
Hardly any of the houses in Zanzibar have ^hob^^

240 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

that people collect their water from public wells.
Bargasch's establishment had been provided, for pre-
caution's sake, with a good^ supply some days before,
but in the hot weather this water could not be used
for drinking; at the best it would only do for washing
and cooking purposes. Provisions were plenty, and
the besieged had a sufficient stock to hold out for
weeks ; but water, the one thing most needed in the
tropics, was wanting. Under such circumstances it
would have been impossible to resist for more than
two days at the utmost. »

While the men were quite helpless, the inventive
genius of a woman found a way out of this dilemma
and saved them from sudden defeat. She proposed
to make a canvas hose and to convey water through
it to Bargasch's house. The canvas was obtained, a
few dozen hands got the hose ready within half an
hour, and at dusk the captives could be refreshed with
a deliciously cool drink. We had, of course, to use
great caution to escape our watch's observation ;
fortunately, guards were placed only at the one door
leading to the seashore — and they perhaps willingly
shut an eye.

Hitherto our partizanship, I mean the women's,
had been of great use ; but now it devolved solely
upon us to carry out the doubtful sequel. It was only
through us that Bargasch from his windows was able
to remain in communication with his party. Several
of the chiefs had been shut up with him, and were
placed in a very unpleasant position. As they could
not move about the house freely while my sister Meje
stayed in it, they had to confine themselves to the

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 251

Many prayed where they stood — in the passages, on the
stairs, in the courtyard, or on the roof, which had
been boarded in by palisades. Their example waSs
soon followed by others, and instead of the general ,
agitation we were soothed by the consciousness that
not men's but the Lord's will is done, and that our
fate is in His hands always. By and by we, one and
all, were bent low with our foreheads on the ground ,. : '""'
in token of humble submission.

All these hundreds of people, who, after getting over
their first terrors, put their faith in the Lord, might
have fled easily. There was nothing to prevent us
seeking a refuge at Bet il Sahel, but not one thought
of doing this.

Unable to face such imminent danger any longer,
Ghole at last persuaded our obstinate brother to give
in and tender his submission. Contrary to all rules
of etiquette, she ran herself to the British Consul to
announce this, and to demand a cessation of hostili-
ties. It may be asked, why she did not go to Madjid
to settle with him direct ? This question was put by
a good many people in Zanzibar. They could not
understand that Chole's and Bargasch's hatred of
Madjid should be so great as to prevent them meeting
on any consideration whatever. It must have been
that they were too much ashamed of themselves ;
that they would rather humble themselves (for it was
a great humiliation in the eyes of every true Arab) in
asking the assistance and the mediation of a foreign
Power. At that time the English did not possess the
supremacy they have at present in East Africa ; they
had as little to do with the inner affairs of Zanzibar

242 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

set aside, and the evening was fixed upon to carry out
the abduction, as the only resource now left.

After dark one night Chole and myseif left our
house, followed by a large and picked retinue, to be
joined by our nieces with theirs, who, as prearranged,
had left their home at the same time, and together we
proceeded to Bargasch's house. Upon arriving at the
door our advanced guard was stopped, but the soldiers
had no idea who was to follow ; we could only succeed
by undaunted courage. " Chole," I said to my sister,
"we will go ourselves to the commanding officer and
tell him who we are — surely they will respect us ! "

This proposal was Jn violation of all custom, but the
situation was too critical to allow of scruples; our
undertaking was altogether out of the common, so we
might as well try and forget troublesome points of
etiquette !

Chole and myself went up to the officers and in
impressive language made a thrilling appeal to their «
manly feelings, which extraordinary and quite un-
precedented proceedings had the effect of making their
eyes stare wildly and their tongues speechless; but /
when at last the meaning of our words began to filter
through to their brains they poured forth such humble
excuses and prayers for pardon, that, conscious as I
was of our guilty purpose, I almost betrayed my
shame. However, pluck once more came to our
rescue, and with countenances on which guileless
innocence of design was depicted we proceeded on our
dangerous way.

We reached our destination, and were allowed to
pay the prisoners a short visit, and having thus

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 243

effected so easy an entrance, we dared hope that our
egress in company with our brother would be attended
with equal success.

We found Bargasch and Meje in a great state of
excitement. They had witnessed the scene with the
guard from above, and had begun to fear that we
should be obliged to turn back after all, and leave
them to their f ate.^ But now Bargasch raised another
difficulty ; he steadfastly declined to disguise himself
in a woman's dress.) For aught we knew our visit
had already been reported and instructions been
applied for. (In his own dress he would never have'
been permitted to quit the house ; strict orders had
been given to shoot down at once every suspicious
person. We felt convinced that no one had dreamt of
our undertaking such an audacious deed, for if so,
other measures would most decidedly have been taken
beforehand. We were literally standing on a volcano,
that might open and swallow us up at any moment.
' Armed to his teeth, Bargasch at last consented to
be wrapped in a Scheie, which only left his eyes free
and Abd il Aziz was disguised in the same way.) We
chose the tallest women of our retinue to walk by the
side of Bargasch, to render his height less conspicuous;
and before starting we each said a silent prayer,
which for all we knew might be our last.

To escape suspicion we moved on in the usual
deliberate gait, while our hearts were throbbing and
well-nigh bursting with suppressed anxiety. Moreover,
we chatted as we went, though we must have made
superhuman efforts to conceal the trembling of our
voices. But now we reached the outpoate^\i<s^— ^\

244 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

rapture — the guard made way respectfully, and let us
pass unmolested with our treasures. I need scarcely
attempt a description of our relief after the horrible
suspense we had endured, the breathless hovering
between life and death when we approached the- lion's
jaws ! That memorable night passed as all earthly
things do — but its memory is ineffaceable.

We had written to inform several chiefs of our
pirpose, and they were to wait for us at a certain
place outside the town with some of their followers.
It was arranged that, unless we were there to keep our
appointment at a given time, they were to consider
our plan as aborted, and in that case they were to
disperse and wait for further news. The meeting
place was a long way off, hidden among trees.

We went through the inhabited part of the town at
our ordinary pace, but once on the outskirts we took
to our heels so as to be in time. We rushed over the
fields like a hunted band, with our delicate feet in
their gold and embroidered slippers, scrambled over
hedges and ditches, on— on. Then our servants,
who were ahead, cried out to us that we were making
straight for a stubble field ; but what cared we, so
long as our obstacles were not human beings ; but
there was no fear of detection, having put our lamps
out on leaving the town. Soon, however, we had to
slacken our pace, for we were getting near the
appointed place, and we women had of course to
observe some amount of reserve. Then slight coughs
were given as signals, and a voice was heard to ask
under its breath : " Is it you, Highness ? " and an
answer being given in the affirmative, a general,

CHAPTER XXVII.

KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU.

A few days later I was hastening at sunrise, mounted
on my little white donkey, to my plantation, Kisimbani.
I intended to stay and take rest here for some time,
until things had become a little more quiet and
peaceable at home. Chole, Meje, and my two nieces
soon followed my example, and retired likewise into
the country.

Since my mother's death I had been but rarely, and
then only for a day or two at a time, to my three
plantations ; and after all that had passed I now
enjoyed the quiet and repose of country life all the
more. My mother had always shown a preference
for Kisimbani, and many things there reminded me
of her, so I revisited all the spots where she had
liked to walk and to rest. I was now going to take
into my own hands the pleasures as well as the great
drawbacks that rise in the path of unmarried Arabian
ladies, our laws of seclusion precluding every possi-
bility of applying for male assistance. Etiquette even
forbids us to speak to those of our officials who are
free men. Orders and accounts can only be given by,

246 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRIHCBSS.

guilty consciences magnified into the tramp of horses
and the clank of arms. Our distorted vision positively
saw the approach of the enemy who had come to
inflict the punishment for our deeds ; and when those
phantom shapes had vanished at last, our poor heads
were once more distracted by fresh sounds proceeding
from a new quarter.

We peeped from our windows and saw the guards
passing quietly up and down outside the house in
which Bargasch had been confined up till a few hours
before. At dawn our servants summoned us to
prayers as usual. Generally Chole and I said our
prayers in separate rooms ; to-day, however, not know-
ing what might be in store for us at any moment, we
met in the same room for this purpose. Our fervent
desire was that Bargasch might be safe at Marseilles
by this time, about five o'clock in the morning.

; But soon enough bad news came in. Already at
seven o'clock, we heard that our enemies had received
full information of all that had passed during the
night. A Bluchi soldier had recognized Bargasch in
spite of his disguise, but out of respect to our departed
father, in whose service he had been for many years, he
deferred giving the alarm, thinking that it was Bar-
gasch's intention to fly the country after getting free,
and seeing no reason for betraying us.

The market people, on reaching the town, reported
having seen many Arabs hurry on to Marseilles, and
a suspicion at once arose that this might be in con-
nection with the conspiracy, though nothing certain
was known. The Bluchi now considered it his duty
to reveal what he knew of the case, and with that

KISIMBANI AND BtJBUBU. 257

I was now able to move and ride about as much as
I liked without fear of confronting poor Hassan bin
Alys at every turn of the road. I spent many happy
hours daily in looking after my domestic animals,
and visiting the old people in their huts, with dainties
from my table for their toothless gums. The little
slave children — who are considered as a sort of
property by their masters — were sent to me every
day to be washed at the well with Eassel (the leaves
of a tree which, dried and powdered, make a lather
like soap), and then fed. They remained in some
part of the courtyard for the remainder of the day
under the care of a trustworthy female slave, until
their parents returned in the afternoon from the
fields to take them home. They were much better
off this way than tied all day to their mothers' backs,
exposed to the heat and glare of the sun.

This free and untrammelled country life was ex-
quisite enjoyment to me, and I rejoiced at having
thus escaped all the troubles of the town. The wives
and daughters of the notables on the adjoining estate
called upon me, so I soon had my house fall of guests
for weeks and months together.

Many strangers also came in to refresh and rest
themselves after a long march, in the room set apart
for men. This is a custom always practised with us,
and the number of these guests was very considerable,
as Eisimbani stood near two much frequented cross
roads.

Two sisters and one nephew had estates adjoining
mine. The last was Fessal, the orphan son of Hilal,
of whom I have already spoken as a very kind, but

248 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Beside himself and little Abd il Aziz, who had shown
the greatest bravery notwithstanding his youth, a
number of notables and many servants had arrived in
groups, who completely filled the lower part of the
house. With their assistance Bargasch yet hoped to
carry out his plans, though he had failed with a far
greater force. We also, in spite of the heavy loss we
had sustained in property, in soldiers, and in slaves,
and though we had sacrificed the friendship of our
other brothers and sisters and relations, we had not
yet come to our senses. In our blindness and obsti-
nacy we would not believe in such a miserable failure.

The news of Bargasch's return spread all over the
town the same night. It was generally believed that
he had come back to surrender to bis brother, and
Madjid himself desired to make his submission easy
for him. Instead of soldiers, he sent his nephew, Sud
bin Hilal, this time with a message to the effect that
he would readily grant his pardon for all that had
occurred, if Bargasch would promise to give up all
rebellious plans for the future. \ Sud, a very gentle
and kindhearted man, should deliver this message
quite alone, in proof of his peaceful intentions.

At first Bargasch would not even allow his nephew,
who was considerably older than himself, to enter his
house, and requested him to deliver his message from
the street ; but Sud positively declined to do this.
After being kept a long time waiting, the gate was
just opened sufficiently to allow him to pass in alone ;
after which he had to climb up the barricaded stairs.
Preparations had everywhere been made to shoot down
any one attempting to enter by force. The staircase

MY MOTHERS DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 249

could be closed at its upper landing by a massive trap-
door, a contrivance which was only to be found in this
house, and which dated from the times of our step-
mother Schesade, and this door was covered with heavy
boxes besides* In this rather humiliating manner
Madjid's ambassador made his entrance; and the
result 6i bis mission was equally painful, for he had
to leave without having succeeded, Bargasch refusing
in the most decided way to yield and to surrender.
(Mad j id had now no alternative left but force. In
conferring with the British Consul, the latter con-
vinced him at last of the necessity of putting a stop
. . to these dangerous tumults, and offered his assistance
to that; endo An English gunboat happened to be
in port, and owing to her small draft of water she was '
considered more suitable to anchor opposite Bargasch's
house, than our own larger men-of-war. The crew
disembarked to blockade the house, and if this step
still took no effect it was resolved to bombard the
palace, and to shoot every soul in it.

I had one morning left my room, which looked out
upon a narrow street, and from which there was no
view of the sea, on my way to Chole to wish her good
morning. I found her in great agitation, walking up
and down her room, wringing her bands. " Oh, s
Salme, dearest, where have you been all this time ? " ■
she exclaimed, plaintively; and, showing me the '
English ship and the disembarked marines, she told
me in broken sentences all that was happening.

On reminding her that it would never have come to

this if she and Bargasch had only yielded in time, I

was again answered with the olfl reproach^ that \
17

250 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

showed too little ardour in their cause. But, in the
name of heaven, I asked, what could I do more ?
Had I not compromised myself as much as they ?
Had I not staked my property without hesitation ?
Had I spared myself personally, whenever I could be
of service to our party? All this appeared to be entirely
forgotten now, when in the face cf my cooled sense
and justice, I could not longer lend any countenance
to this irrational enterprise. But I think I could
have borne the taunt from any one better than from
her I loved with all my being.

The marines now began to fire upon Bargasch's
house, at first with their muskets only. The balls
entered the windows, and one passed close to Bargasch,
and struck the wall behind him. When matters had
become thus serious, he fled with Meje, Abd il Aziz,
and the other occupants of the room, to the back of
the house, to escape the bullets which were now sent
flying about right and left.

(When the first shot was fired, Chole broke into con-
vulsive crying, abusing Madjid, the Government, and
y the English all at one time, for the cruel measures
they were adopting. , The whole household, too, broke
out in panic as the firing increased, for our house
being immediately behind Bargasch's palace, we were
likewise exposed to great danger. Some rushed about
wildly, taking a tender farewell from everybody, and
asking forgiveness where they thought it was needed,
whilst those who were more calm packed up their
jewels ready to carry away in their flight; others
again stood helplessly about, moaning and weeping,
enable to collect their thoughts or come to a decision.

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 251

Many prayed where they stood — in the passages, on the
stairs, in the courtyard, or on the roof, which had
been boarded in by palisades. Their example was,
soon followed by others, and instead of the general
agitation we were soothed by the consciousness that
not men's but the Lord's will is done, and that our
fate is in His hands always. By and by we, one and
all, were bent low with our foreheads on the ground ..
in token of humble submission.

Unable to face such imminent danger any longer,
Ghole at last persuaded our obstinate brother to give
' in and tender his submission. Contrary to all rules
of etiquette, she ran herself to the British Consul to
announce this, and to demand a cessation of hostili-
ties. It may be asked, why she did not go to Mad j id
to settle with him direct ? This question was put by
a good many people in Zanzibar. They could not
understand that Chole's and Bargasch's hatred of
Madjid should be so great as to prevent them meeting
on any consideration whatever. It must have been
that they were too much ashamed of themselves ;
that they would rather humble themselves (for it was
a great humiliation in the eyes of every true Arab) in
asking the assistance and the mediation of a foreign
Power. At that time the English did not possess the
supremacy they have at present in East Africa ; they
had as little to do with the inner affairs of Zaxs*u&*x.

250 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

showed too little ardour in their cause. But, in the
name of heaven, I asked, what could I do more ?
Had I not compromised myself as much as they ?
Had I not staked my property without hesitation ?
Had I spared myself personally, whenever I could be
of service to our party? All this appeared to be entirely
forgotten now, when in the face of my cooled sense
and justice, I could not longer lend any countenance
to this irrational enterprise. But I think I could
have borne the taunt from any one better than from
her I loved with all my being.

(When the first shot was fired, Chole broke into con-
vulsive crying, abusing Madjid, the Government, and
„ the English all at one time, for the cruel measures
they were adopting. \ The whole household, too, broke
out in panic as the firing increased, for our house
being immediately behind Bargasch's palace, we were
likewise exposed to great danger. Some rushed about
wildly, taking a tender farewell from everybody, and
asking forgiveness where they thought it was needed,
whilst those who were more calm packed up their
jewels ready to carry away in their flight; others
again stood helplessly about, moaning and weeping,
enable to collect their thoughts or come to a decision.

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 253

•

dear enough, especially our nieces, whose great wealth,
however, soon recovered the heavy losses. Many of
our best slaves had fallen, and as many more wounded
and invalided, reminding us continually of the mischief
we had been the means of causing, though this was
the smallest punishment we could expect to reap from
the evil seed we had sown. But one great grief was
still in store for us — the affection and regard of our
brothers and sisters, of all our relations, that we had
so wantonly forfeited, were lost to us for ever, and the
sting in our remorse lay in that we felt their coldness
to us to be in every way justified and the only attitude
they could possibly assume.-

Madjid alone did not change from the large-hearted,
magnanimous brother he had always been. He was
repeatedly advised not to let us go without punish-
ment, it being notorious that without our active co-
operation Bargasch must have surrendered long before
the sacrifice of life had been resorted to as the last
means of restoring order. He replied that all this
was quite true, but that nevertheless it went against
his principles to publicly humiliate any woman — a
generosity which we were as far from deserving as he
was from meriting the public opinion that his action
was a sign of weakness on his part.

I cannot say that our life henceforth was a bed of
roses in the town. Kemaining friends we had very
few indeed ; whilst our foes thought fit to watch our
every action. E ven the crafty Banyans so far conformed
to the general odium in which we were held, by keep-
ing aloof from us, but only during the day, for at
dusk their scruples seemed to have vanished^ wxi

252 MEMOIES OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS. _

as the Turks or the Germans. It is only since 1875
— thanks to their slave policy — that their power has
greatly increased, and that circumstances are tending
to the gradual decline and ruin of our people.

Ghole did not find the English Consul at home ;
but as the people from Bargasch's house called out
to the marines: " Aman, Aman" (Peace), they
stopped firing, and an end was put to further ruin.
If the gunboat had been in operation instead of the
marines, there would be in all probability another sove-
reign seated on the throne of Zanzibar to-day, and I
should never have come to Europe. But one thing is
quite certain, that we none of us would have got off
so well if in the place of noble Madjid any other
person had determined our fate.

To prevent the recurrence of such a rebellion, it
was decided to banish Bargasch to British India./This
was done upon the advice of the British Consul ; the
English, perhaps, wished to get him, as the pre-
sumptive successor to Madjid, into their power to
train him for future plans of their own. We met
Bargasch and Meje once more that evening to bid our
departing brothers good-bye, for Abd il Aziz had
declared of his free will to share his brother's exile.
They were ordered to embark the next morning, and
were conveyed to Bombay in a British man-of-war.
Bargasch stayed there for about two years, and then
quietly returned to Zanzibar, succeeding, in 1870,
after Madjid's decease, to the throne he had so eagerly
coveted.

Thus ended our enterprise, which had been com-
menced with such sanguine hopes. It had cost us

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 253

•

256 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

and settled through, the medium of slaves. Very
few great ladies can write themselves, and fewer still
of single ladies have ever received a written account
of any sort from their overseers, such as European
landowners expect from their hailiffs once in the year.
A mistress is generally satisfied if they provide the
necessities of the household, and send in cash as
many thousand dollars after the sale of the crops
as they can. These sums are realized hy the sale of
cloves and cocoanuts ; hut it is thought mean to
sell potatoes, yams, or any other vegetables raised
on the estates ; and the overseer is allowed to dis-
pose on his own account of all the surplus. These
people, who are mostly natives of Oman, soon acquire
sufficient wealth with which they can return to their
country and live and die in peace.

"While I lived in town my overseer, Hassan, used to
come once a week or fortnight from Kisimbani to
hand in his report through my slaves and to ask for
orders ; but now that I purposed staying at Kisimbani
for a time, honest Hassan was very much in my way.
The poor fellow himself was made very uncomfort-
able at having to escape to all sorts of places lest he
might even unintentionally happen to meet us. I
therefore transferred him to another estate which he
also managed, and replaced him by an Abyssinian
slave, called Murdjan (Coral), a superior man for his
station, who could also read and write. He was full
of energy, and well able to manage a few hundred
country slaves. The Abyssinians are very smart
people as a rule, and we purchased them in preference
to negroes.

CHAPTER XXVII.

KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU.

256 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

XISIMBAHI AND BUBUBU. 259

He had just arrived with this dismal news when a
lady friend called, who mentioned to me that a cousin
of hers had a small country seat close to the sea, and
that residing, permanently in town, he had no use for
it, and might possibly be induced to sell or at least
let it to me.

People in Europe are generally under the im-
pression that the whole country is the private pro-
perty of the Sultan and of his family, and that the
subjects are quite defenceless • in protecting their
property against them ; indeed, that we have merely
to take what we covet, without asking the owner's
consent. But jurisdiction is not quite as primitive
as all that with the Arabs, and private property there
can no more be touched than anywhere else. The
difficulties I had to contend with, notwithstanding the
liberal offer I was prepared to make is, I think, a very
good proof of my statement. I much regretted to
learn during my last visit at Zanzibar, that a de-
teriorating change has recently taken place in this
respect, for it appears that the property of the British
Consul was a present made to him by the Sultan, who
had deprived the former owner of it without awarding
any compensation.

On the following morning we rode over to the
estate, which was called Bububu, to have a look at
it. The house was shut up, and it took some time
before we could gain admittance. The grounds looked
as if they had been allowed to take care of themselves
of late; but the house was spacious and well-built.
Outside, in a courtyard, were the kitchens and servants'
lodgings. A little river, reminding me greatly of m^

280 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

I, therefore, with what remaining hope I had of
eventual success, accepted the offer of my kind friends
to draw up the memorial for me, and after a pro-
tracted stay of seven weeks I was at last able to leave
England and to return to my children; but with what a
heavy heart I quitted its shores may be easily imagined !
Zanzibar was already considered at that time a
future British colony, so my memorial was first to be
submitted to the Indian Government. Several months
had passed in nursing my hopes, when they were
suddenly broken in upon one morning by the receipt
of a letter from London, enclosing the copy of. a
document, forwarded to me by the British Govern-
ment through Count Munster, declining to enter upon
any of the terms of my petition that Sir Bartle had
so warmly urged upon me. As a reason for this
refusal was adduced : that, as I had married a
German, and was residing in Germany, my case came
within German jurisdiction. This flimsy prevari-
cation was the more contemptible, as I had asked no
alms of either of the two Governments, but, in the
name of justice, the moral support of both. Sir
Bartle Frere had himself incited the memorial — the
same diplomate who had shortly before annihilated
the object of my mission to London with the bribe of
securing the future of my children ! I had been
given to understand that the memorial was intended
to be a formal compliance on my part with the com-
pact the English Government had entered into with
me, and that the former would now carry out theirs
as I had carried out mine. But oh ! how dearly I
was to pay for my credulity 1

XISIMBAHI AND BUBUBU. 259

On the following morning we rode over to the
estate, which was called Bububu, to have a look at
it. The house was shut up, and it took some time
before we could gain admittance* The grounds looked
as if they had been allowed to take care of themselves
of late; but the house was spacious and well-built.
Outside, in a courtyard, were the kitchens and servants'
lodgings. A little river, reminding me greatly of my

250 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

showed too little ardour in their cause. But, in the
name of heaven, I asked, what could I do more?
Had I not compromised myself as much as they?
Had I not staked my property without hesitation ?
Had I spared myself personally, whenever I could be
of service to our party ? All this appeared to be entirely
forgotten now, when in the face of my cooled sense
and justice, I could not longer lend any countenance
to this irrational enterprise. But I think I could
have borne the taunt from any one better than from
her I loved with all my being.

(When the first shot was fired, Chole broke into con-
vulsive crying, abusing Mad j id, the Government, and
/ the English all at one time, for the cruel measures
they were adopting, j The whole household, too, broke
out in panic as the firing increased, for our house
being immediately behind Bargasch's palace, we were
likewise exposed to great danger. Some rushed about
wildly, taking a tender farewell from everybody, and
asking forgiveness where they thought it was needed,
whilst those who were more calm packed up their
jewels ready to carry away in their flight; others
again stood helplessly about, moaning and weeping,
enable to collect their thoughts or come to a decision.

arr mother's death, a palace revolution. 251

Many prayed where they stood — in the passages, on the
stairs, in the courtyard, or on the roof, which had
been boarded in by palisades. Their example was^
soon followed by others, and instead of the general
agitation we were soothed by the consciousness that
not men's but the Lord's will is done, and that our
fate is in His hands always. By and by we, one and
all, were bent low with our foreheads on the ground ,
in token of humble submission.

Unable to face such imminent danger any longer,
Chole at last persuaded our obstinate brother to give
' in and tender his submission. Contrary to all rules
of etiquette, she ran herself to the British Consul to
announce this, and to demand a cessation of hostili-
ties. It may be asked, why she did not go to Madjid
to settle with him direct ? This question was put by
a good many people in Zanzibar. They could not
understand that Chole's and Bargasch's hatred of
Madjid should be so great as to prevent them meeting
on any consideration whatever. It must have been
that they were too much ashamed of themselves ;
that they would rather humble themselves (for it was
a great humiliation in the eyes of every true Arab) in
asking the assistance and the mediation of a foreign
Power. At that time the English did not possess the
supremacy they have at present in East Africa ; they
had as little to do with the inner affairs of Zsxvi&skc*

252 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Ghole did not find the English Consul at home ;
hut as the people from Bargasch's house called out
to the marines: " Aman, Aman" (Peace), they
stopped firing, and an end was put to further ruin.
If the gunboat had been in operation instead of the
marines, there would be in all probability another sove-
reign seated on the throne of Zanzibar to-day, and I
should never have come to Europe. But one thing is
quite certain, that we none of us would have got off
so well if in the place of noble Madjid any other
person had determined our fate.

To prevent the recurrence of such a rebellion, it
was decided to banish Bargasch to British India./ This
was done upon the advice of the British Consul ; the
English, perhaps, wished to get him, as the pre-
sumptive successor to Madjid, into their power to
train him for future plans of their own. We met
Bargasch and Meje once more that evening to bid our
departing brothers good-bye, for Abd il Aziz had
declared of his free will to share his brother's exile.
They were ordered to embark the next morning, and
were conveyed to Bombay in a British man-of-war.
Bargasch stayed there for about two years, and then
quietly returned to Zanzibar, succeeding, in 1870,
after Madjid's decease, to the throne he had so eagerly
coveted.

Thus ended our enterprise, which had been com-
menced with such sanguine hopes. It had cost us

MY MOTHER'S DEATH. A PALACE REVOLUTION. 253

•

Madjid alone did not change from the large-hearted,
magnanimous brother he had always been. He was
repeatedly advised not to let us gQ without punish-
ment, it being notorious that without our active co-
operation Bargasch must have surrendered long before
the sacrifice of life had been resorted to as the last
means of restoring order. He replied that all this
was quite true, but that nevertheless it went against
his principles to publicly humiliate any woman — a
generosity which we were as far from deserving as he
was from meriting the public opinion that his action
was a sign of weakness on his part.

278 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

nance to the English protectorate, or holding out a
reconciling hand to his sister.

On the other hand — and this was Sir Bartle's posi-
tive proposal — if I would promise not to approach my
brother during his London stay, either personally or
in writing, the British Government would undertake
to secure the future of my children.

I was as sad and disappointed as a person can be,
who, pining for a refreshing drink from a cool spring
after a long and dreary march, finds the longed-for
well closed up by some magic power. I had to choose
between two alternatives : to act either for myself,
and without any help from the British Government —
and this with the certain knowledge, that almost
unsurmountable obstacles would be raised in my way,
which I was too weak to overcome — or to accept the
proffered aid of the Government in the interest of
my children. Mindful of the promise I had given to
my motherly friend, Baroness D., at Dresden, not to
go alone and unprotected to my brother — though I
never doubted that he would respect English law
everywhere, and in England especially, if I were to
confront him suddenly — I finally accepted the proposal
of the British Governments

A proposal, however, so vague, that a friend of
mine could not refrain from inquiring of Sir Bartle
what inducement had actuated the Government to
take so sudden an interest in my affairs ; whereupon
the astute diplomate adduced three reasons : (1) We
do the Sultan a favour therewith ; (2) We keep the
princess quiet for a time, and (3) we deprive the
chancellor, Prince Bismarck, of all pretext of ever

CHAPTER XXVII.

KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU.

256 MEMOIES OF AN AEABIAN PRINCESS.

and settled through, the medium of slaves. Very
few great ladies can write themselves, and fewer still
of single ladies have ever received a written account
of any sort from their overseers, such as European
landowners expect from their bailiffs once in the year.
A mistress is generally satisfied if they provide the
necessities of the household, and send in cash as
many thousand dollars after the sale of the crops
as they can. These sums are realized by the sale of
cloves and cocoanuts ; but it is thought mean to
sell potatoes, yams, or any other vegetables raised
on the estates ; and the overseer is allowed to dis-
pose on his own account of all the surplus. These
people, who are mostly natives of Oman, soon acquire
sufficient wealth with which they can return to their
country and live and die in peace.

KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU. 257

Many strangers also came in to refresh and rest
themselves after a long march, in the room set apart
for men. This is a custom always practised with us,
and the number of these guests was very considerable,
as Kisimbani stood near two much frequented cross
roads.

Two sisters and one nephew had estates adjoining
mine. The last was Fessal, the orphan son of Hilal,
of whom I have already spoken as a very kixvi^Ww

258 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

greatly misjudged man. I was the first to know him
really well ; he attached himself to ine with quite a
childlike confidence, and came over to see me nearly
every day.

I was also in constant communication with the
town. Two sets of messengers started on alternate
mornings and returned with the news in the evening.
I was heartily glad to receive now only visits of a
harmless nature, after the tangled net I had been
drawn into in the capital.

The great excitement which had followed the
miserable failure of the conspiracy had at last given
way to a feeling of greater quiet, but the dissent
between the brothers and sisters continued unabated.
I was, therefore, in no hurry to return or even to pay
a short visit, though I could have easily ridden there
in two hours ; but, instead, my friends came frequently
to see me.

My happiness would have been complete had I not
missed one thing — the sea — which until now I had
had before me all my life. My three plantations
were in the interior of the island, but as I had decided
to live in the country, and did not know at that time
what it was to have an unfulfilled wish, I made up
my mind to purchase a plantation at the seaside. To
my regret this was not an easy matter, as all estates
possessing this advantage were owned by people
who cared more for the situation than for their rental.
The " Dellal " (broker) who had, through my slaves,
received instructions to make inquiries, declared that
he would not rest until he had found such an estate,
but still he failed.

KISIMBANI AND BUBUBU. 259

People in Europe are generally under the im-
pression that the whole country is the private pro-
perty of the Sultan and of his family, and that the
subjects are quite defenceless ■ in protecting their
property against them ; indeed, that we have merely
to take what we covet, without asking the owner's
consent. But jurisdiction is not quite as primitive
as all that with the Arabs, and private property tliere
can no more be touched than anywhere else. The
difficulties I had to contend with, notwithstanding the
liberal offer I was prepared to make is, I think, a very
good proof of my statement. I much regretted to
learn during my last visit at Zanzibar, that a de-
teriorating ehange has recently taken place in this
respect, for it appears that the property of the British
Consul was a present made to him by the Sultan, who
had deprived the former owner of it without awarding
any compensation.

260 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN -PRINCESS.

much-loved Mtoni, ran right through the court, and
this was worth a great deal in itself in a hot clime
like ours. The view from the upper story was per-
fectly charming, large and small palm trees rose on
either hand, and the front was built so close to the
shore, that its walls at times were washed by the
waves.

I decided at once to buy or to rent Bububu, and
sent my friend to her cousin next morning. She
informed that he could not make up his mind to
dispose of it, but that it would give him great pleasure
to offer it me for as long as I cared to reside in it.
This, however, I politely declined, and succeeded at
last in obtaining a lease at a certain annual rental*

About a week after signing the contract— for even
that formality is gone through in Zanzibar — I removed
to Bububu, where I once more delighted in the sight
of the sea that I had known from my earliest youth.
The only thing that saddened me was the parting
from my nephew Fessal ; he took our separation
much to heart, as he had no companion beyond his
old stepmother.

I took all my domestic animals with me; they
seemed not a little surprised at finding themselves
suddenly in a new place, but evidently as satisfied
with the change as myself. For hours together I
would walk about here on the shore, watching the
many ships and fishing boats that glided past on their
way to the city.

I was now much nearer to the latter, and could reach
it both by sea and by land. Almost every day my
three brothers, Abd il Wehab, Handan, and Djemschid,

EISIMBANI AND BUBUBU. 261

came oat to see me, either on horseback or by boat.
Many pleasant days and hours we spent together in
this place, and in their company the time passed
away very agreeably.

I saw much more society here than at Kisimbani.
Not a single day passed without one or two, and fre-
quently as many as ten, ladies coming to stay with
me for some days. I always look back with pleasure
and regret on this beautiful, unclouded period of my
youth.

My stay at Bububu was not, h<5wever, to be of long
duration. I was sweeping the sea one day with my
glass, to see if any of my brothers were coming.
A single boat soon came in sight, in which Abd il
Wehab was alone this time, his looks betraying to
me at once that he was the bearer of unwelcome
news.

" What news do you bring, Abd il Wehab, my
brother ? " I asked, when he entered.

" I have been sent with a request to you to-day,
sister Salme, which is far from pleasing to me/' he
replied. " Only guess from whom." At my pressing
questions, he continued :

" You are aware that a new British Consul has
lately arrived ? "

"What do I care for him? Has he sent you,
perhaps ? "

" No ! "

" Well, then, speak out and tell me all, without
tormenting me any longer ! "

" But won't you be angry with me, Salme ? "

" No, no ; but now out with it quick," I e*fil*.\x&fcA-

262 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

"Well, I am commissioned by — Madjid, who en-
treats you, if you still have any love for him, to give
up Bububu. The new British Consul sent yesterday
to him to inquire if he could have Bububu as his
country seat."

Madjid's request was a great blow to me. Any one
else I should have refused point-blank, but could I
again thwart Madjid, against whose government and
life I had so wickedly conspired ? I had so far made
no attempt at meeting him, although I felt convinced
that he had condoned the past and wiped it from his
memory. Now that he, the injured and offended one,
took the first step himself (this was his meaning, for
otherwise he ipight easily have told the consul that
Bububu was not his to dispose of), I thought I might
repay a small portion of the debt I owed him, by
granting his request ; and I spoke to Abd il Wehab to
this effect.

Madjid had sent me word that if I consented he
would get Abd il Wehab to procure a proper town
residence for me, as he was aware that I did not wish
to return to Bet il Mtoni. But I had not yet made
up my mind where to go, and I asked for time to
consider his proposal.

I was, perhaps, for the first time in my life, really
grieved at anything so material. But I had been so
happy at Bububu, and could have had no desire for
anything better. When Abd il Wehab left me after
dinner, it was with the earnest request not to return
to Kisimbani. Then I took a tearful leave of all my
favourite spots.

I struggled long before making up my mind to

KISIMBANI AND BUfiUBU. 263

return once more into the turmoils of the capital, for
it seemed as if I could not shake off certaiii gloomy
presentiments.

Next morning I wrote to Abd il Wehab that I should
be ready to leave Bububu in a week's time, and would
then place it at Mad j id's disposal, and as I had
decided to return to Kisimbani I made all necessary
arrangements for this purpose. But in the afternoon
my three dear brothers appeared, crying out simulta-
neously : " Salme, we will hear no more of Kisimbani !
If you care for us in the least, you must return to
live ill town ! " And Djemschid jestingly continued :
"If you are going to hide yourself on your plantation,
we shall come at night and set it on fire ! " At the
same time they begged me in their mothers' names
(who were Circassian women all three) to come back
to town. For the last time we all spent the day to-
gether at pleasant Bububu, and then they left me
and rejoiced at having prevailed on me to live in the
town again.

CHAPTER XXVIIL

MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR.

I happened to be, a few days afterwards, one moon-
light night, on the roof of my new town residence,
procured for me by Abd il Wehab, talking to an old
acquaintance, when Selim suddenly appeared to an-
nounce Chole.

" Oh, Salme, I never thought you were so bad as
all that ! " These were the first words she exclaimed
on entering.

" Good evening, Chole ; and what ill have I done
to you ? " I asked, quite taken by surprise, leading
her to the seat of honour, the " Tekje."

"You really pretend you have done nothing to me ?
Is it nothing that you have given up Bububu to oblige
Madjid and the godless Kafer ? " (Englishman).

"But, my dear sister," I replied, a little hurt,
" surely if I don't mind — and, besides, I explained
the matter to you fully in my letter the other day."

" I suppose you wished to insinuate yourself again
into the good graces of the damned ? " (by whom she
meant Madjid).

" No, you are altogether mistaken ; it is no favour
I want of any one, and that you know well enough
vourself."

MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR. 265

Yes, I know that; but why did you grant his
request?" she persisted, getting more and more
excited. " And I understand it is he who induced
you to live here instead of at Bet il Tani."

" No, it was not he who asked me to do so, but
Abd il Wehab, Hamdan, and Djemschid wished me to
live here," I said.

" Well, I see now that you have turned against us,"
she replied, rising and refusing the refreshments
offered to her by the servant. " You may now choose
between myself and Bargasch on the one side, and
the slave of the Englishman on the other ! Good-
bye ! " And without listening to another word she
turned and went.

I have never seen Chole since that day, though I
lived for some years longer in the same town with
her, and it was only after my departure that she re-
lented. I often asked myself in what way I could
have offended her, but could think of no intentional
offence on my part ; my only object in giving up
Bububu had been to relieve my own conscience of
some of its load. And now this absurd reproach that
I had been moved by motives of ultimate gain !
But on the evening when Chole had vented her dis-
pleasure on me I remembered she was very much
excited, and might have said more than she meant.

Up to this time I had seen neither Madjid nor

Chadudj; and in order to avoid giving fresh grounds

for Chole's suspicions, I resolved to keep out of their

way altogether. But it was to be otherwise, for hardly

had I been a fortnight in my new place when Madjid

himself came, followed by a great retinue.
18

266 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS,

" Good morning, Saline," he cried ; " you see I am
the first to come, though I am so much your senior,
to thank you for getting me out of that dilemma with
the Englishman."

" Oh, my brother, that was nothing, really nothing
worth speaking of," I stammered, for no one was
taken more by surprise by this visit than myself.
Nor did Madjid, in his kind and generous way, allude
to aught that had occurred, but tried to put me at
my ease at once by talking of all sorts of other
things.

" You will, I hope, come and see Chadudj one of
these days ? "

" Yes, surely I will come," was the reply I naturally
gave.

" And our aunt Asche, who loves you so dearly,
now lives with us, and she will be so rejoiced to see
you again."

Madjid stayed about an hour, and we parted per-
fectly reconciled. The news of his visit spread all
over the town the same day, and it was of course also
reported to Chole.

Now that Madjid had been the first to come to me,
which I could never have looked for, the only course
left open to me, even if I had remained unforgiving in
my heart, was to return his call and also inquire for
Chadudj and my aunt Asche. I could not then fore-
see how dear this simple act of courtesy was to cost
me afterwards. This step is still considered the
greatest crime on my part. Such excess of jealousy
may appear incomprehensible, yet at the time it was
unfortunately but too well in keeping with the re3t of

MY LAST EESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR. 237

our family affairs, as I found out by and by. Indeed
it bad to be neck or nothing. Friendliness with both
factions of our family was a thing utterly out of the
question.

The two parties existed as before, and the intrigues
continued unabated, only more secretly.

It is the nature of Eastern people to be very candid.
They are unable to dissimulate in the masterly manner
that answers so well here. An Oriental rarely con-
ceals his aversion to a person who has affronted him
by look, word, or deed; he at once betrays his feelings
as a child would. Dissimulation, if such a thing could
be practised with any degree of success by our quick-
tempered Southerners, would be simply put down to
cowardice. They reason thus : " Why should I show
myself otherwise than I am ? Are not all my thoughts
and feelings known to the Lord ? Why then should I
try to dissemble in the face of men or be afraid of
them ? "

The engagement and subsequent marriage of two of
my sisters with two cousins happily caused a little
diversion in our life ; indeed, the continual quarrels
and dissensions in our family were suspended for some
months. As is frequently the case, these sisters
married to two brothers, had drawn a very different
lot. The unhappy one had children and the happy
one had to go without, however much she might long
for them. Our circle was further increased by a good
many of our Oman relations, who had come to our
country on account of the precarious position of our
brothers there, and for a time at least I could once
more taste the pleasures of family life.

268 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

Above all, I shall never forget one of my friends. I
may not mention her name or be more explicit here
as to our relations or separation. All I can take on
myself to state is that this true friend helped me to
the last when I was about to leave my home under
great perils. Being fully acquainted with all my
domestic concerns, she could not fail to perceive what
was going on ; still she remained, until I was com-
pelled to remove her by gentle force till half an hour
before I left. " Highness," she said, in taking leave,
may the Lord of the universe protect you ! I am
aware that I shall have to give up my life within
twelve hours ; but for your sake that is not too much ! "
Her parting words still ring in my ears, and I may
well exclaim : A friend in need is a friend indeed !

If people wish to know what is really understood
by perfect devotion and self-sacrificing friendship,
they must go to the East. I do not mean to say that
such friendship is not elsewhere to be met with ; but
certain it is that where an Arab once loves, his life is
for evermore consecrated to the object of his heart.

Though the distinction of classes is nowhere more
observable than in the East, it is not taken into ac-
count at all in a case of real friendship. A prince
will be on the same friendly terms with the sob of a
poor stable-man, whom he is fond of, as with any of
his more distinguished friends, and without making
the least distinction between them ; and a princess
will treat the wives and daughters of a simple over-
seer as affectionately as the most exalted lady. My
sister Meje, for instance, formed an intimate friendship
with the daughter of an overseer. She invited her to

1
MY LAST RESIDENCE IN ZANZIBAR. 269

her palace, and her attachment to the poor, shy, but
highly-gifted girl remained a very close one until they
were separated by death.

It is no rare occurrence either, that a l&dy of high
rank makes a friend of one of her female slaves, not
a negress of course, but some Abyssinian or Circas-
sian ; which ends in her being bought by her bene-
factress for five or six times her value, if purchase
in her case be possible ; her freedom being secured by
a legal act for all times.

In case of imprisonment a friend will always
spend several hours every day with the prisoner, and
a banished person is everywhere accompanied by, his
friends. In misfortune and poverty the friends assist
the luckless person with their fortune, nor is it ever
required to appeal to the public for contributions on
such occasions. All this is, as it were, instilled into
us from early youth, and is thenceforward regarded as
a matter of course.

CHAPTER XXIX.

GREAT CHANGES.

While all this bitterness prevailed in our family I
was made happy by the affection of a young German,
who lived at Zanzibar as the representative of a Ham-
burg mercantile firm. A good many untrue reports
have been published with regard to these, to me,
important events, and I feel it incumbent on me to
briefly mention them here. During the reign of my
brother Madjid the Europeans enjoyed a very respected
position; they were often and gladly received as guests
at his house and on his estates, and were always
treated with marked attention on such occasions.
My step-sister Chole and myself were on most friendly
terms with all foreigners in Zanzibar, which led to
various courtesies, such as the custom of the country
admitted. The European ladies of Zanzibar for the
most part called only upon Chole and myself.

Soon after my removal from Bububu I made the
acquaintance of my future husband. My house was
next to his ; the flat roof of his house was a little lower
than my own. He held his dinner parties in a
room opposite to where I could watch them ; for
he knew that this display of a European festivity

GREAT CHANGES. 271

must be very interesting to me. Our friendship,
from which in time sprang love, was soon known
in the town, and my brother Madjid also was well
aware of it, but he never showed any displeasure*
much less made me suffer imprisonment on this
account, as the gossips had it.

I was, of course, desirous of leaving my home secretly,
where our union was out of the question. The first
attempt failed, but a more favourable opportunity soon
presented itself. Through the mediation of my friend
Mrs. D., the wife of Dr. D., the British Vice-consul at
the time, I was one night taken on board by Mr. P.,
Commander of the British man-of-war, Highflyer; and
everything having been in waiting and preparation
for me, we started at once and steered to the north.
We reached Aden all safe, where I was received
by a Spanish couple, whom I had known at Zanzibar;
and there I was going to wait till my affianced hus-
band could join me; for he was as yet detained at
Zanzibar in winding up his affairs.

In the meantime I had been instructed in the
Christian religion, and was baptized in the English
Church at Aden with the name of Emily, and married
immediately after according to the English rite.
After our marriage we left for Hamburg, via Marseilles,
where I was received in the kindest manner by the
parents and relations of my husband.

I accustomed myself soon to my strange surround-
ings, and endeavoured to learn all that was necessary
for me. My dear never-to-be-forgotten husband
helped me on in all these stages, with the deepest
interest. Especially fond he was of observing tks*

272 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

first impressions that European life and the customs
of the civilized world made on me. I have retained
a most faithful memory of them, and may speak
of some on a future occasion.

Our quiet, happy, and contented life was only to
last a short while. Little more than three years
after our removal to Hamburg, my dear husband had
the misfortune of falling while jumping from a tram-
car, and was run over. He expired three days later
- after great sufferings, leaving me quite alone in the
world with three children, of which the youngest was
only three months old. For a time I thought of re-
turning to my native home, but fate decreed that two
months after this unspeakable grief my dear brother
Madjid was also to die, he who had always been so
kind to me. He did nothing to harm my fiance after
my departure, but allowed him to settle his affairs at
Zanzibar without hindrance, nor did he ever after
manifest the slightest resentment at my secret flight.
Like a true Moslem he believed in fate and predestina-
tion, and was convinced that it was this that took me
to Germany. He gave me a touching proof of his
brotherly love shortly before he died by despatching
a steamer with a full cargo' of all kinds of things to
Hamburg for presents. The generous donor suddenly
departed this life while the ship was yet on its way.
I have never seen or received any of the goods in-
tended for me, nor had I received any intelligence at
the time of Madjid's generous intention. I only
learned afterwards that his kind purpose was inter-
cepted, and that the appearance of the ship at Ham-
burg at the time was reported to be for the purpose of

GREAT CHANGES. 273

repairs. Nine years later I heard from a friend, who
had been on board the vessel at Gibraltar, and who
had then seen the captain, that the cargo was intended
for me. In spite of every effort to keep their arrival
in port dark, the dusky crew had by some means
found out my dwelling in Hamburg. The poor fellows
were wild with joy at having succeeded, and showed
their attachment in the most touching manner.

Two years more I lived in Hamburg, but never
free from misfortunes. I lost a considerable part of
my property through the fault of others, and learnt
now that the management of my affairs must be
undertaken by myself. The deepest aversion to the
place where I had formerly been so happy now com-
pletely overpowered me — in addition to which my life
among the people of that city was not made as plea-
sant as I could have wished or expected.

I removed to Dresden, where I met with the kindest
advances from all sides. From that place I went to
London, of which I am going to speak in the next
chapter. Wishing to lead a quiet life for a time, I
lived for some years in pretty Eudalstadt, and there
also I made many dear friends, foremost among whom
I must mention with gratitude their Eoyal Highnesses.
I soon recovered my shattered health so far that I
could think of removing to Berlin, for the better ad-
vancement of my children's education. There, also,
my social life was of the happiest. I shall remain
deeply grateful all my life for the interest evinced
for me by the most exalted persons there.

CHAPTER XXX.

8EJID BARGASCH IN LONDON.

I had always kept up a correspondence with my
native country, and had never given up hoping to see
it again, but the obduracy of my brother had ren-
dered any reconciliation hitherto impossible. His
implacability was not, however, on account of my de-
sertion of the faith — it was what he chose to consider a
personal affront to him — viz., my renewed friendship
with his old adversary Madjid ! But I continued to
yearn for all my dear ones at home, and secretly I
never relinquished the hope of being once more recon-
ciled to them.

All at once a report was spread through the press
— in the spring of 1875 — a report that stirred my
whole being, to the effect that my brother Bargasch,
the sovereign of Zanzibar since Madjid's death, was
about to visit London.

I took no steps at first to verify this news, nor did I
betray the uneasiness it caused me. I had experi-
enced too many disappointments in my life to allow
of sanguine hopes, and it required all the power of
persuasion on the part of my friends to decide me to
go to London myself. The Secretary of State, Herr
yon Biilow, held out hopes to me of the diplomatic

SEJIP BARGASCH IN LONDON. 275

aid of the ambassador, Count Minister, which I regret
to say, however, proved of little assistance to me.

The short time previous to my departure I employed
in learning English, so as to render mysqlf a little
less helpless. For nearly eight weeks I was busily
poring from morn till night over my books, learning
English words and reciting dialogues. The thought
of having to leave my three children behind damped
my ardour not a little all the time.

After an exhausting, wearying journey, I arrived at
last in the giant city, where rooms at a hotel had
been prepared for me by some friends of mine, the
only persons I knew in all London, and those but .
slightly. I had. only seen them once, when they paid
us, or rather my dear husband, a short call on their
wedding tour, yet they were ever after kindness and
devotion itself to me.

My brother's arrival was only expected a week
later, and in the intervening time I made myself
acquainted with all that was new and quite strange
to me. Count Miinster, on whom I had called at the
earliest opportunity, kindly promised to assist me
to the best of his ability.

Some few days after my arrival, while sitting in the
drawing-room of my hotel, buried in sad thoughts, the
card of Dr. P., M.P., the brother of a dear friend of
mine, was handed to me. I was a perfect stranger to
him and to his wife, since deceased, but in both I sub-
sequently found two of the most kind-hearted persons,
ever ready to pluck the thorns from under my feet.
They had come to offer me their services, and to
make at the same time the welcome proposal of carr^-

276 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

ing me off to their own home. I dined with them the
same day, and removed on the following to their
house, and as things had thus acquired a more plea-
sant aspect, I took fresh courage, hoping that the end
of my mission would take a favourable turn.

My friends in Germany strongly advised me before
starting to proceed as cautiously as possible, and in
the first instance to try and procure the aid of the
British Government in my behalf. I at last gave way
to their earnest entreaties, though I had at first been
resolved — after having often before realized to my cost
how inexpedient it was of me, a stranger, to negotiate
matters in Europe — to trust to God and myself alone.
Pictures rose up in my mind of vague, empty shufflings,
of diplomatic periphrases, of slight coughs given to
gain a little time before speaking ; these and many
more such signs I was soon to be brought face to face
with. I was to learn that my fate lay in the hands of
those who study and practise, and finally excel in the
art of prevarication.

It was not long after my removal to the residence
of my kind friends, that the visit of Sir Bartle Frere,
afterwards .Governor-General of South Africa — a
gentleman whom I had hitherto only known by name
— was announced to me. If ever I received a proof
of the truth of certain presentiments, it was on this
day, on which the hopes most dear to mo and the
future of my children were buried for ever. A most
unpleasant feeling took possession of me the very
moment I beheld the great diplomate, who governed
my native country as he chose, and who held my
brother Bargasch altogether in his power.

SEJID BABOASOH IN LONDON. 277 '

After an exchange of civilities, Sir Bartle began to
make inquiries about my affairs, and appeared par-
ticularly anxious to learn the reason of my visit to
London. I told him — although he seemed fully in-
formed on these points already — all about my wishes.
There was not much to tell after all, as I had only
the one thought. of being reconciled to my relations.

My surprise may be more easily guessed than
described, when Sir Bartle, after I had done, put the
plain question to me : " What did I consider of greater
value to me — a reconciliation with my relations, or the
securing of my children's future prospects ? " Even
now I am unable -to say what I felt on hearing these
words ; I had been prepared for anything but for this
question. I trust I shall not be accused of inconsis-
tency or of want of courage, if I wavered and hesi-
tated for a moment. What -were my own personal
hppes and wishes when the welfare of my children was
at stake ?

After recovering somewhat from the surprise and
embarrassment into which this unexpected diplomatic
move had thrown me, I requested an explanation as
to the meaning of this question. Sir Bartle then
declared, and in a very decided manner too, that the
British Government was by no means disposed to
mediate between myself and my brother; and that, as
its guest, it would be highly unbecoming to cause him
any annoyance.

It is to this day a matter of grave doubt which
annoyance he would have considered the greater had
he been at all consulted in either matter ; signing the
slave treaty, and therewith giving a formal counta-

278 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

nance to the English protectorate, or holding out a
reconciling hand to his sister.

SEJID BARGASCH IN LONDON. 279

taking up the matter himself. All these reasons
seemed on the surface perfectly plausible and re-
assuring.

In order to avoid even the appearance of a pre-
meditated meeting with my brother, either in such
public buildings to which everybody has access, or
in the park and in the streets, I studied the pro-
gramme of my brother's daily excursions in the
papers ; I even requested my kind hostess not to
take me with her in her drives ; but to this she would
not agree, saying that my health would suffer, and
proposed that we should take quite opposite routes,
and thus we went West when the Sultan had gone East,
and vice versa. Such a precaution was indispensable
as far as I was concerned, for I could not have
trusted myself to remain mistress of my feelings if a
meeting had taken place. On the other hand, there
was but little danger of a recognition on his part— my
own dear mother would not have known me again in
my present attire — much loss any one of my brothers,
who had hardly ever had an opportunity of seeing
me without a mask.

I should have preferred to leave London at once,
where I had seen all my hopes destroyed, and to re-
turn home. But even this I was not allowed to do.
I had to stay many weeks longer far away from my
children, full of anxiety and care. Sir Bartle Frere
had so willed it. Before taking my departure I was
requested to send in a detailed memorial. Not only
was I wholly inexperienced and unversed in this
branch of business, but my sorrows had reduced my
mental energies almost to those of an automaton.

280 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

I, therefore, with what remaining hope I had of
eventual success, accepted the offer of my kind friends
to draw up the memorial for me, and after a pro-
tracted stay of seven weeks I was at last able to leave
England and to return to my children; but with what a
heavy heart I quitted its shores may be easily imagined !
Zanzibar was already considered at that time a
future British colony, so my memorial was first to be
submitted to the Indian Government. Several months
had passed in nursing my hopes, when they were
suddenly broken in upon one morning by the receipt
of a letter from London, enclosing the copy of. a
document, forwarded to me by the British Govern-
ment through Count Munster, declining to enter upon
any of the terms of my petition that Sir Bartle hod
so warmly urged upon me. As a reason for this
refusal was adduced : that, as I had married a.
German, and was residing in Germany, my case came
within German jurisdiction. This flimsy prevari-
cation was the more contemptible, as I had asked no
alms of either of the two Governments, but, in the
name of justice, the moral support of both. Sir
Bartle Frere had himself incited the memorial — the
same diplomate who had shortly before annihilated
the object of my mission to London with the bribe of
securing the future of my children ! I had been
given to understand that the memorial was intended
to be a formal compliance on my part with the com-
pact the English Government had entered into with
me, and that the former would now carry out theirs
as I had carried out mine. But oh ! how dearly I
was to pay for my credulity !

6EJID BABGASCH IN LONDON. 281

My husband had been a German, and I, therefore,
would be regarded as a German subject also. Oh !
now I perceive ! I could lay, of course, no claims to
English chivalry or generosity. And yet why, I ask
myself, had the truth of my nationality never been
realized till my concordance had been extorted ; why
did I receive strict injunctions to conform to the com-
pact as though it had been entered into with an
English woman. I can only explain it thus : that
until my brother had signed the treaty, and so long
as he was within reach of any hints I might feel in-
clined to give him, and be able to give him, from my
better knowledge of European tactics, I was bound
over on my honour, as any ordinary English citizen,
"to keep the peace," and thereby acknowledging my
power, as the Sultan's sister, of possibly " disturbing
it." But no sooner had my brother regained his
shores and I mine, than the last card was played,
and I suddenly became once more a pure German
subject. All this I concluded slowly and painfully, and
learnt subsequently that I had interpreted the whole
course of events rightly, that I was, in a word, the
victim of the "Humane Policy" adopted by Zanzibar.
Let me, however, here distinctly impress my readers
with the fact that though I may trace the source of
all my miseries to the wily machinations of the
Government of England, I feel in my heart not only
gratitude, but the deepest affectionate remembrance
of kindness and sympathy received at the hands of
English society.

CHAPTER XXXL

RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. -

When I wrote the preceding chapter some years ago,
I did certainly not dream of the possibility of ever
seeing the most ardent wish realized that filled my
thoughts and my very being. The eventful years
that had elapsed since I had last seen my dear home,
had been fraught with many storms and hardships.
I had meanwhile passed through the most wonderful
changes of life — I had outlived the most cruel trials.
Thanks to my good constitution, I was able to brave
all the rugged duties that devolve upon the dwellers
of the North, but only for the first few years. As
they went on I was made aware of my decreasing
powers of resistance.

About two years ago, I said one evening to my
two daughters : " Children, I cannot help thinking —
and have been pursued by the thought for some time
• — that this would be a favourable moment for re-
turning to Zanzibar." I then explained my views
more fully. One of them reminded me of the evil
star that had frustrated so many of our dearest hopes,
and then drew a sad picture of the renewed anguish
and disappointment this enterprise might have in

RE- VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 283

store for us. The other one, however, replied eagerly :
"No, mamma, nothing must be left untried. You
might reproach yourself afterwards with the thought
that you had missed the right moment." And she
thought as I did.

I took the necessary steps confidently, and was met
in high official quarters with a kind encouragement,
but the matter did not progress for a long time
After several disappointments, and when I had
already given up all hope of ever satisfying my
longing for home, I one day received a summons
from the foreign office to hold myself in readiness to
depart for Zanzibar shortly. The surprise caused by
this news was so overwhelming as almost to deprive
me for a time of all power of realizing my good
fortune. Next to God I felt most thankful to the
Government, and to our beloved emperor, for whom
I as well as my children will always preserve the
deepest gratitude.

I need not dwell on the preliminaries of our de-
parture — they were those usually accompanying a
long voyage. And as for the political features of
the expedition, they were sufficiently explained by the
daily papers at the time.

On the 12th of July, 1885, I was to be at Port
Said. On the 1st of that month I left Berlin with
my children, and went via Breslau and Vienna to
Trieste, where we arrived on the 3rd. My children
were charmed with all the beauty they saw. As for
myself, I could not well help being more keen on the
issue than on the incidents of our journey. The
peace and quiet I had not known for to&\» \A<sqks&.

284 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

again on board the Lloyd steamer Venus after we had
put out to sea, and here I tasted the first sweet
enjoyments that offered on all sides. The weather
was so beautiful that we could remain on deck nearly
all day long.

On the 5th we touched at Corfu, visited the most
beautiful spots in the island by a few hours drive,
and rejoined our steamer in the afternoon, highly
pleased with what we had seen. Past barren Ithaca
on the south point of Greece, and lofty Candia, our
vessel brought us, on the 8th, to Alexandria. A
hushed and almost holy feeling of home overcame
me as I entered this city with palm-trees and minarets,
a feeling that can only be experienced but not
described, and which only those understand who
have, under similar circumstances, been long absent
from their home. Of the real South I had seen
nothing for nineteen years, and my winters had been
passed in Germany by the fireside. Busily as I had
always been engaged with the duties of house-
keeping, my thoughts had ever wandered far away.
To me the greatest pleasure and recreation had been
to sit down quietly and alone with a book all about
the South. Now that I was actually face to face
again with Eastern life in the bustling port of
Alexandria, I stood as one in a dream — afraid of
waking to the fact that I had only been steeped into
it by the perusal of some well-told, life-like de-
scription.

We were requested at the custom-house to show
our passports, but I had decided to give my name only
in case of absolute necessity, and I therefore asked

RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 285

my travelling companion if I might use one of her
own cards, and, curiously enough, this was considered
quite satisfactory, and we passed on. After this we
had positively to fight our way, with the help of
constables, through the clamouring crowd offering their
various services ; and finally, having reached a cab, we
got in and asked to be driven to the hotel. But even
here one of our persecutors managed to fasten him-
self on again, warning us, with much agitation, against
proceeding any further without his assistance as
interpreter, when, to his utter astonishment, I told
him in Arabic that we were perfectly able to take
care of ourselves.

Tlie two days we spent in our expensive and dirty
hotel passed quickly enough. I was most delighted
with a visit to the Arab quarter, where I remained
for hours watching the ever-varying scenes of its
animated life. After being eyed rather suspiciously
at first I began to talk to them in Arabic to their
intense astonishment. " Mother * " they cried on all
sides, " where didst thou learn to speak our language
so beautifully ? Surely thou must have been to
Bagdad; how long didst thou live there ?" ,

Mhammed, our Arab cabdriver, soon took such a
fancy to us, that he beseeched me to take him with
me as my servant. He assured me he would serve us
faithfully all his life, and never touch a single bottle
of our wine. He was quite downcast when he came
next morning to drive us to the port, and I scarcely
knew how to console the poor fellow.

Our short stay at Alexandria had been a most

* " Mother " is a friendly term of &ddra*&.

286 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

happy one. After a passage of eighteen hours we
arrived at Port Said, where we went on board the
Adler, one of the tugs of the East African squadron.
Port Said is only a small harbour town, but every-
thing is to be obtained there, and the shops contain
everything one can possibly wish for.

Here the desert begins, through which runs the
"canal" that connects the Mediterranean and the
Bed Sea. The channel is so narrow that two ships
cannot pass each other ; crossing stations have
been established at various points, and their names
put up, as " Gare Limite Sud," or " Gare Limite
Nord." Ships have to wait here sometimes for
hours, until a vessel coming the other way has passed
the station. At Port Said or at Suez a channel-
pilot is taken on board every steamer, who under-
stmds the meaning of the ball-signals, indicating
by their number and position whether you may go on,
or how many ships are expected to pass by. No ship
is allowed to go through the channel under full
steam, to prevent the undulation damaging the
sandy banks; at night all traffic is stopped. Not-
withstanding these several hindrances, the passage
is quite an interesting one — especially when some of
the ships race through the large salt lake to reach
the canal first.

Near Suez the channel widens, and we entered the
Red Sea at last under "full steam. " The heat,
which had been great before, became almost un-
bearable when we entered this branch of the sea
enclosed by high rocky walls. We could not keep a dry
thread on us night or day. I felt more at ease in

RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 287

this, to me, familiar heat, than I had felt all the long
years I had been away ; but my children were quite
prostrated with it. The port holes could not be
opened, as the sea was running very high ; and the air
became so oppressive below that we preferred sleeping
on deck at night on chairs instead of retiring to our
cabins.

Seven days it took us to get to Aden, and in that
port we had to remain five days before the Adler
received orders at last to proceed on the voyage ; and
then who more rejoiced than myself ? I was to see
my home again at last in eight days more.

We had not suffered from a rough sea as far as
Aden, but hardly had we got clear of that rocky port,
when that fearful south-west monsoon began to blow.
We were now in those dangerous regions, where
H.M.S. Augusta had gone down some weeks before.
One morning at eight we were just having breakfast
on deck with the officers, when the first tremendous
sea came over and speedily dispersed all the company.
And now began three awful days and nights ! We
were in the midst of an appalling hurricane. The
foam of the waves broke over the funnels, which, after
the storm was over, stood there perfectly white with
the brine. I must despair of giving an adequate
description of our dangerous situation ; and our bodily
sufferings and discomforts, too, were very great. The
pitching and rolling the first day made us, of course,
very ill, but our miseries even increased. Our cabins
were swamped, so that we could not get into them.
Indeed, in the face of our great danger, we did not
think of undressing for three nights tikk&cl%. ^^

4
".J

288 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PB IN CESS.

all bad to sit in the gentlemen's saloon under um-
brellas, for although the ports and skylights were
tightly screwed down, and the latter covered with
tarpaulins — the state of our atmosphere may be better
imagined than described — the water oozed through
the decks. Toilet was dispensed with, for we had no
dry changes to replace the sopping garments we were
wearing.

After three days, at last the storm abated a little,
but though the sea still came over at times, we could at
least stay on deck, on a raised seat, under an awning.

My anxiety had naturally been very great at first,
but I soon became quite calm and composed, remem-
bering that we are at all times in God's hands, and
filled with gratitude that I had my three children
with me.

The island of Pemba came in sight on the 2nd of
August. The distance thence to Zanzibar is only
thirty miles, which can easily be travelled over in
three hours. As it grew dark we made for the north-
cape of Zanzibar, it being dangerous to enter the
port at night on account of the many sandbanks.

It was a curious coincidence that I was to see my
native home again in the same month in which I had
left it nineteen years before, and exactly on the same
day and at the same hour I had lost my husband
fifteen years ago. I need scarcely speak of my heart's
anguish on that day. Earlier than usual I retired to
my berth, but never closed an eye all night. My
whole soul shaped itself into a prayer, and God, in His
mercy, heard it, and gave me comfort once more.

Our ship drifted slowly during the night towards

RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 289

the, lighthouse, and when I came on deck early in the
morning the palm-trees of my native home greeted me
from afar. At sight of them I again broke down. I
went back to my cabin and prayed. The conflict of
my feelings was only an echo of the many conflicts
my life had known. What indeed are we poor human
beings but frail skiffs tossed on the ocean of life. I
had left my nativo home an Arab and a true Ma-
hometan ; I returned an undeserving Christian, and
half a German.

But at this moment it was given me to live all my
youth over again. Everything stood vividly before
me, and the merry pictures of the past rose one by
one, and filled me with exultant joy. Even my happy,
light-hearted children seemed silent and thoughtful
in this hour. They clung to me all that day, and
through their glistening eyes I could read the sym-
pathy that their full hearts could not speak. Though
my life has been robbed of some of its dearest pos-
sessions, God, in His mercy, has made me rich in
giving me my loving children.

On nearing the town we learned, to our regret, that
the German squadron had not yet arrived. As the
Adler was to be of its number, there was nothing for
us to do but to steam back to the east coast of the
island, and wait about. In this manner we passed
eleven days. On the 11th of August at last the man
on the bridge called out, " Ship in sight ! " which,
however, did not raise great hopes in us, as we thought
it might be a passenger steamer. But very soon we
saw the vessel make straight for us, so we got up
steam, and hoisted our flag. The vessel turned out

290 MEMOIBS OF AN ARABIAN PBINCE6S.

to be the tender EhrenfeU, "which had been in search
of us all the morning, to bring ns the commodore's
order to come into port, the squadron having already
arrived there four days ago. We made for the port
at once, but could not run in that night

Next morning at six o'clock we were all astir. Far
off in the distance we saw the forest of masts in port ;
steaming close in shore we passed many fine palm-
groves and small negro villages. Come to an anchor
at last, we found four German men-of-war present,
H.M. ships Stosch, Gneisenau, Elisabeth, and Prince
Adalbert, two English men-of-war, five steamers of the
Sultan, and several sailing ships.

Commodore Faschen thought it advisable to treat
me at first as " secret cargo," a name which caused
much merriment to all the officers of the squadron.
However, on the arrival of Admiral Knorr in H.M.S.
Bismarck, matters were soon smoothed for me. I
was free to go on shore when I liked. Apart from the
feelings that moved me at seeing my home again, it
struck me as very strange that I should be able to
walk about those streets in broad day, accompanied by
gentlemen, where I had formerly only been permitted
to pass at night, veiled. It may be thought that,
after nineteen years of European life, I might have
got over this, but Zanzibar brought it back to me
with far greater force than Egypt, where I had been
twice since, and did not realize my emancipation
nearly so much.

I fancied I could see the most undisguised surprise
in the faces of all the people who crowded round tis
when I visited the town for the first time. They

RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 291

pressed round me on all sides, calling out to me in
Arabic and Suahely, " How do you do, my mistress ? "
Large numbers collected in the narrow streets before
the shops we had gone into, but made room respect-
fully when we emerged again. Our escort increased
day by day, and the welcome on the part of the
inhabitants grew daily more cordial and more
affectionate. All this, of course, did not a little annoy
the Sultan and his counsellor, the British Consul-
General; the former even thought fit to have a number
of the persons whipped, who had followed us. He, as
well as the Consul-General, made a complaint to the
commander of the squadron about this friendly
demonstration in my favour. When I heard of this I
thought it best to tell the people not to accompany me
anymore, but they replied that no fear of punishment
should prevent them from showing their joy at
seeing me again.

Frequently slaves came up to me cautiously, to
bring me their master's compliments. I was Pegged
not to have any doubt of their attachment and fidelity;
they placed their houses at my disposal, and expressed
their earnest desire to pay me visits on board. These
slaves also brought me letters secretly, which, in the
absence of pockets, they had concealed in their tiny
caps. In passing the houses I often saw a troop of
ladies retire behind a door when they saw me in the
distance, and on my approach they would either
address me or merely call down a blessing — such as :
"God be with you and keep you in good health." My
brothers and sisters, my relations and old friends,
asked me frequently to come and see them* but 1

292 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

always declined their kindly invitations, not from any
lurking resentment of former days, far from it, for
my heart yearned for my own flesh and blood ; but
circumstances compelled me to act as I did.

Whenever we passed the palace in boats, or walked
under the windows of the harem, we could see the
wives of the Sultan waving their hands to us in a
friendly manner. As I was accompanied on these
excursions by several naval officers, I had to request
these gentlemen, in the interest of the women, not to
salute in return, not wishing to be the ruin of these
imprudent fair ones. I avoided doing so myself, for I
had been told that their lord and master was in the
habit of concealing himself in some place from which
he could easily watch and find out all that passed on
the sea and in the streets unknown to them, and then
follow up his discoveries with cruel punishments.
This is not conjecture, but a fact well known ; even to
the Europeans in Zanzibar that happened scarcely a
year ago. The Sultan from his hidden post had seen
a Portuguese, gliding past on the water, bow to his
favourite, a beautiful Circassian, and also saw her
return the greeting ; a custom she was by no means
alone, or the first in observing, for thirty years ago,
when I was quite a child, the English and French
naval officers, who visited our island, and the foreign
residents, always bowed to us, and we as invariably
returned their courteous salutation; our gentlemen
had never objected to it, and no one saw any harm in
it. Bargasch, however, was of a different opinion ;
he whipped his Circassian for the crime she had
committed, with his own hands, and in so cruel q

EE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 293

manner that she expired some days afterwards in
consequence. He is said to have entreated, vainly
however, her pardon on her death-bed, and even now
has prayers said over her grave.

On our excursions into the interior we often
encountered people mounted on donkeys. To show
us their respect they always dismounted, led their
beasts past, and then only remounted. Nor could
any punishment inflicted by the Sultan make the
inhabitants desist in showing their attachment, and
it must have vexed him to hear the crowd crying
beneath his palace windows: "Kuaheri Bibi ! Kuaheri
Bibi ! " (Farewell, Mistress ! ) every time we got into
our boat to return on board. I was told that when-
ever we neared the shore somebody would beat an old
biscuit-tin like a drum to summon the people together.

Of course we were well set round with spies, mostly
Hindoos, but to their great disgust we only conversed
in German. Even on the night preceding our depar-
ture two of my friends (who had come on board to bid
me good-bye under the shelter of darkness) called my
attention to the dusky figure of a man, who had often
honoured our ship with his presence in the guise of a
hawker, and who in truth was a very active and clever
tool employed by the now influential but former lamp-
cleaner and court-barber, Madoldji Pera Daudji.

This Pera Daudji, a very wily and cunning Hindoo,
has become the Sultan's jack-of-all-trades. The lamp-
cleaner of old now devotes his services to the sovereign
of Zanzibar in the highest and lowest positions. All
diplomatic negotiations pass through his hands, but
the same hands wait upon the guests of the Saltan

294 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

table. His salary, thirty dollars a month, every one
will admit to be a low one, but I was told that he
made it worth any one's while to increase it. This
omnipotent Pera Daudji is not above bartering his
influence. Of course, his thirty dollars, that do not
even suffice to payfor his costly dresses, are replenished
from other sources of revenue. The court jeweller,
who refused to give a certain percentage on all orders
to the ex-lamp-cleaner, lost his custom in consequence.
Pera Daudji honoured and entrusted a more accom-
modating competitor with the execution of such
orders.

My birthday happened to fall in this time, and
now I celebrated the same for the first time in
my native country, where it is not customary so
do so. The officers of the squadron did all they
could to make this day a real festive one to me,
and they succeeded well. I can hardly thank them
sufficiently for all their kindness. One very remark-
able thing happened on this occasion. In honour of
my birthday (a born Mahometan's !) a pig was killed
on board the Adler, and almost in sight of Islam's
most faithful worshippers. If this had been predicted
to me nineteen years ago by the cleverest of our
fortune-tellers, I should have scorned the idea, in
spite of all superstition.

Viewed from the sea, the town of Zanzibar made
upon me quite as favourable an impression as it had
done of old. Perhaps it looked even more pleasant
now, many new houses have been built, the lighthouse
in front of the palace, lighted by electricity, looks
really quite fine. By the officers it was always called

RE- VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 295

the Sultan's Christmas-tree, on account of its many
rows of lamps. I was much less pleased with the
appearance 61 the inner town.
• During my long residence in Europe I may perhaps
have become more fastidious than Oriental practice
will allow of; I thought the inner town in a sad con-
dition of untidiness. Nearly every house in the
narrow and dirty streets was a heap of ruins. Weeds
grew everywhere, and even big trees flourished amidst
these ruins. No one seemed to care; people in the
most natural manner were picking their way over
ash-heaps and waterpools. The introduction of a
good Board of Works does not seem to be quite so
easy, otherwise this state of affairs would have been
remedied by the Sultan long since, who has had
sufficient opportunity during his stay at Bombay, as
well as in England and France, to become acquainted
with clean streets. But he has deemed it necessary
to introduce the manufacture of ice, also electric light,
a so-called railway and, I know not what else in
Zanzibar, not to mention French cooks and French
gastronomy.

The evident decay of the heart of the town struck
me painfully indeed. I had not then an idea of the
condition in which I was to see my old Bet il Mtoni
again, or Bet il Bas, that was only just finished when
I left. I was deeply moved when we went to revisit
the house in which I was born. What a sight ! In
place of a palace there was nothing but a fast decay-
ing ruin ; one of the staircases had altogether
disappeared, the other was choked with weeds, and so
tottering that it could not be ascended without \>eriL

296 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

More than half of the house was a ruhbish heap,
just left as it had tumbled down; the baths, once
such a favourite place of resort, and always filled
with a merry throng, had lost their roofs; ruiiis
again indicating the place where some of them had
been. There I stood, gazing with burning eyes at the
neglect and desolation around with the recollection of
former and happier days filling my heart with a pain-
ful mockery of all things earthly and human.

My companions little knew what anguish was
mine — they laughed or chatted, or played on those
heaps. Had I suspected what was awaiting me in the
old house of my birth, I should have paid it a pre-
liminary visit by myself. The figures of former
residents seemed to me to be hovering around and
gliding from under the dangerously-leaning roofs, the
half-hanging doors and falling beams. More and
more vividly did their faces and shapes grow upon
me. I was moving in their midst, and could hear
their own familiar voices. How long this delusion
lasted I know not, but I was suddenly roused into the
actual present again by the kind officers and my
children coming to draw me away from the scenes
that affected me so deeply.

It is commonly thought, but without reason, that
the Arabs, in token of their love and respect to their
dead, allow the houses formerly inhabited by them
to fall into ruins. This is incorrect — it is not this
sentiment, but their innate indolence that makes them
look with indifference on decay. Arab houses are but
seldom repaired or renovated — their lime and brioks
are of a nature to be easily decomposed by the climate

RE- VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 297

— so that when a iTouse gets rather too much out of
repair, a new one is built instead, and the old one is
left to crumble away. The value of building ground
is merely a nominal one.

My nephew, Ali ben Sund, the son of Zuene, had
lived, up to his death, in one part of the house,
which still contained a few comparatively well-
preserved rooms. His attachment to the old ancestral
seat of our family was so great that he could never
live anywhere else, and so he died in this place two
years ago.

In this wing we found two Arab soldiers, who had
come from Oman but a few months previously. They
had left their families at home, hoping to take back
to them some of their earnings from the wealthy
Zanzibar ; but so far they had fared very badly, and
were yearning to get back to Mesket as soon as they
possibly could. Both complained of bodily afflictions,
and begged me to cure them ; one of them had sore
eyes, and the other some internal disease.

When I inquired, somewhat surprised, why they
lived in the ruins, I was told that they were not
alone, but only formed part of the guard, which,
incredible as it may appear, were set to watch over
the ruins. This, I should think, could hardly have
been a military measure, but probably one connected
with the dread of the evil one. I may, however, be
mistaken in this, as I have for too long a period lost
sight of this kind of superstition and its adherents.

As a memento I took with me some grasses, a few

leaves, and a stone I found in the niche where my

dear father used to say his prayers.
20

298 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCES 8.

On leaving the house a well-dressed, rather dis-
tinguished-looking Arab came up to us, introducing
himself as the commanding officer of the guard. He
remained some time with us, and finally escorted us
to our boat. On approaching the Mtoni we ob-
served a venerable old man standing in it, engaged
in ablutions previous to saying his prayers ; and
when we came nearer we saw that he was stone-
blind. Since my arrival at Zanzibar I had made it
a point never to be the first in addressing any one, so
as to get them into no trouble ; but in this case, and
with a blind man, I thought I might make an excep-
tion, so I went up to him, and wished him good
evening in Arabic, not without some misgiving for
disturbing him at his devotien, and I, a Christian too,
was not calculated to draw forth a pleasant acknow-
ledgment, especially as he could hear that we were
a European party. I was not a little surprised how-
ever when he stretched forth both his hands, drew
mine to his lips, and pressed them for a while to his
face. I was really touched, and wished to remove
the doubt of being mistaken for some other person.
" But do you know who I am ? " I asked. " Indeed,
I do know you," he replied, " are you not my mistress
Salme, whom I have often carried about as a child ?
Oh, we were so rejoiced when we heard you had come
back. God help and protect you, you who are so dear
to us all ! " Such and other words like these the
poor helpless blind man addressed to us on parting.
The Arab officer, who had been a witness to this
proof of faithful attachment, told me the old man
acted as the Muedden (Muezzin) to the colony of Bet

RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 299

il Mtoni, and was ai the same time appointed by the
Sultan to say prayers over the tomb of Abd il Sund,
whom the latter had so bitterly persecuted all his
life.

The last remark struck me particularly, for I was
quite well aware of the heartless and yet childish
conduct of Bargasch to Ali ben Sund, and to my
elder sister Eaje. Baje, a real sister of Ali's mother,
removed to Zanzibar from Mesket at a pretty ad-
vanced age some years ago, and was provided by the
Sultan with a house and an annuity. It was but
natural that his aunt Baje went to nurse him, when
Ali ben Sund, who, without any cause whatever, had
incurred the bitter hatred of Bargasch, was lying
mortally ill at Bet il Mtoni, having no wife or
children to look after him. But Bargasch disapproved
of the step she had taken — he was perfectly unable to
understand or to appreciate any service of charity, or
to show compassion. To make her feel his'wrath, he
not only withdrew her annuity, but actually, without
any compensation, deprived his aged sister, who was
old enough to be his mother, of her home. He did
not appear at Ali's burial, a disregard hardly ever
shown even to an enemy. And now he has prayers
said over his grave! What unaccountable conduct !

As I am just talking about the head of our family
in Zanzibar, I am tempted to lift the veil from
another part of his life's history. I might feel a great
reluctance to make known to the world the wickedness
of people of my own blood — in spite of the many years
I have been alienated from them, and notwithstanding
the heartlessness and harshness shown to me by the

300 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

same Bargasch, in whose interest I have risked and -
imperilled my life and my fortune, for we cannot, do
what we may, wipe out a certain compassion for the
flesh of our flesh — were it not that Bargasch's howels
of mercy are closed alike against subject and relation.

It is a fact well-known in Zanzibar that Bargasch,
on coming to the throne in 1870, suddenly, and
without any cause, cast our second youngest brother
Chalife into prison. The poor fellow there languished
upwards of three years heavily chained, with irons on
his legs. An explanation hereof could only be
guessed — Bargasch probably feared that Chalife,
being next in succession, might behave to him in the
same dastardly and treacherous manner as he had
done himself to Mad j id.

His conscience, however, suddenly smote him.
When one of his sisters, whom he had likewise
injured, was about to set out on a pilgrimage to
Mecca, and dreading the efficacy of a curse pro-
nounced in the holy city of the Prophet, he went to
her to beg forgiveness. But his sister positively
refused it until he had set Chalife free again.

In spite of this, he continued to have Chalife and
his friends continually watched, and soon found out
that the latter had a very faithful and wealthy friend.
He well remembered the time when it had been a
matter of great importance to himself to be allied to
rich chiefs ; nevertheless, he determined to deprive
the successor to the throne, at any cost, of such
valuable adhesion and assistance.

He sent for Chalife's friend, and thus briefly
announced: "I understand you intend to sell your

RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN TEARS. 801

plantations ; tell me the price you want for them, as
I should like to buy them." " That must be a mis-
take," the man replied, " I never had the least inten-
tion to sell my property." " It will be to your own
advantage, however, if you do sell them to me," he
was answered. " Now go and consider the matter."

Some time after, the unfortunate man was again
summoned before the Sultan, and received with the
following words : " Tell me, now, what is the price
for your plantations?" "I have never thought of
selling any of them, your Highness." "It is quite
indifferent to me what you think. I shall give you
50,000 dollars for them. Here is a cheque for the
amount; go and make yourself paid."

The poor fellow departed perfectly heartbroken from
the presence of the man who in this manner acts as
the "father of his people." But even here the
mortification did not stop. When about to cash his
cheque, he was informed that the whole amount was
payable only within twenty years, in annual instal-
ments of 2,500 dollars, the first of which was at his
command now. The poor man was completely ruined,
just what the Sultan wanted.

Another occurrence makes me blush with shame,
and fills me with the deepest pity. One of my sisters
had been most vilely calumniated — she was said to
love some one whom Bargasch objected to as brother-
in-law. When he heard of this report he went to her
himself, and taxed her with it. In vain she protested
her innocence and utter ignorance of the whole
matte/ — the conscientious brother carried duty so far
as to personally administer fifty lashes to \^\a> <swv

802 MEMOIRS OF AH ARABIAN PRINCESS.

sister ! In consequence of this brutal treatment the
poor girl was ill in bed for more than a month, and
suffered from the effects long after. I have no doubt
that he will have prayers said over her grave after her
death as he does over those of his wife and of Ali
ben Sund.

Europeans may frequently be heard to praise the
engaging manners of the sovereign of Zanzibar.
From the above it may easily be judged how much
of this praise is deserved. One thing, however, is
certain, that from the bottom of his heart Bargasch
has never hated anything so much as the mere name
of Europeans.

It may be presumed that I did not expect much
from him as to my private claims. The press made
a gratuitous statement that I had returned to Europe
in full possession of my inheritance, consisting of the
proceeds from the sale of no less than twenty-eight
houses. This is absolutely untrue; I have not re-
ceived a penny, and my claims — admitted as just
ones even by the British Consul-General, and that is
saying a great deal — remain unsettled to this day.
My generous brother offered to pay me the large sum
of 6,000 rupees in full settlement of all my claims,
which kind offer I declined with thanks, this sum
being only the merest fraction of what I am entitled
to. Five of my brothers, five sisters, my aunt Asche,
three nephews, one niece, and a very rich stepmother
of mine, have died since he has held the reins of
government ; and I am entitled to part of the inheri*
tance from all these. The Sultan waived, under some
futile pretext, our reconciliation urged by the German

BE-VISITING MY HOME AFTEB NINETEEN YEARS. 803

Government; and no doubt his delight was great
when their interest in my cause, was finally sub-
merged by political ones.

Everything was tried from official quarters to set
the people against me. Some of our officers had asked
me to select for them some articles of jewellery they
wished to take home to their friends. To get these
we went several times to a jeweller, who worked also
for the Sultan, without our being aware of it.

The Sultan no sooner heard of our purchases from
his faithful Pera Daudji, who had to report all news
to him, than he sent for the jeweller, upon whom he
poured out the full measure of wrath and abuse for
daring to sell us his wares. But the tradesman, gene-
rally so pliant, quietly replied he could not presume
to turn his master's sister out of his shop. This
answer displeased the Sultan still more, so he
threatened to withdraw his custom altogether. But
the jeweller, with great composure, announced the
fact that he had for some time contemplated taking
his departure from Zanzibar, and that he would
embrace this opportunity for shutting up his shop,
and thereby avoid giving me offence.

In the same way an attempt to annoy me was made
by prohibiting the owners of donkeys to let out their
beasts to me, while some of my former slaves, who
had ventured to pay me a visit, were imprisoned.

Such and other absurd measures were taken, but
had just the opposite effect. The people gave their
opinion of such proceedings in words like these: "Pija
kana kasi ja watoto, Bibi ! " (He just behaves like
a little child, Mistress !)

304 MEMOIRS OF AN ARABIAN PRINCESS.

When I arrived at Zanzibar I was doubtful of the
reception I should meet with there, but confident, too,
that my brother would not delay in carrying out the
expressed wishes of Germany, and I was not mistaken.
He would, at all events, out of respect for Germany,
tolerate me. But the bad treatment that my other
brothers and sisters had experienced at his hands
could hardly lead me to expect any friendly advances
on his part ; and, as for the rest of the inhabitants, it
gives me the greatest pleasure to state that they gave
me tokens of their kindly feelings only, Arabs,
Hindoos, Banyans, and natives repeatedly entreated
me to remain in Zanzibar for good, which could only
strengthen my belief that there was no religious aver-
sion felt for me. One day I met two Arabs, with
whom I entered into conversation. Hearing from a
third person that they were relations of mine — I had
not recognized them — I told them afterwards I should
not have addressed them had I been aware of this, as
I knew my relations were not all inclined to be friends
with me. But they both replied at once that, what-
ever happened, they could never forget that I was the
daughter of my father. And when I touched upon the
religious question, one of them said " this fate had
been destined to me from the beginning of the world."
" The God who has severed you and us from our
home is the same God whom all men adore and
revere. His mighty will has brought you back to us,
and we all rejoice at it. And now you and your
children will stay with us henceforth, will you not ? "

Proofs of affection and love like these, and the deep
and indescribable joy of beholding my native land

RE- VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 305

once more, will always associate that voyage with
some of the sweetest hotirs of my life.

But the hour for parting came at last and found me
oh ! so loath to say a long farewell once more to the
few but very dear friends I had still. They fully
shared my grief, and perhaps I could convey its ex-
pression best to my readers, and thereby put a fitting
close to my book, by giving the English rendering of
a letter that they jointly sent to me after I had reached
Germany again. But its sweet tenderness and origi-
nality I cannot reproduce: —

You went from us "without a word at parting ;
This has torn my heart, and filled my soul with sorrow.
O ! that I had clung to your neck when you departed hence,
You might have sat on my head, and walked on my eyes t

You live in my heart, and when you went

You poured grief into my soul such as I ne'er felt before ;

My body is wasted, and my tears fall fast

One after one down my cheek like the waves of the sea.

Lord of the universe, let us meet again ere we die !

Be it only one single day before death.

If we live, we meet again ;

When we are dead, the Immortal One remains t

! that I were a bird to soar to thee on wings of love ;
But how can the bird soar whose wings are clipped ?

In the foregoing pages I have endeavoured to draw a
picture of Oriental life and its customs, especially with
regard to life at Court, and the position of woman in
the East. Some of the subjects contained in this book
may be thought to possess less general interest Vs^

806 memoibs op an Arabian princess.

as part of the whole, my description would have been
incomplete without them. It must he remembered
that I have not been writing a novel or a tale of
fiction, but the faithful recollections connected with
the life of my native land in all its phases.

If I have naturally felt tempted to exalt such of our
customs and institutions which, in my opinion, are
deserving of commendation, I have, on the other hand,
never endeavoured to excuse or disguise others which,
in the eyes of more highly-cultured nations at least,
may justly be ridiculed or thought objectionable ; and
if, in drawing comparisons between foreign and
Eastern customs, I have not shrunk from speaking
my mind openly and candidly, and have sometimes
sent home a shaft, I may aver, in justice to myself,
that I have by no means spared myself, but have
readily and frankly admitted the errors into which I
fell.

Even in this century of railroads and rapid commu-
nication, eo much ignorance still exists among Euro-
pean nations of the customs and institutions of their
own immediate neighbours, that one can hardly
wonder how little is actually known about those of
races far removed. The ablest and most conscientious
writer must always, to some degree, fall short of
giving a perfectly precise and faithful picture of a
foreign nation; and, in the case of an Eastern nation,
he will, of course, find himself heavily handicapped
out of all proportion when family and domestic life
generally is so jealously guarded from the gaze of the
outer world.

Having been born and bred in the East, I am in a

RE-YISITING MY HOME AFTEB NINETEEN TEARS. 307

position to set down the unvarnished reflection of my
Oriental experiences — of its high life and its low life —
to speak of many peculiarities, and lift the veil from
things that are always hidden from profane eyes.
This, I hope, will constitute the main value of my
book, and my object will have been fully gained if I
have been able to contribute my share, and, above all,
if I have succeeded in removing many misconceptions
and distortions current about the East.

My task is done — and, in conclusion, it only re-
mains for me to say farewell to my kind readers, who
have followed me through these pages, and who, I
trust, will always bear a friendly memory for one
whose life has already gathered so rich a store of
changes and vicissitudes.

. h

•

RE-VISITING MY HOME AFTER NINETEEN YEARS. 299

il Mtoni, and was at the same time appointed by the
Sultan to say prayers over the tomb of Abd il Sund,
whom the latter had so bitterly persecuted all his
life.

The last remark struck me particularly, for I was
quite well aware of the heartless and yet childish
conduct of Bargasch to Ali ben Sund, and to my
elder sister Raje. Raje, a real sister of Ali's mother,
removed to Zanzibar from Mesket at a pretty ad-
vanced age some years ago, and was provided by the
Sultan with a house and an annuity. It was but
natural that his aunt Raje went to nurse him, when
Ali ben Sund, who, without any cause whatever, had
incurred the bitter hatred of Bargasch, was lying
mortally ill at Bet il Mtoni, having no wife or
children to look after him. But Bargasch disapproved
of the step she had taken — he was perfectly unable to
understand or to appreciate any service of charity, or
to show compassion. To make her feel his* wrath, he
not only withdrew her annuity, but actually, without
any compensation, deprived his aged sister, who was
old enough to be his mother, of her home. He did
not appear at Ali's burial, a disregard hardly ever
shown even to an enemy. And now he has prayers
said over his grave ! What unaccountable conduct !

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To xrad Boe, tut book AuJd be returned c
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